Kreg Owners' Community

Hi,

I've been using my Kreg Jig to build some basic shelving and tables for garage and workshop. But tomorrow I'm getting a beautiful brand new Bosch 4100 table saw! And I want to build a variation on the table in the Kreg DVD - Pocket Hole Solution to Tables.

Most of it seems fairly straight-forward, except for the legs. The video shows how the legs are made up of two boards, (1x3s I think), that get laminated together, (i.e., glued up face to face), in order to make the desired size for the legs. But it skips over the actual doing of this part. (The presenter just says, "Here's the legs made up of these boards, etc.")

I'm not sure how to do this and get them to line up and get clamped and not slip all over. (And to make them perfect.) I do not have a jointer or a planer. (Though I may get a hand planer.) I suppose I can maybe use my router table as a jointer if I have to, but probably only take off maybe 1/32" or less at a time. (Actually, router bit probably too small for this.) YouTube obviously has tons of woodworking videos, but I can't seem to search out just how to do this. I've got a relatively small collection of basic clamps of course.

Any ideas please? I've got to build a nice Oak sofa table for my wife to help justify the cost of the table saw!   : )

Thanks for any suggestions,

Scott

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Scott,

There are several ways to solve this problem, but one I used before I had a shop full of clamps works like this. Drive several small brads into one of the surfaces to be glued. Just drive them partially in, leaving some sticking up. Then clip the end off about an 1/8th inch above the surface. Now. when you put the two pieces together and clamp them together they can't slip around.

However, this isn't a good solution if you will be sawing or turning the glued piece unless you are careful with the brad placement.

Sounds like a great simple idea. All I'm going to do post glue up is sand, maybe route round overs on the corners, and perhaps a small kerf slightly in from sides per the video. (looks like nice design.)

But if I - as you suggest - just take good care with the brad placement this should work out.

Thanks for tip!

Scott,

Join the two faces together, using glue and clamping the boards in both directions.

To avoid slippage between the surfaces, I'd use lead shot vs brads.

Lead shot is made of soft lead.  The lead will embed into the wood.

Placed a shot about an inch in from each corner.

#9 lead shot can be obtained from a reloading supply store.

or

Fly fishing tackle supply shops sell small soft lead shot---

anglers use it to add to tippets.  

Use the smallest shot you can find.

Brads are made of steel, and will damage a planer blade or other cutting tools.

Interesting idea Ken. Seems that stuff is sold mostly in big bags. I don't reload, so maybe instead I'll just get some shells and take them apart for a little amount. Just shoot up the rest when I get around to it.

I'm not intending to use tools into the parts that I'd have a little bit of 'help' holding them in place, but since you never know, or if I were to slip and go a bit deep with a final planing, probably a safer idea.

Scott,

You can also make snippets from thin dia soldering wire.

Small/thin  diameter soldering (lead) wire is available from electronics stores.

Use diagonal cutting pliers to make snippets---

cut off a short piece about 1/32-1/16" long.

Diagonal cutting pliers will make a "V" cut edge, which will allow the snippet to grip into the wood.

Sometimes the best way to solve a problem is to avoid it! While I want to learn smart techniques and get better and doing things, when I went to pick up the wood for the project today, it so happens the place I bought from had nice oak 2x4s in stock. Nice, solid 2x4s for legs.

So I'm going to see how this will look. The legs will be a little beefier, or maybe I'll just rip them down a little. Either way, easier to rip an inch off then do the glue up!

Scott,

You were lucky to find oak 2x4 stock.

Solid oak 2x4 stock is not that common, and will be very expensive.

It's more economical to make glue-ups of 1x stock, then cut/finish to the desired size.

(1/2" stock can also be glued up).

When glue-ups are made, you want a minimal visible parting (glue) line.

Use slow-setting glue---spread the glue evenly---and clamp in place.

Arrange the pieces to get the best grain match when you prepare to glue up.

Make a dry-fit of the pieces, to achieved to desired results, and mark the surfaces---use a colored (yellow, red, or blue) lumber crayon.  (Colored chaulk can also be used).

Make Your Mark

Make some sample glue-up pieces, so as to get a feel for what you want to achieve.

Spread a thin film of glue on one surface---

slide the piece a short distance to make a even bond---

then press/clamp together.

Spreading the glue evenly can be accomplished by a roller, stiff bristle brush, or the like.

(stiff bristle brush can be made from an old 1" wide paint brush---cut the bristles down to approx 1" below the ferrule).

After 10-15 minutes, "scrape off" any glue squeeze-out, using a card scraper.

Do this before the glue dries completely.

Then followed by using undiluted white vinegar on a rag works to dissolve wood glue from the surfaces.


After the glue dries and the clamps are removed, the surfaces can be sanded or planed to achieve a smooth surface.

 (A hand smoothing plane is very effective---make very thin shavings).

"Dissolving wood glue"

Heed Jay Boutwell's comments.

http://kregjig.ning.com/forum/topics/dissolving-wood-glue?commentId...

It was expensive. But worth it for me for the less effort. The project is coming along nicely. I'm taking pics along the way and will post them. The DVD is now highly amusing to me in that it took the presenter maybe 1/2 an hour to do what will take me the equivalent of a whole day! (Actually, it'll be maybe a full day all-in in terms of work, but maybe 3 - 4 days over time as I'm doing staining, etc., and I'm doing the staining prior to final assembly.)

Either way, appreciate the tips as I'm sure I'll need to do face to face glue ups in the future. I had almost zero problems doing the edge glue-up followed by the Kreg screws. Which was surprising as this was my first time doing this. ONE important lesson I learned... I could really use an extended/longer clamp. For the edges, it was of course trivial to put clamps on the ends. But I'm using 1x6 boards so they were just a little longer than the clamps I had. I ended up clamping some boards together to sandwich it, which mostly worked. One spot was a bit off, but it was close enough that sanding fixed it.

Hard to explain some of this without pics, but will post them when I get further along with project.

Thanks!

Scott

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