help with shaker style cabinet doors - Kreg Owners' Community2024-03-29T02:15:30Zhttps://kregjig.ning.com/forum/topics/help-with-shaker-style-cabinet?commentId=2900167%3AComment%3A51545&feed=yes&xn_auth=noI tried to make my own wood w…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2011-06-17:2900167:Comment:2566772011-06-17T15:03:55.474ZRory Ahttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/RoryA
<p>I tried to make my own wood window coverings for my attic windows, but I couldn't manage to devise something that would be efficient and easy to maneuver, so I gave up and chose to buy them online from this place <a href="http://www.blindsuk.net/velux-blinds.html">http://www.blindsuk.net/velux-blinds.html</a> . I am really pleased with the choice now, it is much easier like this.</p>
<p>I tried to make my own wood window coverings for my attic windows, but I couldn't manage to devise something that would be efficient and easy to maneuver, so I gave up and chose to buy them online from this place <a href="http://www.blindsuk.net/velux-blinds.html">http://www.blindsuk.net/velux-blinds.html</a> . I am really pleased with the choice now, it is much easier like this.</p> daddo cut just make sure your…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2011-06-16:2900167:Comment:2561612011-06-16T11:50:03.205ZJens Jensenhttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/JensJensen
daddo cut just make sure your insert is long enough to slip ihe last pc over it.<br></br>
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<cite>Jamie Robe said:</cite><br />
<blockquote cite="http://kregjig.ning.com/forum/topics/help-with-shaker-style-cabinet#2900167Comment162875"><div><p>Hi Tomboy,</p>
<p><br></br>I am trying to figure out how to reface my master bathroom cabinets. I am going to reuse the main cabinet (72 inches wide in a recessed nitch, so only front side shows). I am thinking of using my Kreg to try to make the doors, which if…</p>
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daddo cut just make sure your insert is long enough to slip ihe last pc over it.<br/>
<br/>
<cite>Jamie Robe said:</cite><br />
<blockquote cite="http://kregjig.ning.com/forum/topics/help-with-shaker-style-cabinet#2900167Comment162875"><div><p>Hi Tomboy,</p>
<p><br/>I am trying to figure out how to reface my master bathroom cabinets. I am going to reuse the main cabinet (72 inches wide in a recessed nitch, so only front side shows). I am thinking of using my Kreg to try to make the doors, which if I buy unfinished ones are going to run about $300! I like shaker style things. My question is hwo to go about this. Do I join the 4 outside frame pieces first, then route (can I do this by hand?) the inside back, then glue the plywood? Is the plywood just glued and not joined?</p>
<p><br/>Thanks for any advice.</p>
<p>BTW I am totally new to Kreg tools and this site - very inspiring stuff on here :-)</p>
<p>Jamie</p>
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<p><cite>TOMBOY said:</cite></p>
<blockquote cite="http://kregjig.ning.com/forum/topics/help-with-shaker-style-cabinet?commentId=2900167%3AComment%3A51537#2900167Comment86810"><div><p>Hey Christopher, here is my take on the shaker style door, though a bit rough as it is only primed right now; hopefully, you get the general idea:-) It is a very simple door with the back routed out at 1/4" with a rabbitting bit and a 1/4" panel inserted; standard 1x2 frame...I have used this style of door mainly for asthetics as I do not like alot of extra flare and decoration in my furniture (see also, medicine cabinet photo). But, it looks like you have already gotten some really great advice on this one:-) Good luck with your build! Look forward to the pics...</p>
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</blockquote> Fill holed with bondo and san…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2011-06-16:2900167:Comment:2557702011-06-16T11:46:37.384ZJens Jensenhttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/JensJensen
Fill holed with bondo and sand prime and paint
Fill holed with bondo and sand prime and paint if your painting the piece, u…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2011-06-16:2900167:Comment:2557622011-06-16T00:52:42.789ZKevin Maloneyhttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/KevinMaloney
if your painting the piece, use body filler, works great
if your painting the piece, use body filler, works great Hi Tomboy,
I am trying to fig…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2011-03-04:2900167:Comment:1628752011-03-04T14:32:09.502ZJamie Robehttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/JamieRobe
<p>Hi Tomboy,</p>
