Kreg Owners' Community

Breaker trips!!! when using Ridgid table saw and Shop Vac Grrrrrr >:(

I have this vacuum

and this saw

and when I use it for 5 mins it trips. I know its overloading the switch. So if I get an electrician to fix it what can they do? and how much will it cost?  I don't want to run an extension cord through the house.

Please Help

Pocket Holers


Views: 6706

Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

Well, your saw is 15 amp max and your vacuum is 10.5 amps. Just doing the math says a 20 amp breaker is going to  be stressed. I have the same saw with a slightly larger vacuum. I have them plugged into seperate circuits.

The best fix is to run a 50 or 60 amp 220 line to a subpanel in your shop. Then you can wire as many circuits as the subpanel will allow for. You didn't say anything about your shop. You may have two circuits available. Then it would be simply a matter of plugging one of the tools in a different recepticle. How much will it cost??? I dunno either, that's a question for your electrician. Depends on the area and the going rate for tradesmen.

Its just in my garage and both plugs on either wall are on the same circut :(

In that case, I would definately go with a sub panel. Just running another circuit will just solve the immediate issue and not allow for growth. I'm sure in the future you will at least want to add an air compressor, maybe a full size dust collector, planer, jointer..... all that stuff is gonna want to be fed.

I agree with John,  I put a subpanel in my garage.  I have 3-220v outlets, direct for 3 tools, my tablesaw, my dust collector and my planer.  I have 4 outlets on each side of my garage, total of eight, I have 4 on one breaker and 4 on another, each breaker at 20 amps.  I added a 50 amp breaker to my panel and used 6 gauge wire to my subpanel and have had no issues at all with anything in my garage.  My largest electrical draw is when I'm using my planer (3 hp) and my dust collector (2hp), never had a breaker trip. I wired everything myself except for the subpanel and adding breakers, I left that for my electrician.  One thing I will say to keep in mind is that if you ever plan on upgrading tools, the larger ones call for 220v operation and it's a good idea to plan for that now if you ever intend on upgrading in the future.  I have also noticed that if you can wire a tool for 220 that it definately makes a difference.  There is plenty of power going to the tool and you don't have to worry about the draw, bog down etc.  It's also better for the motors. 

I purchased a Sears 2 1/2hp radial saw, rated 110v back around 1983.  I plugged it in, and it promptly blew the fuses in my fuse panel.  That was with nothing else running.  I went from 15amp to 30amp fuses - same result.  Sears tech told me that the 110v rating was for a saw at running speed - at startup it would peg an amp meter.  It was not a good spec to have put  in the owner's manual.  He said to redo for 220v.  I did so - ran a special line for 220 to my panel, and it has worked great since.  I also replaced the fuse panel with circuit breakers.  The irony is, several years later I purchased a Sears 3hp contractor table saw, rated at 110v also.  I have had absolutely no trouble at 110v with it.  Guess it can be quirks of different machines.


What's the amp rating?

Patrick Moody said:

I purchased a Sears 2 1/2hp radial saw, rated 110v......

The vacuum (10.5a) and the saw (15a) is definitely overloading that one breker.  Cost and ease of adding another circuit depends upon where your main breaker panel is located in relationship to your garage.  In my case, the main panel is on the outside wall of my garage.  So adding another breaker or sub-panel would be very cheap and easy, maybe a DIY if you have the skills.  A sub-panel would be a better option.  That way you can add more breakers and circuits for additional outlets and power tools.

Talk to an electrician.  They can do an on-site evaluation and give you the best option.

If another circuit can be run easily, about $45.00 to $60 an hour, otherwise about $10.00 a foot

Well Matt, let me say this. As a retired electrician I would take a different approach from what has been suggested so far.

1. Forget a 50-60 Ampere/240VAC Panel, in retail they're way to expensive. With panel, circuit breakers, wiring, receptacles, wall-plates, receptacle boxes, etc. . . .  way too much.

2. Even if you did it yourself you're looking at least $250 or more. Probably closer to $400.

3. You know when I was doing maintenance, 95% of the work I did was because a wife called to have me come fix her husband's efforts! In the trade these individuals are best described as, "They know just enough about the electrical trade to be dangerous!"  But, I did make a great living on them!

4. No I would go at it from a different route. Try a 30 Ampere/240VAC Panel with 2-4 circuits, wire it with 10 gauge, four-conductor wire (Romex) or THHN individual if running it in conduit. Put in two - 15 Ampere Circuits, ground the panel with the 4th bare/green conductor and you'll be in like Flynn!

5. Now the disclaimer. I don't know about your area, but a homeowner can do any (safe) wiring they want to to their own home here. BUT, if it isn't permitted, inspected and approved by the building inspector and down the road a fire results from your work, your Fire/Homeowner's Insurance can become Null and Void! You'll end up having to rebuild on your own dime as it were.

Now as to electrician's wages. I charged $50-$60 per hour back in the year 2000! Current prices in my area run from $95-$150 per hour depending on the  requirements of the job. (And plumbers are even higher!)

Good luck and hope this helps,


Well I may not be as smart as some of you all but I whet out and got me a 220 breaker 30 amp and wired up one side for the table saw and the other side for my air so I can run all 3 at the same time but thats what I do.

Both saws are factory rated at 15 amps, 110v.  However as I said in my earlier post, that didn't work out on 110v with the radial saw, so had to go to 220v.  The table saw on the other hand works fine on 110V.  Go figure!!!

Ken Darga said:


What's the amp rating?

Patrick Moody said:

I purchased a Sears 2 1/2hp radial saw, rated 110v......

Reply to Discussion


Need Help?

For Technical Support, please call 800-447-8638 or send a message. Reps are available Monday through Friday from 8am to 5pm CST. 


  • Add Videos
  • View All


Replacing existing slides but cannot remove drawer front

The Kreg slides are made to work with new drawers before putting on the drawer front. In my situation, I cannot remove the existing fronts which means when reversing the jig to hold the draw, it’s at an angle. Not sure what I should do to make them…Continue

Started by Jay Homeyer in General Woodworking Apr 25.


The Clamp anchor screw broke on my mobile project center.  How can I acquire a replacement?Continue

Started by Jon J Howard in Beginners' Zone Apr 20.

Product Reviews

New Kreg 720Pro

I saw the video Kreg put out for this new jig and had high hopes for it.

I purchased one today and am very disappointed with it.

First the docking station is extremely cheap. The plastic is pathetic. A Lego has more…


Posted by Duke Leon on February 15, 2021 at 9:00pm

Not Pleased With Pocket Hole Construction

Several months ago, I purchased the Kreg K4MS so that I could build the Lego Table as outlined on the companion "buildsomething" web site which exclusively uses pocket hole construction.  I have considerable experience with conventional…


Posted by Robert Ringel on September 17, 2020 at 1:48pm — 4 Comments

© 2021   Created by KregRep.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Privacy Policy  |  Terms of Service