1.create handmade trim to my Kreg-based plywood projects, instead of resorting to edge-banding
2. safely route dados and rabbits
3. add custom edge contours to my solid wood projects
I am DIYer who owns and uses a variety of Kreg products. The addition of a Kreg Router Table would add a touch of professionalism to my-side-of-the-garage wood shop and many of my woodworking projects.
Kreg tools have given me the confidence to build projects I would have otherwise been intimidated to even consider. I have built small-scale book cases, storage cabinets, stools, and have made many furniture repairs using Kreg pocket holes.
Kreg products are easy to use. And they perform as advertised.
Congrats on winning the Kreg Router Table, Nick.
It'll be a very useful addition to your work shop.
You'll love it.
Thank you, Ken. It was a pleasant surprise. I look forward to using it ASAP on an on going project.
I plan to mount a Porter Cable 1/2" router BUT it weighs -- according to PC specs -- 15 pounds. I am hoping the the router plate can handle the weight. I also have a smaller Sears 1/4" router I could use, but I'd like to mount the PC. I sent an email to a Kreg rep for confirmation. I'll let you know what I find out.
I'd suggest the P-C 893K or an equivalent Bosch router system.
They include a fixed base, that attaches to the router table plate, and includes a plunge base.
This size router will suffice for most of your routing operations.
If you plan to spin 3" dia bits, then go up to the next higher HP router.
The units easily slip in and out of each base and inserts right into the plunge base.
When hand routing, you just unlock it and remove it from the fixed base in the router table and insert it into the plunge base for hand routing operations.
Select a router model that feature a variable speed---comes in very handy for various routing tasks.
The lower speed for larger diameter bits.
(Check with router bit OEM's. for their recommended router RPM for each type/size of bit as well as the wood you plan to shape).
If you chose, you can fabricate an enclosure for the router table, (making a cabinet for the router table), and use a shop vac to catch most of the wood chips/wood particles. Enclose the sides and back, bottom panel and a hinged door at the front. When in an enclosed cabinet, and using a shop vac, it'll keep the dust factor down considerably.
You'll need to maintain a gap at the top of the LH hinged door area, to allow for an air inlet.
Add a hole in the back panel to fit the vac hose fitting, to suck-up the sawdust from inside the cabinet---this is needed when most of the chip enter into the cabinet area.
The vac connected to the fitting on the back side of the router fence, when most of the chips are expelled from the top of the router table.
You can place a "T" fitting at the read of the cabinet, to vac up the dust from the cabinet as well as from the top area.
Add an auxiliary switch and receptacle near the frontal area, for ready access to the controls---plug the router into one receptacle and the shop vac into the second receptacle.
Locate this switch in the upper RH external corner area, for ready access to the ON-OFF switch.
(Perhaps you can obtain such a control device from Rockler, or the like).
The result will allow for vac to be energized when the router is in operation.
A useful feature that is very beneficial.
WARNING: Insure all power in disconnected to the router or unplugged when changing bits, and/or making any adjustments or servicing the router.
Have fun with your new addition.