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When create a face frame with bead detail and Inset door, I used 1 1/2 inch for all the face frame, that mounted to 3/4 plywood. I have build a three cabinet that is 22 inch wide and 31 inch tall 12 inch depth. then the inside of the cabinet do I make the face frame to accept inset door. I believe that i have read that's its 1/4 on both side of the frame.

Face  frame

that would be 22 - (1 1/2 *2 =3)=19 + 1/2 =19 1/2 ? is this correct?

What type of hinges and plate would you uses for keep the door inset? I have bought these model of hinges and plates, but not sure if they are the right ones

175L819180 One-Piece Wing Mounting Plate

71B375180 110° Clip Top Blumotion Hinges

173H710180 Cam Mounting Plate

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no help

Hello Leo, I see that no one wanted to take time to write about this type of project.  Actually the inset door and or drawer cabinet are not hard to figure but you must be very accurate in how you build everything so that you can control the drawer and or door reveals  (gap) the same around the face frame.  It is the hall mark of a cabinet maker due to it's difficulty of building.  Everything must be square and all cuts consistent and assembles must be accurately done on each corner and joints. 

From what I believe you have from your description it a face frame mounted to 3/4 inch thick cabinet carcass.  The height and depth and physical size does not matter as long as the openings are square.  As for building the face frame I build it out of 3/4"  or actually 13/16 inch thick lumber and make the inter stiles and rails at 1and 1/2 inch width with the exception of the top and bottom rails.  These will be determined by the style of top you are adding and where of not you want a skirt at the bottom.  I will normally cut the top rail at 2 &1/2" wide and the bottom at 3" inches as this combination make the cabinet or chest astatically correct in appearance.   The bottom rail can change depending on where or not you are building a toe kick into the chest or cabinet.  The outside stiles I cut at 2 inches. 

I see that you are going to build it with a bead around the doors.  Are you going to build the face frame and then add the beads?  if you are then this changes the total picture as the beads added are usually made out of 1/4 inch thick material and glue and nailed on.  This means that you can cut the inter stiles and the rails at one inch with the exception of the top rail and the lower rail.  The reason being is that you will be adding on a total of 1/2 inch to each inter rail and the center stile or stiles depending on the number of the doors or drawers you want on the cabinet.  That being said that means that you should now make the outer stiles at 1 and 3/4 inches wide.

As for door hinges it appears that you are wanting to use the European style of which is a good choice as European hinges move the hinge side of the door inwards toward the middle of the opening.  The spring loaded ones are the best as they keep the doors closed.   The thing to remember is that the hinge action will have to be towards the front in order for it to open.  That means that any face frame mounting is out the question and you will have to use the hinge with an arm that reaches in and attaches to the carcass of the cabinet.  You can get the ones that clip onto a mounting plate.   I am not familiar with the hinge numbers that you listed but can tell you that the one that mentions the 110 degree is one that opens 10 degrees past the 90 degree so would wrap outward putting the front of the door at 10 degrees past the 90 degree opening.

The hinges that I use are from Salice  (salachie  is how it is pronounced).  The ones that work are called full cranked hinge or AKA full inset.  They mount to the carcass case and use a clip.  They are adjusted to inset the door by how far back you set the mounting plate.  They have find adjustment screws that allow you to adjust then  a. in and out, b up and down, and tip in and out.    The are concealed and mounting to the door is by a 35mm cup bored into the door stile.

Not knowing your tooling or where or not you have the Kreg beading tool or not but I do mine on a table saw cutting the notches with a notch cutter and a simple table saw sled and then bead the stock using a simple mounted router and beading tools.  What this does is puts the bead on the rails and stiles and allows you to assemble the face frame using two face frame screws and glue.  Like I told you that the method of how you build the face frame will cause the width to differ as the beaded face frames that I build requires the inter stock to be 1 5/16 inches wide.   If I build one that is not beaded then I use the sizes that I quoted above.  If you are interested in how I build beaded face frames feel free to contact me.  In my projects on my page is 12 drawer inset chest of which I build in the beaded face frame.  There is no difference in a door that is inset as the opening is made the same but leaving out the rails to make the opening for the doors.  First you build the chest carcass then the face frame and then the doors.  Cut the doors a little bit over the size of the door opening and then size them using a table saw and or a jointer.  I leave the gap at about 1/8 inch around the door and the face frame opening.  Once the door is sized then bore the hinge cups, screw in the hinge and set the door into place.  use even cut wedges to wedge the door and then place the hinge arm and clip against the case and attach.  You will most likely need to insert spacers between the hinge arm and the side of the case.

 If you look at the dresser that is in my project there is also a link at the beginning of the project folder that is under lined.  it will take you to a slide show showing you how I built the chest.   If you are interested in the tooling you can find them on line at www.sommerfeldtools.com and look for the beaded face frame system.

I will send you another reply in a few that will give you the full slide shows of two chests of drawers,  I think it will enlighten you as to the beaded inset system that I use.  The prices for the tooling is actually very moderate considering that it makes excellent frames with beautiful beads and no fussing with the router setting.  The joinery is tight and absolutely no wood filler needed.  Take care and sorry you could not get any help from the community.

That perfect Jay, it give me a better understanding of build cabinets, I was read the KREG manual in build cabinets it  mentioned for the stile and rail they should be the same size 2 inch for outside the cabinet, is that normal in build cabinet doors 2 1/2 for the top and 3 inch for the bottom, would the side be 2 1/2?

Inset rail and stiles you would recommend using 1 3/4? I did cut the bead 1/4 in and pin nailed to the cabinet inside.

thank you clarifying the mistress of cabinet design 



leo said:

That perfect Jay, it give me a better understanding of build cabinets, I was read the KREG manual in build cabinets it  mentioned for the stile and rail they should be the same size 2 inch for outside the cabinet, is that normal in build cabinet doors 2 1/2 for the top and 3 inch for the bottom, would the side be 2 1/2?

Inset rail and stiles you would recommend using 1 3/4? I did cut the bead 1/4 in and pin nailed to the cabinet inside.

I'm finishing the cabinet in white, what would you recommend for white paint and prime to give it that professional look?

thank you clarifying the mistress of cabinet design 

You are very Welcome Leo.
Leo, yes the thing with inset doors and or drawers you want to keep the rails and stiles smaller as since there is no overlay of doors and drawers you gain more cabinet room as well as making the cabinet look more eye appealing and also remember that you will be adding a 1/4 inch width on each side of the inter rails and stiles and a 1/4 width to the out side stiles and rails. 

Go to You Tube and down load the wood working videos of Marc Sommerfeld.  This guy is a master of building cabinets and will give you an excellent overview is everything from building a carcass for a cabinet, to rounded and angled cabinets, door building of all kinds.  He and I build very similar and I think you will learn a few tricks.  If you wish I can share a lot with you if you wish to e-mail me at my home e-mail of   salemcode@comcast.net  See there is many different methods of building cabinets and not all apply to every cabinet you find your self wanting to build.  As for paint I have used white lacquer that is catalyzed as well as automotive lacquer and then the normal enamel.  If you are building with white melamine then the color you want to look for is "Appliance white'  It is about the best for a match.   Enjoy your work.
leo said:

That perfect Jay, it give me a better understanding of build cabinets, I was read the KREG manual in build cabinets it  mentioned for the stile and rail they should be the same size 2 inch for outside the cabinet, is that normal in build cabinet doors 2 1/2 for the top and 3 inch for the bottom, would the side be 2 1/2?

Inset rail and stiles you would recommend using 1 3/4? I did cut the bead 1/4 in and pin nailed to the cabinet inside.

thank you clarifying the mistress of cabinet design 

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