<p><br></br>I am trying to figure out how to reface my master bathroom cabinets. I am going to reuse the main cabinet (72 inches wide in a recessed nitch, so only front side shows). I am thinking of using my Kreg to try to make the doors, which if I buy unfinished ones are going to run about $300! I like shaker style things. My question is hwo to go about this. Do I join the 4 outside frame pieces first, then route (can I do this by hand?) the inside back, then glue the plywood? …</p>
<p>Hi Tomboy,</p>
<p><br/>I am trying to figure out how to reface my master bathroom cabinets. I am going to reuse the main cabinet (72 inches wide in a recessed nitch, so only front side shows). I am thinking of using my Kreg to try to make the doors, which if I buy unfinished ones are going to run about $300! I like shaker style things. My question is hwo to go about this. Do I join the 4 outside frame pieces first, then route (can I do this by hand?) the inside back, then glue the plywood? Is the plywood just glued and not joined?</p>
<p><br/>Thanks for any advice.</p>
<p>BTW I am totally new to Kreg tools and this site - very inspiring stuff on here :-)</p>
<p>Jamie</p>
<p> </p>
<p><cite>TOMBOY said:</cite></p>
<blockquote cite="http://kregjig.ning.com/forum/topics/help-with-shaker-style-cabinet?commentId=2900167%3AComment%3A51537#2900167Comment86810"><div><p>Hey Christopher, here is my take on the shaker style door, though a bit rough as it is only primed right now; hopefully, you get the general idea:-) It is a very simple door with the back routed out at 1/4" with a rabbitting bit and a 1/4" panel inserted; standard 1x2 frame...I have used this style of door mainly for asthetics as I do not like alot of extra flare and decoration in my furniture (see also, medicine cabinet photo). But, it looks like you have already gotten some really great advice on this one:-) Good luck with your build! Look forward to the pics...</p>
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</blockquote> Gary, sorry I never saw this…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2011-01-11:2900167:Comment:868202011-01-11T13:02:19.909Zjustin waldronhttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/justinwaldron
Gary, sorry I never saw this post. As a matter of fact, I just made stub tenons on the end of my rails that fit into the groove of the stiles. I also did buy the setup blocks from MLSC and the work perfect!!!! I have a router table in my tabe saw that I use, my router in it is a Milwaukee 3 1/2 hp, it's a workhorse!! <br></br><br></br><cite>Gary roofner said:</cite>
<blockquote><div>Justin Waldron this information is great. Those dark doors you made, had inspired me to want to use that design for my…</div>
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Gary, sorry I never saw this post. As a matter of fact, I just made stub tenons on the end of my rails that fit into the groove of the stiles. I also did buy the setup blocks from MLSC and the work perfect!!!! I have a router table in my tabe saw that I use, my router in it is a Milwaukee 3 1/2 hp, it's a workhorse!! <br/><br/><cite>Gary roofner said:</cite>
<blockquote><div>Justin Waldron this information is great. Those dark doors you made, had inspired me to want to use that design for my tv stand. I spent the week trying to figure out what to buy for a router table. Like I said in my post I was ready to buy from rocklers but came accross an old Sears industrial on my back porch. I had looked at your design and assumed you just cut 1/4 inch grove put 1/4 inch plywood and pocket wholed as a face frame. The information on mlcs was also very valuable. Did you buy the alignment blocks? I am going to go sears and buy some inexpesive bits and play with the sears table over the weekend. Probably will buy the table from rocklers sometime next week. I will probably take the top off the sears and mount the rockler top on it. Here is link to my post <a target="_blank" href="http://kregjig.ning.com/forum/topics/router-table-purchase">http://kregjig.ning.com/forum/topics/router-table-purchase</a>.<br/>What kind of table do you have?</div>
</blockquote> hi christopher i built two bi…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2011-01-10:2900167:Comment:867272011-01-10T21:38:40.011Zpatrick in memphis(collierville)https://kregjig.ning.com/profile/patrickrobinson
hi christopher i built two bifold shaker doors out of maple and 3/16 maple ply i used the k3 on the rails. i put blocks on the back corners to accomidate for the hinge pins.(if anyone breaks the door i can just replace the blocks ).I did no bother with filling the pocket holes as no one will ever see them w/o removing the doors.good luck patrick in memphis
hi christopher i built two bifold shaker doors out of maple and 3/16 maple ply i used the k3 on the rails. i put blocks on the back corners to accomidate for the hinge pins.(if anyone breaks the door i can just replace the blocks ).I did no bother with filling the pocket holes as no one will ever see them w/o removing the doors.good luck patrick in memphis Justin Waldron this informati…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2010-08-14:2900167:Comment:515842010-08-14T21:59:41.602ZGary roofnerhttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/Garyyroofner
