Hand Plane Bevel Angle - Kreg Owners' Community2024-03-28T12:53:17Zhttps://kregjig.ning.com/forum/topics/hand-plane-bevel-angle?commentId=2900167%3AComment%3A637712&feed=yes&xn_auth=noStephen,
The primary bevel of…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2014-08-03:2900167:Comment:6379222014-08-03T04:37:44.184ZKen Dargahttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/KenDarga
<p>Stephen,</p>
<p>The primary bevel of 25 degrees and the secondary (micro) bevel at 30 degrees.</p>
<p>(I prefer to refer to it as a "secondary" bevel. Some may use the term "micro" bevel.</p>
<p>"Micro" means small).</p>
<p><br></br>The secondary bevel is/should be on the face side of the sharpened plate.</p>
<p></p>
<p>I checked one of my hand planes and the secondary bevel is about (.008 - .010") vs 1/32", as previously noted.</p>
<p></p>
<p>A secondary bevel edge can be achieved with only a…</p>
<p>Stephen,</p>
<p>The primary bevel of 25 degrees and the secondary (micro) bevel at 30 degrees.</p>
<p>(I prefer to refer to it as a "secondary" bevel. Some may use the term "micro" bevel.</p>
<p>"Micro" means small).</p>
<p><br/>The secondary bevel is/should be on the face side of the sharpened plate.</p>
<p></p>
<p>I checked one of my hand planes and the secondary bevel is about (.008 - .010") vs 1/32", as previously noted.</p>
<p></p>
<p>A secondary bevel edge can be achieved with only a few strokes, on a sharpening steel.<br/>When done correctly, the secondary bevel is barely visible.</p>
<p></p>
<p><strong>NOTE:</strong> Only as small portion of the cutting edge is given a secondary bevel, and <strong>ONLY</strong> on the sharpened edge---<strong>NOT</strong> on the back side of the plate. <br/>The entire face of the secondary bevel <strong>MUST BE</strong> flat.</p>
<p></p>
<p>I generally use a xtra-fine (1200-1500 grit) diamond steel for this operation.</p>
<p></p>
<p>This plate is primarily used for heavy stock removal and rapid removal of material.<br/>The cutting edge of the secondary bevel will stay sharper longer.</p>
<p></p>
<p>On my low angle planes, I use a 25 degree edge---it does not contain a secondary bevel.<br/>I use this plane for shaving edge grain and plywood.<br/>This plane is adjusted so as to produce a glass like finish, with shavings of .001 - .002" thick.</p>
<p></p>
<p><strong>NOTE</strong>: Some hand planes have the plate with the bevel on the <em>top-side</em> and some planes have the bevel on the <em>under-side</em>.<br/>Check the planes you are using.</p>
<p></p>
<p>A secondary bevel, of 5 degrees from the primary bevel, is nice to have on some chisels, when a mallet is used to assist in faster removal of stock---such as in chopping, cleaning out a dado, rabbet and mortises.</p>
<p></p>
<p>BTW---a secondary bevel is advantageous on hollow-ground chisels---(chisels that have been sharpened on a wheel).</p>
<p></p>
<p><strong>PS</strong>---secondary bevels are common on some high-quality knives, that feature a double bevel edge. The secondary beveled edge stays sharper longer.</p>
<p></p>
<p><br/> <cite>Stephen said:</cite></p>
<blockquote cite="http://kregjig.ning.com/forum/topics/hand-plane-bevel-angle?commentId=2900167%3AComment%3A637912&xg_source=msg_com_forum#2900167Comment637912"><div><div class="xg_user_generated"><p>Ken,</p>
<p></p>
<p>Thank you for the information; thorough as always. Quick follow-up question: You mentioned the 30 degree micro bevel "when desired." So when would one want that micro bevel? When would having one be undesirable? </p>
<p></p>
<p>Thank you!</p>
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</blockquote> Ken,
Thank you for the infor…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2014-08-03:2900167:Comment:6379122014-08-03T01:41:52.145ZStephenhttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/Stephen729
<p>Ken,</p>
<p></p>
<p>Thank you for the information; thorough as always. Quick follow-up question: You mentioned the 30 degree micro bevel "when desired." So when would one want that micro bevel? When would having one be undesirable? </p>
<p></p>
<p>Thank you!<br></br> <br></br> <cite>Ken Darga said:</cite></p>
<blockquote cite="http://kregjig.ning.com/forum/topics/hand-plane-bevel-angle?xg_source=activity#2900167Comment637712"><div><div class="xg_user_generated"><p>I usually put a 25 degree…</p>
