Depends completely on the dimensions of the solid wood edge and your profile. But using pocket screws for "banding" all of the ply in this project sounds like a lot of work to me. Consider iron-on edging, or thinner edging attached with glue, a long caul, and a couple clamps. Or, 23-gauge headless pins for "clamps." If you're edging is thick (1" or more), you can certainly use pocket screws. But if your ply and edging aren't cut perfect, you can wind up with gaps between them depending on the spacing of your pocket holes. If it were me, I would cut my edging slightly thicker than the plywood so it doesn't have to line up perfectly, glue it on, clamp it up, come back the next day, then run a flush trim bit over it to true it up with the plywood. You can then put whatever profile you want on it without fear of the joint failing or hitting a screw.
For solid wood edge banding, there are special router bits that will cut grooves in both the plywood and wood banding. Here is an example. You then glue the banding on and route it safely.
I did a practice edge band on a portable work table I made used 3/4 material for the edge band and used my Kreg jig to attach it then used a 1/4" rounding over bit in my router and had no trouble at all. So if you don't go to deep you should be OK just be careful and take a little at a time.
Look into biscuit joinery, for this type of application.
I use 3/4 edge banding all the time with no problem, I just use the 1/2" setting on the jig with 1" Screws.
the hold end up a little off center but with the shorter screw it holds the edge in place nicely.
same thing for face frames.