Kreg Owners' Community

At Kreg, we make it our top priority is to ensure that our customers get real use out of their Kreg products. The tips and tricks provided in the Kreg Plus Newsletter, Kreg Jig Project Plans, educational videos on YouTube, and the forums found right here on the Kreg Jig Owners Community are all designed to add to your woodworking success.

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Please use this thread to give the Kreg Family a better idea of what you need in order to advance on your woodworking journey, and to let us know where we're succeeding so far. Thanks!

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As always, well said Jay. :)

-- Cheers!

Jay Boutwell said:

I think the most impressive thing about Kreg Tools that I have found during my twenty plus years of working with wood is the consistent manner in which Kreg Tools has continued to serve the wood worker. The manner in which Kreg tools has put their customers at the front of their interest is commendable.

I would say the best thing would be to make the markings easier to read out of the box.  I have trouble reading them at times. 

Thanks for all the great feedback! Keep it coming. We are reading all of your comments and we are paying attention! We're lucky to have great members in this community, and we're thankful every day to have great customers who are willing to share their thoughts with us. We appreciate it!


KregRep

Hi Mark,

I had the same issues.

I filled in the markings, using ''white-out'', and

some with ''white'' crayon.

Then followed by magnifiers---

for doing close-up work,

the 'ol eyes are fading.


Mark said:

I would say the best thing would be to make the markings easier to read out of the box.  I have trouble reading them at times. 

Hi would like to know if kreg have any plans for manufacturing a loose tenon jig ?Would be very useful i think for larger projects .Such as dining table construction.

Michael,

Rockler offers ''Beadlock Tenon Joinery''---

that is very effective and simple to use---

Only requires a hand drill.

Available in 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2'' sizes.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18088&site=ROCKLER

3/8" Beadlock Basic...

 Beadlock® Tenon Stock

Check it out, including the videos.

I have the beedlockproKen is right its easy to use. Worked the first time I used it. Look in review section I did a review with pictues.

Thanks gary ,i will have a look at the review .Dont know if available in the uk,however thought it would be another feather in kregs cap if they made one [ have a good week regards mick].

Gary roofner said:

I have the beedlockproKen is right its easy to use. Worked the first time I used it. Look in review section I did a review with pictues.

Hi ken i have checked out the review for the beadlock jig ,looks impressive.Could be on my christmas list ,however the tax we pay here in the uk on goods from across the pond are pretty high.Regards mick.

Ken Darga said:

Michael,

Rockler offers ''Beadlock Tenon Joinery''---

that is very effective and simple to use---

Only requires a hand drill.

Available in 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2'' sizes.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18088&site=ROCKLER

3/8" Beadlock Basic...

 Beadlock® Tenon Stock

Check it out, including the videos.

Hi ken i cannot remember if i replied to your comments on beadlock jigs its me age you know. Watched the demo looks impressive, but the import tax from the states to the uk is horrendous.I was thinking about buying a dado stack set for my tablesaw till i found out the cost.I also discovered they seem to be illegal here in the uk,[health /safety] plus the saw arbors here are made to a different size so they wont fit health/safety gone mad here .Regards Mick.

Ken Darga said:

Michael,

Rockler offers ''Beadlock Tenon Joinery''---

that is very effective and simple to use---

Only requires a hand drill.

Available in 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2'' sizes.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18088&site=ROCKLER

3/8" Beadlock Basic...

 Beadlock® Tenon Stock

Check it out, including the videos.

Mike,

The following is getting off the ''subject'' matter,

but the following is an FYI.

Re ''Beadlock Joinery".

Peruse all the reviews, on Rocklers product review.

Cuts and measurements need to be accurate.

Clamping needs to be tight.

Use a ''sharp'' marked line---0.7mm HB pencil lead works fine---

0.5mm HB pencil line is better.

(a framing carpenters pencil or lumber crayon marked line is too wide,

akin to using yard stick vs an accurate steel rule).

 

Use a brad point drill bit, for better performance.

Use a piece of masking tape, on the drill shank, to mark drilling depth---

don’t cut-off the tab on the jig, as some have suggested, so they could use a drill stop block.

 

Use a drill speed of 2000rpm, for smoother cutting.

(I get acceptable results, using 1500-1800 rpm).

 

The ¼’’ size drill jig block is ¾’’ thick---same thickness as the block for 3/8’’ size.

(Shims need to be used, when using ¼’’ size in ½’’ thick stock.

The drilled holes should be in the center of the work-piece.

NOTE: if the joined work pieces are not the same thickness, clamp the drilling jig on the intended finished side of the work-piece.  I always clamp the jig on the near side of the work-piece, so that the holes will be the same distance inward, on all surfaces.

 

TIP: Make sample test pieces---drilling and assembly---before proceeding to the finished product, so as to become familiar with it’s functions and design features.

Strive for accuracy, for optimum results.

Haste makes waste.

One learns more as they go.

 

I've made some of my own modifications, to my tools, to suit my needs.

I just had to figure it out, what works best for me.

 

The beadlock joinery system is great  for small jobs, individual builds, short production runs and small shops---

as well as for those with limited tools and skills---(you only need a drill, clamps as glue).

 

When making larger projects, such as 4x4 stock, using the beadlock joinery system, use 2 sets of ½’’ size beadlocks---each set-in from each face---front-side and back-side.  This makes for a sturdier construction.

It would be nice to make the guide on the RipCut a little bit longer to prevent saw movement at the end of the cut.

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