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Hi Ron in reference to cabinet door question, Yes 1/8 of an inch is about the correct amount.  If you are using the European hinges method you will be able to adjust the door gap to fine tune them.  When using the face frame hinge make sure you use one that had the adjustment screws built into the hinge to allow you to move door adjustments to fit your need.  Some of the cheaper European hinges do not have the hinge adjustment method so critical door widths are critical.  You must be certain when you build the door that you build it to close tolerances if you do not have the adjustable hinge.  One of the better face frame hinges for this use is either the blum, salice (pronounced sa-le chee) , or grass  hinge as these have worked out the best for me.

Recently you e-mailed me some photos of your new corner cabinet.  The cabinet is well built and will need two doors swinging off of a face frame.  I did note that the size was 24 inches by 24 inches and 12 inches deep.  This will make the doors very small in width being about 10 inches wide depending on the stile width.   This means that you have limited access into the cabinets interior.  Since this cabinet has no mid stile your options are to swing two  doors, one from each side, or to swing the two doors as one unit from either the right side or the left side having the doors hinged in the middle with either a piano hinge or one of the special mid hinge bi-fold hinge like salice makes.  The best option would be to use the bi-fold hinge and to use the face frame hinge that will offer you the most degrees of swing opening. (you need to get as much of the door away from the opening.  Otherwise you have a  large door stuck in your face.)  Your best option is to use a set of face frame hinges that allow you the 360 degree opening of which is what I use on lazy susan doors in combination with the bi-fold hinge set.  This will allow  you to fold the door out from the cabinet and back against the adjoining cabinets.  The other option of which is not the best, is to add a center stile that is built with a 90 degree corner to fit the already installed face frame.  You will need to be sure that you build this wide enough to allow the two doors to bypass each other when opening.  This means swinging the doors separately from each side.  There is no way you can swing the doors from each side separately without having a large gap in the center at the 90 degree bend.  If you build the doors to fit the opening you can not get the door to swing out past each other.

This is the reason that I do not recommend a 90 degree corner cabinet unless it is a large one of which you have room to add a mid stile and still have room to access the cabinet interior.   This is what causes many blind cabinets to be built in earlier years and even today where cabinet makers do not utilize the current hardware. 

The last corner cabinet build I did was one that was built at a 45 degree angle and allowed me to build two separate doors and use the large space underneath to install a large microwave , (refer to my page and it is shown in photos under my project custom kitchen cabinets)  This was the reason for doing this and it also puts the cabinet out off the wall enough to easily access the upper corner cabinet as remember in most instances you will have a larger base cabinet underneath.  That puts the upper corner cabinet up out of easy reach as you have the width of the lower base cabinet to contend with.

On building the lower corner cabinet you can get away with doing a 90 degree turn as you have a much larger cabinet to work with giving you the ability to build larger doors.  In this cabinet I recommend a wing door type of which you can build is as a lazy susan or as a open cabinet however it will require you to crawl into the cabinet to reach object in the back.

in my prior post on the community I posted in details how to build a lower corner cabinet including a cut list.  You can find it by going to my page and under my discussions, scroll down to "all discussions' enter and type in under this author : lazy susan".  You will find it on page one line 19,--  June 21, 2012 in a reply to Justin Waldron.

A word of caution:  If you are building this cabinet as a one piece then check for a method of getting it into the house.  You will need a door opening of at least 36 inches as the cabinet is 35 & 1/4 inches in height.  It might be possible to twist it through a large door but it is also deep.  Best method is through a patio door or build the box separate and build a toe kick to sit under the cabinet once it in inside the house.

Something that will allow you to easily install a corner cabinet is to use a "45 degree clip cut on the back.  It allows it to fit easier into a corner that is not square and most are not so this is a good part of the plan,  I also recommend that a back be applied to the backs of all cabinets.  Not only does it add strength to resist racking of the cabinet before it is installed but is seals the cabinets against anything like bugs and or house pest from entering into your cabinet contents.

Read also my post on the same page line 13-- March 05, 2013 reply to member Derek Gould as this has more information about lazy susans

I anyone is confused about the hinges let me know and I will enclose additional information to assist you.  I hope this helps those who are building cabinets and have questions about European hinges.  I have other post listed under European hinges  in a reply to member Tim Hadaway  page two line 13-- April 16 2014.(cabinet hardware always measured in metric)

Hi everyone, my name is Tom and I live in a suburb of Chicago. I've worked most of my life doing rough work construction. A few years back I started using the Kreg system. I've made some cabinets for my garage and some craft projects. I consider myself a novice, and glad to get to know all of you!


The jig is pretty good. I'm impressed but wasn't impressed with the circular saw guide. The locking clips failed. Good idea but needs some work.

Jay Bates, I think is the users name.

He has a great video that shows him using SketchUp.

That's where I learned to design my kitchen cabinet.

Making it, well that's a different story all together...
Azor HomeatShop said:


I have tried Sketchup a few times and find it has a steep learning curve. I have read through and performed a few tutorials, but so far I find it very time consuming. It is a great program, but complicated. Things happen that require much trouble shooting. It is free, but not easy for me.


James Waller said:
"Easy-to-use Drafting Software"

This is listed under "Other Great Links" and when you click on it, it takes you to Google's SketchUp home page. There you can download the "free version" and start using the program. There are numerous text tutorials and video tutorials to help you learn the program. Some of them you actually open up in the program and it helps you learn some of the tools. There is also lots of videos at YouTube that teaches you how to use SketchUp.

One thing I want to mention that I just read is a class on SketchUp they are having at "Popular Woodworking". If you are interested then click on the following link to read more about it.

I have personally used SketchUp to draw up my plans on some projects I have built. I can add the dimensions of all the parts and then print it out to go by while building it. Check out my photos on my page to see some of my projects that I built from plans I drew up in SketchUp.

You have ideas on things you want to build? Then give SketchUp a try, it's very easy to learn and best of's FREE!

Can I save some one's project to my favorties? I would really like to save that corner desk and try it with my kreg!!

My name is Ed. Today I accidentally stumbled into this wonderful site and hastily signed in. I find the site replete with great suggestions. Thank you all selfless members for your insights and experiences with Kreg tools. I love them all, just kindly advise me which tools every diy guy should have, I mean the must have ones

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