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</blockquote>
<p>Ken,</p>
<p></p>
<p>Thank you for the information; thorough as always. Quick follow-up question: You mentioned the 30 degree micro bevel "when desired." So when would one want that micro bevel? When would having one be undesirable? </p>
<p></p>
<p>Thank you!<br/> <br/> <cite>Ken Darga said:</cite></p>
<blockquote cite="http://kregjig.ning.com/forum/topics/hand-plane-bevel-angle?xg_source=activity#2900167Comment637712"><div><div class="xg_user_generated"><p>I usually put a 25 degree sharpened angle on my plate irons, of my hand planes, </p>
<p>whether new or reconditioned.</p>
<p>(To keep it simple, a 25 degree angle is desirable for most hand planing operations).</p>
<p></p>
<p>A honing guide is a very useful tool. </p>
<p>More accurate than eyeballing.</p>
<p></p>
<p>When it's desirable, I add a 30 degree micro bevel, on some plane irons.</p>
<p>The micro bevel sharpened edge is only about 1/32"---only the tip of the plate iron.</p>
<p></p>
<p>If after honing/resharpening a plane iron a few times with a micro bevel, the plate will have to reground/sharpened to to 25 degrees and then the 30 degree bevel added. </p>
<p></p>
<p>I also put a 25 degree angle on my "low-angle" block planes, which I use for planing end grain.</p>
<p>It can also be used for making a smooth rabbet, after rough cutting or sawing.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Larger 40-45 degree angles, are desirable for wood chisels, for chopping/rough cutting, and for mortise chisels, when pounding with a mallet.</p>
<p>The larger angle is more durable than a shallow angle, for chisels.</p>
<p></p>
<p>For paring chisels, I use a lower angle of 15-20 degrees.</p>
<p>I use paring chisels for making thin shaved cuts, dressing a rabbet, dado and smoothing dovetail joints.</p>
<p></p>
<p></p>
<p></p>
<p></p>
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</blockquote> I usually put a 25 degree sha…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2014-08-01:2900167:Comment:6377122014-08-01T20:23:17.488ZKen Dargahttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/KenDarga
<p>I usually put a 25 degree sharpened angle on my plate irons, of my hand planes, </p>
<p>whether new or reconditioned.</p>
<p>(To keep it simple, a 25 degree angle is desirable for most hand planing operations).</p>
<p></p>
<p>A honing guide is a very useful tool. </p>
<p>More accurate than eyeballing.</p>
<p></p>
<p>When it's desirable, I add a 30 degree micro bevel, on some plane irons.</p>
<p>The micro bevel sharpened edge is only about 1/32"---only the tip of the plate…</p>
<p>I usually put a 25 degree sharpened angle on my plate irons, of my hand planes, </p>
<p>whether new or reconditioned.</p>
<p>(To keep it simple, a 25 degree angle is desirable for most hand planing operations).</p>
<p></p>
<p>A honing guide is a very useful tool. </p>
<p>More accurate than eyeballing.</p>
<p></p>
<p>When it's desirable, I add a 30 degree micro bevel, on some plane irons.</p>
<p>The micro bevel sharpened edge is only about 1/32"---only the tip of the plate iron.</p>
<p></p>
<p>If after honing/resharpening a plane iron a few times with a micro bevel, the plate will have to reground/sharpened to to 25 degrees and then the 30 degree bevel added. </p>
<p></p>
<p>I also put a 25 degree angle on my "low-angle" block planes, which I use for planing end grain.</p>
<p>It can also be used for making a smooth rabbet, after rough cutting or sawing.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Larger 40-45 degree angles, are desirable for wood chisels, for chopping/rough cutting, and for mortise chisels, when pounding with a mallet.</p>
<p>The larger angle is more durable than a shallow angle, for chisels.</p>
<p></p>
<p>For paring chisels, I use a lower angle of 15-20 degrees.</p>
<p>I use paring chisels for making thin shaved cuts, dressing a rabbet, dado and smoothing dovetail joints.</p>
<p></p>
<p></p>
<p></p>
<p></p> Thank you, Jay. Since I have…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2014-07-30:2900167:Comment:6373692014-07-30T02:36:30.669ZStephenhttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/Stephen729
