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I have a large oak oval piece that is laminated with glue. It's a vertical door that can't be removed from it's hinges

Which jig do I use to drill a hole in the middle where a clamp won't reach?

Thanks for any help.


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Gonna need some more information on this one. First off, why a pocket hole in the middle of a door??? How about a pic?

:) well it's a very old oak toilet seat lid that has come apart at on of the seams.

The screws that hold the hinges are rusted, so I can't get it off the toilet.

I wondered if there is a jig that would work out in the middle of the oval? 

Hey Den::  I live in Elk Grove, I noticed you are in Sacramento. First person from our area I have come across. I really enjoy my Kreg Jig. What a great invention n
I would take the drill guide with the three holes and place it on the bottom side of the seat figure out what thickness you need. Then take a small wood screw & screw the guide in place on the bottom of the seat. 

Den said:

:) well it's a very old oak toilet seat lid that has come apart at on of the seams.

The screws that hold the hinges are rusted, so I can't get it off the toilet.

I wondered if there is a jig that would work out in the middle of the oval? 

I didn't realize that that jig could be used that way. I'll take it out of the case and look at it again. I knew the jig could be screwed to a board. I'll check it out thanks

I often use my old Kreg Rocket jig screwed, rather than clamped to a workpiece.  Usually because clamping would be difficult, but sometimes when the extra screw hole hurts nothing it's just quicker and easier than clamping.  To me it is one of the strong points of yet another tool which Kreg should never have discontinued.

You dont need to screw it down just clamp it and remember about the extension

Well thinking that the there is the possibility of getting pinched in the back door would be one thing but getting poked with a screw in the same location could get very annoying, so  I think I would fix it right.

 I would drill out the rusted screws and remove the seat.  Take it to the shop and cut the split apart and repair it with dowels, a spline  or biscuits and reglue the seat seam. 

 Replace the old screws with either stainless screws or at least brass screws. 

Now that would be a oueeeeeeeeeeeeeee SPL

Thinks for all the replies.

Here's where I'm at... There is a split, 2 pieces of wood.

I have the jig, marked A B C and it does clamp "freehand" to the boards.

The boards ar 7/8ths inch thick.

Where do I clamp the jig in realation to the crack and the 7/8 mark on the jig?

Using the pocket jig i would place it on the wood with the setting for 7/8 in and mark its place on the underside of the seat. Use the crack as the theoretical end of the board and line up the gauge accordingly. Then remove the gauges from the sides of the jig so it will lay flat (They slide all the way off) and place it back on your marks and screw it down. HTH

Thanks sgt, I believe I have it now.

I see the total distance from the crack to the 7/8 inch mark (end of the jig) is 4-3/8th inch.



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