bought this today, and for the life of me i CAN NOT make it stay still in the T channel on my table saw...tried putting a washer between the flat head of the bolt and the channel, no luck.
tried various iterations of putting the thing together but there's just no way to make it stable. i'm using a standard 15 amp, 10" skil. any help anyone?
HI Carol, I would call customer service @ 1-800-447-8638 , I am sure they can help you solve the problem , have a good day , JIM !!!
its not made to fit into a t slot its made to fit into a mitre slot. if you are trying to put it into the wrong type slot that could be the problem. jock brisbane
Thanks for jumping in to help, James! Yes, Carol, please get in touch with Customer Support by calling 800-447-8638 or online: https://www.kregtool.com/customer-service/contact-us.aspx?source=1677. They are very knowledgeable and will gladly help you troubleshoot.
ok, talked to customer support this morning. no way will this device work with my standard, run-of-the-mill skil table saw :/
like many table units, the slot on either side of my blade looks like an upside down T. the bottom of the slot is exactly 3/4" wide, and the top ever so slightly narrower to prevent whatever you have riding in the slot from just popping out.
so...the "wedge" of the featherboard is exactly 3/4" wide on each side all the way down. she's a no fit...
i've read folks do all sorts of things to make it fit, from using rubber gaskets to painter's tape to help hold it in place. if the "wedges" were hard rubber instead of plastic (the kreg guy agreed lol) there would be way less of a problem.
does ANYONE out there use this featherboard?
Back in the day when I had a Skil brand tablesaw, I ran into the same problem, the miter slots are smaller than the standard size. To rectify the problem I made up my own miter slot locks. I cut a piece of hardwood that fit into the slot, drilled a hole through it, cut a kerf lengthwise through it and countersunk around the bottom of the hole. Then placed a flat head machine screw in from the bottom, placed the featherboard over the screw and tightened it from the top. As I tightened the nut from the top the flat head screw forced the wood to separate and hold tight against the sides of the miter slot. I don't have the homemade locks anymore, since I upgraded my tablesaw a couple years ago. I'll put together a drawing to help explain what I did and attach it to this post later.
Hope this helps, Don
Here is a drawing of the lock I built.
I just looked at a picture of the Kreg featherboard. Another option to make it work in your tablesaw is to remove the two pieces I've marked with an arrow and cut/sand the width down until you get a tight fit in your miter slot.
wow, don, thanks so much for your reply!
actually, i attacked the "wedges" with sandpaper to start but it's really hit or miss. i REALLY like your idea of using hardwood "locks" instead. just so happens i have a piece of hard rock maple sitting around the garage with my saw's name all over it :)