<p>Thank you, Jay. Since I have never used a hand plane before, I will start with the 25 degree bevel, and most resources recommend that secondary bevel. Then, after some time working with it, I think I might have a better feel for my needs. I appreciate the reply. Thanks very much.<br></br> <br></br> <cite>Jay Boutwell said:</cite></p>
<blockquote cite="http://kregjig.ning.com/forum/topics/hand-plane-bevel-angle?xg_source=activity#2900167Comment636709"><div><div class="xg_user_generated"><p>Hi…</p>
</div>
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</blockquote>
<p>Thank you, Jay. Since I have never used a hand plane before, I will start with the 25 degree bevel, and most resources recommend that secondary bevel. Then, after some time working with it, I think I might have a better feel for my needs. I appreciate the reply. Thanks very much.<br/> <br/> <cite>Jay Boutwell said:</cite></p>
<blockquote cite="http://kregjig.ning.com/forum/topics/hand-plane-bevel-angle?xg_source=activity#2900167Comment636709"><div><div class="xg_user_generated"><p>Hi Stephen, I am not sure if there is a standard angle grind on the blades as it is changed between the type of wood that will be planed. On my planes I have a grind between 25 and 30 degrees and then a slight second degree on the very tip of the blade. This is in my standard block plane for hardwood. Then on my low angle plane I will use no 2nd bevel at all as I like the wood breaking at the beginning of the cut and I keep the frog pretty tight from being closed. Like I say this all changes depending on the angle of the blade setting in the plane body.</p>
<p>Sharpening of block plane irons is a scientific venture and everyone is different with opinions. I can just tell your that this is what I aim for when sharpening my blades. I only use them on finish work where I do not was the roughness of even the 220 grit sand papers.</p>
<p> Now in a plane that I would use for heavy cutting then the angle will approach about a 40 degrees. I seldom use these but that angel works for me.</p>
<p>If you are restoring one of which I would not be using but for show then I would do some research on the plane and find an answer from that. All planes that I have I alter them by grinding the sole and smoothing up the throat and polishing and regrinding the angles.</p>
<p>Sounds like a good learning experience to me. </p>
<p></p>
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</blockquote> Hi Stephen, I am not sure if…tag:kregjig.ning.com,2014-07-28:2900167:Comment:6367092014-07-28T14:34:37.826ZJay Boutwellhttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/JayBoutwell
<p>Hi Stephen, I am not sure if there is a standard angle grind on the blades as it is changed between the type of wood that will be planed. On my planes I have a grind between 25 and 30 degrees and then a slight second degree on the very tip of the blade. This is in my standard block plane for hardwood. Then on my low angle plane I will use no 2nd bevel at all as I like the wood breaking at the beginning of the cut and I keep the frog pretty tight from being closed. Like I say this all…</p>
<p>Hi Stephen, I am not sure if there is a standard angle grind on the blades as it is changed between the type of wood that will be planed. On my planes I have a grind between 25 and 30 degrees and then a slight second degree on the very tip of the blade. This is in my standard block plane for hardwood. Then on my low angle plane I will use no 2nd bevel at all as I like the wood breaking at the beginning of the cut and I keep the frog pretty tight from being closed. Like I say this all changes depending on the angle of the blade setting in the plane body.</p>
<p>Sharpening of block plane irons is a scientific venture and everyone is different with opinions. I can just tell your that this is what I aim for when sharpening my blades. I only use them on finish work where I do not was the roughness of even the 220 grit sand papers.</p>
<p> Now in a plane that I would use for heavy cutting then the angle will approach about a 40 degrees. I seldom use these but that angel works for me.</p>
<p>If you are restoring one of which I would not be using but for show then I would do some research on the plane and find an answer from that. All planes that I have I alter them by grinding the sole and smoothing up the throat and polishing and regrinding the angles.</p>
<p>Sounds like a good learning experience to me. </p>
<p></p>