Kreg Owners' Community

Hello All, 

 

I am new to wood working and the Kreg system, That being said I have a question.

How close to the end of the board can drill a hole. I would like to be at  @15/16.

 

I am making a set of cornhole boards and want to make sure the edges of the top picece of plywood is securly fastended in the corners.

 

The frame is made of 1x4 Poplar, fastened 90°

 

Thanks

Gary

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Steve, 

 

Do you do this in conjunction with the pocket holes.? 

No, this is with conventional screws going straight through the wood to a support underneath. I use the kreg gig to predrill the holes for the kreg screws. Set the kreg gig to the settings according to the settings recommended by kreg. The drill holes should not go completely through the wood piece you are drilling. Be sure to check the setting on the drill bit, also. I have not had a problem with kreg gig as long as the recommended settings were used.
I use conventional screws on some joints and the kreg gig on other joints. If the screw will penetrate the wood at a perpendicular position, 90 degree position, a strong joint will result. If the screw will penetrate the wood along the grain, into the end on the wood piece, the joint will be weak. A kreg joint will strengthen this type of joint. I use only one method on a joint. I also use the kreg joint when I want the screw to be hidden.

My main reason for using Kreg joints on this project , is i didnt not want any fasterners on the top of the board.  I will be Joining 1"x4" poplar to 1/2" Birch Plywood

 

Normally I would drill thru the top, countersink the hole, fill with putty and paint. This project i want to stain the set, and didnt want to plug all the holes,

 

Kreg recommends i keep hole @2" for the goard edge, and since it will be perpendicular to the grain I may have problems.

 

What makes i split ?

I am cringing at the thought of plywood. Join the the 1" x 4"s into a box with the kreg screws on the inside of the frame. Then drill for the kreg joints to attach the top to the 1"x 4" square frame. You may have to adjust the location of your kreg screws. I would place them 9-12 inches apart. Since the plywood is 1/2" thick, set the kreg jig for 1/2" inch. Be sure to measure the thickness of the wood, to be sure you know what the thickness is. 1" x 4" nominal dimension is really 3/4" X 3 1/2" actual dimension. The kreg jig uses actual dimensions. So, you also need to know the actual thickness of the plywood, which usually is measured in actual dimensions.

Are Kreg joints on the outside a Bad Idea?  Usuall I screw and countersink from the outside.  I can place a block to locate it when screwing ?

 

I was planning making the box first, then attaching the top plywood. In the Kreg video is says drill for 3/4 and use screws for 1/2 ?

 

Thanks for the help steve, i am learing a lot from all this

I have another thought, you can join the top with steel angle irons, say 2" angle irons, use 7/16" inch screws, the screws should not show on the top. Plywood is pretty stable, should not warp twist or bend, so the top should be pretty stable. One thing, I don't like about plywood is if the plywood edges are exposed, you need to cover the edges with something. I would make a wood edge for it, mitered on the corners, either use a lap joint or a groove so the plywood would be completely enclosed.

Gary Nalen said:

My main reason for using Kreg joints on this project , is i didnt not want any fasterners on the top of the board.  I will be Joining 1"x4" poplar to 1/2" Birch Plywood

 

Normally I would drill thru the top, countersink the hole, fill with putty and paint. This project i want to stain the set, and didnt want to plug all the holes,

 

Kreg recommends i keep hole @2" for the goard edge, and since it will be perpendicular to the grain I may have problems.

 

What makes i split ?

I was thinking about keeping all the screws hidden.

Steve said:
I have another thought, you can join the top with steel angle irons, say 2" angle irons, use 7/16" inch screws, the screws should not show on the top. Plywood is pretty stable, should not warp twist or bend, so the top should be pretty stable. One thing, I don't like about plywood is if the plywood edges are exposed, you need to cover the edges with something. I would make a wood edge for it, mitered on the corners, either use a lap joint or a groove so the plywood would be completely enclosed.

Gary Nalen said:

My main reason for using Kreg joints on this project , is i didnt not want any fasterners on the top of the board.  I will be Joining 1"x4" poplar to 1/2" Birch Plywood

 

Normally I would drill thru the top, countersink the hole, fill with putty and paint. This project i want to stain the set, and didnt want to plug all the holes,

 

Kreg recommends i keep hole @2" for the goard edge, and since it will be perpendicular to the grain I may have problems.

 

What makes i split ?

Its a game, so i won't go that far.  The edges visible will be ok.

 

I should just give it a try and see what happens.  It will be a learning expeiance, I am not out that much in wood cost and labor hasnt been much.

I was just concerned about getting the plywood secured close to the cornes to prevent warping and lifting of the edges.

 

When I am building these the cobventiall way, I use dexk screws 6" apart all the way around the top, that's why there are so many pockets,  

 

Wood working is a new art for me,  

 

 

I will put the plug in the outside holes,  maybe the inside, but you wont see them while in use

 

I guess this is the fun of a progect  lol

 

Thanks Steve

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