Justin Waldron this information is great. Those dark doors you made, had inspired me to want to use that design for my tv stand. I spent the week trying to figure out what to buy for a router table. Like I said in my post I was ready to buy from rocklers but came accross an old Sears industrial on my back porch. I had looked at your design and assumed you just cut 1/4 inch grove put 1/4 inch plywood and pocket wholed as a face frame. The information on mlcs was also very valuable. Did you buy…
Justin Waldron this information is great. Those dark doors you made, had inspired me to want to use that design for my tv stand. I spent the week trying to figure out what to buy for a router table. Like I said in my post I was ready to buy from rocklers but came accross an old Sears industrial on my back porch. I had looked at your design and assumed you just cut 1/4 inch grove put 1/4 inch plywood and pocket wholed as a face frame. The information on mlcs was also very valuable. Did you buy the alignment blocks? I am going to go sears and buy some inexpesive bits and play with the sears table over the weekend. Probably will buy the table from rocklers sometime next week. I will probably take the top off the sears and mount the rockler top on it. Here is link to my post <a href="http://kregjig.ning.com/forum/topics/router-table-purchase" target="_blank">http://kregjig.ning.com/forum/topics/router-table-purchase</a>.<br />
What kind of table do you have? The benefit is that you don't…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2010-08-14:2900167:Comment:515462010-08-14T12:38:37.308Zjustin waldronhttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/justinwaldron
The benefit is that you don't have to fill the holes your having trouble with on the pocket screws, the set-up makes the door much much easier to glue up and all pieces fit together like a puzzle piece more or less. I guess one more thing is you save a little money on screws and time on filling holes??<br />
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<cite>Robert Melrose said:</cite><blockquote cite="http://kregjig.ning.com/forum/topics/help-with-shaker-style-cabinet#2900167Comment51539"><div>MLCS is a great place for good router bits and…</div>
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The benefit is that you don't have to fill the holes your having trouble with on the pocket screws, the set-up makes the door much much easier to glue up and all pieces fit together like a puzzle piece more or less. I guess one more thing is you save a little money on screws and time on filling holes??<br />
<br />
<cite>Robert Melrose said:</cite><blockquote cite="http://kregjig.ning.com/forum/topics/help-with-shaker-style-cabinet#2900167Comment51539"><div>MLCS is a great place for good router bits and they have videos to show you the proper use of them. One question about your doors. You said you use stub tenons on the stiles. What good would tenons do on the stiles? Maybe I'm not picturing it right in my head.<br/><br/><cite>justin waldron said:</cite><blockquote cite="http://kregjig.ning.com/forum/topics/help-with-shaker-style-cabinet?commentId=2900167%3AComment%3A51537&xg_source=msg_com_forum#2900167Comment51537"><div>I had the same issue in the very begining of using the Kreg Jig and I opted to use biscuits to join my rails and stiles afterwords. There was an issue of Fine Woodworking that did a load test on specific joints and believe it or not a biscuit fares just as well as anything else. I have enclose a picture of my shaker style doors that I'm doing for my kitchen, but I used the shaker router bit set from MLCS woodworking and they were a breeze and I'm happy with the finished product. The picture is of an unstained door, but see what you think. Also on my page there's a picture of a maple door that's very dark, the rails and stiles were used with biscuits, but an easier way that I've found here lately is to run a groove to accept panels in all the of the stock and then cut stub tenons in the stiles. Good luck, hope this was a little helpful.</div>
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</blockquote> Chris,
Here's what your finis…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2010-08-14:2900167:Comment:515452010-08-14T12:36:02.982Zjustin waldronhttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/justinwaldron
Chris,<br />
Here's what your finished pieces should look like. The rails in green and the stile is in yellow. I hope this is helpful and included is a pic of a shaker door I did out of maple with biscuits.
Chris,<br />
Here's what your finished pieces should look like. The rails in green and the stile is in yellow. I hope this is helpful and included is a pic of a shaker door I did out of maple with biscuits.