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I am in the planning stages of building kitchen rollout shelving. The shelving will use 22" full extension slides and measure approximately 27" w x 22" D x 4" to 6" H. The slides are rated at 100 lbs. I would appreciate advise on what materials to use particularly the thickness of the materials should I actually put something close to 100 pounds in one of these. The cabinets were commercially built and used pre-finished 3/4" plywood for the boxes and the frames were also plywood with veneer edges. My tool availability is limited to a Kreg Jig, skill saw and commercial guide rail. I have a couple of clamps and framing square as well. So I will be using butt joints and the Kreg jig for the project.

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Drawer front, sides and back 3/4 hardwood plywood.

(baltic birch best for drawer construction.  Alternate: oak or birch).

Bottom 1/2'' MDF---1/2'' up from the perimeter of the bottom.

Add 2 support runners, 1/2 x 3, front to back, evenly spaced, under the drawer bottom panel---so as to give the shelf additional support---(reduce sagging).

Add grooves in the drawer front, sides and back to receive the drawer bottom panel.

Add glue to all the joined members.

The drawer bottom will support 100 lbs, evenly distributed.

Stronger joints will be achieved by using dado and rabbet joinery in the drawer front, sides, back.

Insert the bottom panel in a dado joint.

The joinery will give larger surface gluing areas.

Dados and rabbets can be made using your Skill saw or ''straight back saw"---use a straight edge guide, to guide the saw.

When using a straight back saw, the material between the saw kerfs can be removed using a chisel.

PS---making dados and rabbets is easier using a router.

A trim router is an economical power tool, and very useful.

 

Thank you for your response.

I was thinking that 1/2" for sides would be ok, but I will use the 3/4" baltic birch instead. Is the use of 1/2" MDF for the bottom because of the costs or because of its stability? I also thought that the Kreg pocket system joinery was supposed to eliminate the need for groves etc. Have you not found that to be so with the drawers?

I plan a trip to the local wood working store for screws and will check on a router as well while I am there. I have sixteen drawers to make so trying to get the dados cut with a skill saw will present quite a challenge I suspect.

Do you recommend using veneer tape on the top edges or just sanding them? I have not used baltic birch before, but from the birch plywood I see at the HD the appearance and voids seem like they would need something added.

I prefer to use 1/2'' MDF for drawer bottoms---maintains flatness and stability.

The thin top layer veneer of the plywood, will wear thru quicker in a drawer bottom and slivers will appear.

 

The bottom panel should be retained in a groove, around the perimeter, for a more solid construction---

resulting in the drawer being ‘’square’’.

Personally, I avoid using veneers on drawers.  Overtime, veneers separate, without adequate bonding materials and techniques.

If making the drawers, using Kreg pocket hole joinery, I suggest gluing the joints.

Thanks Ken,

I had not thought about slivers and wear through on the drawer bottoms. I will follow your suggestions and get a router to square things up in the assembly process for the bottoms and make sure to glue everything together. I'll forgo the veneer and aim for a good finish sanding applying a poly finish to match the natural look of the cabinet interiors.

As a new Internet user and stumbling through forums and posts etc, I will attempt to put some picts of them when I finish. Thanks, again for your help.

You're welcome, Gary.

Thanks for your timely response.

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