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Anybody have insight into the Bosch 4100DG-09 table saw? I have a garage shop. Portability would be nice, but I am concerned about accuracy. I have searched high and low and can't find anything written about fine tuning this saw. Any help would be appreciated. Hoping to buy this weekend.

Tim H

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I have the 4100 (not the digital one) and been using it for a year. I have had no problems with it whatsoever but I'm not a "perfectionist", most of the stuff I build is for me and so it doesn't need to be "perfect", just close enough. I like that when I'm not using it I can fold it up and it won't take of much space at all, but if it is in the way I can just roll it outside.

As for tuning it you can find plenty of videos on You Tube for tuning table saws, as it pretty much pertains to almost any tablesaw. I probably need to fine tune mine since I havn't in quite a while.

Thanks James,

I looked on the tube for videos specific to the 4100 and only found a couple that had nothing to do with alignment, and you are right, most saws adjust the same.....I think for my needs I have decided to go a little bigger. I am going to go with the Rigid r4512. It is $200 cheaper, which lets me get the new blade, the dampner, and still have some money to build a clamp table.

James Waller said:

I have the 4100 (not the digital one) and been using it for a year. I have had no problems with it whatsoever but I'm not a "perfectionist", most of the stuff I build is for me and so it doesn't need to be "perfect", just close enough. I like that when I'm not using it I can fold it up and it won't take of much space at all, but if it is in the way I can just roll it outside.

As for tuning it you can find plenty of videos on You Tube for tuning table saws, as it pretty much pertains to almost any tablesaw. I probably need to fine tune mine since I havn't in quite a while.

It's funny but when I brought my Kreg Jig K3 back in 2009 from Lowe's I also brought a portable table saw. For one reason or another I took it back before even opening the box, maybe I felt I didn't really need it at that time.

Later I ordered a Jet saw online, it came UPS, I opened it, put it together and was ready to go or so I thought. I had brought a dado blade set before this arrived and a couple of inserts (one for dado cutting and a zero-clearance one). Well to my surprise the inserts didn't fit the slot on the table, so I send it back.

So I did without a table-saw thinking I really didn't need one, after all I had a miter saw and a circular saw. That was until a year or so ago when I brought my 4100 (tax money made it possible) and now it really helps, especially on projects requiring 1x2, I just rip up some 2x4's.

What I do need to make is some jigs (like a crosscut sled) for better, safer cutting.

I wish you luck with your tablesaw and hope it meets your demands.

Both, Bosch and Rigid are nice saws.

  I see both in use---mostly by job site workers, doing framing, rough construction, and the like.

The folding stands, offer a very handy feature---nice feature for mobility, and fold-up and store out of the way.

  Either is suitable for use in a small shop---take into account, the area they take up, when storing folded.  OR, leave them up, use them as a work table, by adding a readily removable portable work top.

  Both saws feature long arbor shafts, to accommodate ¾’’ wide dado blades.

  The table surface area are not large enough to cut larger pieces; however, portable extensions can be made to suit your needs.

Use a roller extension off the back, for ripping longer boards.

Add a removable side extension, on the left side, to accommodate wider stock.

  For accurate cutting, make a suitable size cross-cut sled.

  A removable fence extension, approx. 6’’ high, can be added---bolted to the existing fence.  A fence extension is a very handy feature for machining many objects, as well as when using a feather board.

  The miter slides are not the best in the business; however, they’re more useful with a auxiliary fence.  I use a combination of a framing square and combination squares to make accurate set-ups.

  Use an accurate angle gauge, when setting up and tilting the blade to make angle cuts.

The ones on the machines, are not accurate for precision work.

 

  Bosch and Rigid both offer smaller size portable saws---without folding stands.

These take up less storage space, than the larger models---also lighter in weight---easy to carry with one hand.  Very handy to put in a vehicle for transporting.  Also very handy to move around in a job site, such as from room to room, or the like.

  I find the smaller sizes very useful in a small shop.

  The Rigid model, arbor shaft, is not long enough to facilitate dado blades.

  I prefer the Bosch, at least I can use dado’s stacked up to ½’’, and make multiple pass  cuts, when needed---(I prefer to use my router with a straight edge, when making dados on larger pieces---faster and easier to step-up and make cuts---primarily because of the table size).

  Another nice thing about these smaller saws, is that, when I need to rip or cross cut a few pieces, I just lay the saw on the driveway, without setting up a separate stand.

  The smaller models make for nice ‘’grab-and-go’’ tools, which works out best for me.

  The smaller saws are great for the small shop.  I don’t need the folding stands that they offer.  I use other means---such as portable work stands.

  Both models feature a dust collection port---very nice feature---just connect a shop vac to it and ‘’suck –it-up’’

Hi Tim, I have the ridgid r4512 I love it, it's in my basement it took a  barbacue for both of my brother inlaws and a couple of friends to get it down there but it's great and the caster system can't be beat. i move it around with no problem at all. It is pretty big but not that intrusive

 

I own and have used Ryobi BT3000, BT3100, and now the Sears version of the latest incarnation of the BT3x series, 21828

Of the many features to love about the 21828 are:

  • Built in stand!! I share a 2 car garage with a 1960 Austen Healy Bug-eye Sprite up on blocks, and the ability to move the saw up/down and all around is awesome.
  • Built in router mounting! I do NOT miss having to pull the router table off its hook and dealing with it as a separate piece of equipment. My Ridgid router just stays mounted all the time - pop-it up, put my  extra fence with the router accessories on and I'm working away in 2 minutes
  • Accuracy! The Ryobi BT3x series is recognized for accuracy, and the way above average fence that locks at both the front & rear.
  • Large table - enhanced by the sliding rails, you can get a right-hand rip capacity of 33"!!
  • Built-in cross-cut sled! I love that thing
  • Terrific dust collection with a shop-vac - and the router dust collection is pretty darned good too.
  • Lots of add-on accessories available. I interchange virtually every part from the early model BT3x's with no problems - including my zero clearance plates (had to mod them a wee bit, but work dandy)
  • Tons of experienced support and help via the gang at BTCentral.com!!! Their FAQ is comprehensive and thorough
  • The stock blade isn't anything to write home about, but I put a Freud upgrade on it anyways. I use the original blade for less than finished quality ripping (i.e., out door furniture)

I was just looking at the Ridgid 4510 at HD this afternoon - just curious cause I've got one in the box, but just haven't had the occasion yet to crack it open. Maybe on my next trip to the daughter's place in NYC.


I really like the looks of its build, features & design, and especially the built-in rolling stand. Someday soon


As you can tell, I am an enthusiastic Ryobi/Sears 21828 owner

I meant sliding miter table - not a cross-cut sled

Scott said:

I own and have used Ryobi BT3000, BT3100, and now the Sears version of the latest incarnation of the BT3x series, 21828

Of the many features to love about the 21828 are:

  • Built in stand!! I share a 2 car garage with a 1960 Austen Healy Bug-eye Sprite up on blocks, and the ability to move the saw up/down and all around is awesome.
  • Built in router mounting! I do NOT miss having to pull the router table off its hook and dealing with it as a separate piece of equipment. My Ridgid router just stays mounted all the time - pop-it up, put my  extra fence with the router accessories on and I'm working away in 2 minutes
  • Accuracy! The Ryobi BT3x series is recognized for accuracy, and the way above average fence that locks at both the front & rear.
  • Large table - enhanced by the sliding rails, you can get a right-hand rip capacity of 33"!!
  • Built-in cross-cut sled! I love that thing
  • Terrific dust collection with a shop-vac - and the router dust collection is pretty darned good too.
  • Lots of add-on accessories available. I interchange virtually every part from the early model BT3x's with no problems - including my zero clearance plates (had to mod them a wee bit, but work dandy)
  • Tons of experienced support and help via the gang at BTCentral.com!!! Their FAQ is comprehensive and thorough
  • The stock blade isn't anything to write home about, but I put a Freud upgrade on it anyways. I use the original blade for less than finished quality ripping (i.e., out door furniture)

I was just looking at the Ridgid 4510 at HD this afternoon - just curious cause I've got one in the box, but just haven't had the occasion yet to crack it open. Maybe on my next trip to the daughter's place in NYC.


I really like the looks of its build, features & design, and especially the built-in rolling stand. Someday soon


As you can tell, I am an enthusiastic Ryobi/Sears 21828 owner

Well guys.....I pulled the trigger today. I decided to go with the Rigid 4512.....not quite as compact, but it will still fit when I get everything organized. I got it for $499 at the big orange. I live on the south side of town and had to go to the north side to pick it up, but fortunately traffic was not too bad getting there on a Friday afternoon...coming back was a bear. I also opted for the Diablo 60T fine finish blade. Any input would be appreciated on that as well. Should I put a damper on it...zero clearance throat plate....etc? I do appreciate all replies and happy woodworking to all of you guys.

TH

Tim,

Good choice---you'll love that machine.

A zero clearance plate is nice to have---you can make one, from MDF, or buy a blank.

Blanks are available for some table saws.

You may also want a separate insert, for making 45 degree angle cuts.

Tim, Woodcraft sells insert blanks for this saw, I made my own zero clearance insert with some plastic I got from amazon, The insert is only about an 1/8 inch thick, so it makes making one a little bit scary. I cut mine out on the bandsaw and used a flush trim bit on the router table using the original one as a template, I also use 4 of the leveling screws to hold it in place.

what I used was 1/8'' thick phenolic-grade xx sheet. it was 12''x24'' so you can make both inserts out of it

 

I've got the 4510, I would have like the 4512 but with a tight basement shop, there is no just moving it out of the way. It needs folded up and moved. If I'm just doing small stuff I can have the table saw, router table, miter saw and OSS available at the same time but that is RARE. Couldn't have gotten the 4512 down the basement in any reasonable state of assembly anyway.

A huge plus I found on the 4510 is that the trunion bolts are available from the top of the table!! Made aligning the blade and the miter slot a breeze compared to most saws I've seen. Not sure if the 4512 has that.


The trunion bolts on top would be nice....the 12 has them on the bottom, and only one access panel....to reach the ones on the front of the saw you have to go in from the back of the saw.....the one on the left, looking in is ok to reach....the one on the right provides you with a bit of a challenge.....I found the simplest way to get it was to put a 6" extension on a ratchet with the proper size allen socket and go at it. I got it adjusted close enough to do the projects that I am currently working on, but it still needs some fine tuning. I am going to have to get a saw guage....the framing square method is just not getting it quite as close as it needs to be.
John Schaben said:

I've got the 4510, I would have like the 4512 but with a tight basement shop, there is no just moving it out of the way. It needs folded up and moved. If I'm just doing small stuff I can have the table saw, router table, miter saw and OSS available at the same time but that is RARE. Couldn't have gotten the 4512 down the basement in any reasonable state of assembly anyway.

A huge plus I found on the 4510 is that the trunion bolts are available from the top of the table!! Made aligning the blade and the miter slot a breeze compared to most saws I've seen. Not sure if the 4512 has that.

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