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I hope there's an electrician out there, because I am not.  I have a 220v outlet in my garage for my table saw etc.  I just recently ordered a new table saw, 3hp and it calls for 230v.  Do I need to have some wiring done?? Thanks in advance

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I forgot to mention that it is a single phase motor.

Yes Justin, you do need to do some wiring. No worries it's quite simple. Go to your local hardware store or the electrical supplier and purchase a # 10 wire and a 230V receptical, which is the same as your dryer. you also need a 30amp breaker, and done.

Justin, Congradulations on being the owner of a new saw.  Now all of us out here can expect to see more pictures of projects from you.  I do like the ones you have displayed and would enjoy seeing more.

Joe is correct in the wiring, pretty straight forward providing that you have room for a new 30 amp double breaker in your electrical panel.  Just be careful, 230 volts bites pretty good especially on concrete floors.  

  By the way, did you get that lazy susan finished?  I hope my drawings did not confuse the issue for you.  Of all the cabinets to build a lazy susan can be the tricky one.  Just too many things to figure and each figure recon figures the other figure, but once mastered you can built any cabinet.  lol enjoy that new saw......

 

 

 

 

Hi, Justin:

You didn't mention what size breaker and wire size your existing 220v. outlet is. in years past the common voltage ratings were givin as 110 volts or 220 volts. For the past several years the common voltages have been rased by a few volts by the power companys, and are now rated at 115 volts and 230 volts. The amperage raitings are prety much the same. You didn't state the amperage raitings on the name plate of your motor. It is possable that you can use the existing outlet that you have, if the wire size and breaker size is rated heavy enough for your new motor. The cord cap on the new cord might not be the same as the wall outlet, but ether one can be changed to match the other. Hope this helps.

Lowell Sites

Lowell/Joe,

I appreciate all the advice.  I currently have  two 20 amp breakers feeding my 220v and I am using 12 guage wire for that.  The new saw calls for a 20amp breaker and it pulls 12.8 amps. 

 

Jay,

I will be sure to post pictures!!  I haven't done the lazy susan yet, I haven't gotten to that wall yet, I've been running through hickory though and eating blades along the way!! 

Justin, Hickory is my favorite cabinet wood.  I went through several blades trying most on the market until I tried the   "Forrest" brand  1/8 " kerf   40 tooth combination and have never changed since.  I have been using them most of my 20 years in the shop.  You get your saw set up accurate and you can do glue ups right off the saw.  For me they have been amazing blades.  I disreguard the request that Forrest makes about sending them to them for sharpening and find a good saw shop in town.  You save money and time and shipping headaches. 

Do you use alot of knotty hickory?  If so I have a good trick for you to save some of the knotty wood.  I use epoxy resin and put a jet black dye in it.  Add a piece of mylar plastic on the back seal it down with masking tape or duck tape and pore it in the knot.  let it dry sand it off and coat it with clear coat.  It turns white when you sand it but the finish will turn it back to a jet black.I have even made defects in a piece of hickory to make a special accent piece.  This trick works on any wood.  It will accent a piece with cracks voids and makes it look old.  I also use it to fill a pocket screw holes in stead  of a plug.  Another use I have for it is doing inlays.  Cut out the inlay in the wood with a dremel  such as a a name or a figure, mix up the resin and pore it in, when it cures  sand it off and put a coat of finish on it.  I have some of this in the cabinets that I have on my photos in the hichory collection.  It works best on hickory, cherry, and pines, giving you most eye popping features.  lol 

Hickory is very pretty stuff.  I do like the Forrest brand blades too!  I had my last blade sharpened by a guy locally, I didn't send it off to Forrest.  As far as the hickory, the place I get my rough sawn from really only gets clear stuff in, no rustic.  I did get some #2 walnut that I made some chests out of, but I cut the knots out.  I will have to try that epoxy though.

Jay Boutwell said:

Justin, Hickory is my favorite cabinet wood.  I went through several blades trying most on the market until I tried the   "Forrest" brand  1/8 " kerf   40 tooth combination and have never changed since.  I have been using them most of my 20 years in the shop.  You get your saw set up accurate and you can do glue ups right off the saw.  For me they have been amazing blades.  I disreguard the request that Forrest makes about sending them to them for sharpening and find a good saw shop in town.  You save money and time and shipping headaches. 

Do you use alot of knotty hickory?  If so I have a good trick for you to save some of the knotty wood.  I use epoxy resin and put a jet black dye in it.  Add a piece of mylar plastic on the back seal it down with masking tape or duck tape and pore it in the knot.  let it dry sand it off and coat it with clear coat.  It turns white when you sand it but the finish will turn it back to a jet black.I have even made defects in a piece of hickory to make a special accent piece.  This trick works on any wood.  It will accent a piece with cracks voids and makes it look old.  I also use it to fill a pocket screw holes in stead  of a plug.  Another use I have for it is doing inlays.  Cut out the inlay in the wood with a dremel  such as a a name or a figure, mix up the resin and pore it in, when it cures  sand it off and put a coat of finish on it.  I have some of this in the cabinets that I have on my photos in the hichory collection.  It works best on hickory, cherry, and pines, giving you most eye popping features.  lol 

Justin, Once you try it you will most likely find more uses for it.  I buy it from a business called "Tap Plastics" along with the dye.  There is other dyes that are in other colors and some are  a solid color and some are translucent.  home depot sells the same stuff which is used in fiberglass mat bonding in things like boats and other fiberglass repairs.  In building a raised panel on a set of cabinets a couple years ago i found a 30 cal bullet embeded in some wood and just nicked it on the very back with the planner blade.  It loosened it but I used the resin without the dye and it became a frequently shown object in his cabinets.  Lots of fun. Have a great day. 
That's cool!!  There a sawmill local to you?  I get my lumber from a millwork place that sells roughsawn lumber.  The prices are right, but like I said, since it's a millwork place you don't get much in the way of rustic really.  I will give that a try though when i do run into that though. 
The 20 amp breaker is more than enough and so is the wire size. You will need to buy a  plug for it or wire it direct to the outlet. It still is not a big job to do. Have fun using the new saw.

justin waldron said:

Lowell/Joe,

I appreciate all the advice.  I currently have  two 20 amp breakers feeding my 220v and I am using 12 guage wire for that.  The new saw calls for a 20amp breaker and it pulls 12.8 amps. 

 

Jay,

I will be sure to post pictures!!  I haven't done the lazy susan yet, I haven't gotten to that wall yet, I've been running through hickory though and eating blades along the way!! 

Justin what I have done is contacted local mills and lumber dealers and tell them to set aside any of the rough wood that most people refuse to take.  Since i have my own thickness planner I get the roughest stuff I can find. run a metal detector across it and fling it through the planner.  Sometime It is like diamonds in the rough, looks pretty bad until you polish it up abit.   I have made several thousand dollars from cast off wood just using the epony trick and have made some cabinets that people have seen and want the same, looking me up to build some.  It may sound strange but I often find better lumber in used stuff that you can get paying top dollar for in the lumber brokers and yards.  It's just money in the pocket when you do.

 I know you are young yet and have alot of years ahead of you and have the talent and interest in building so I'm just throwing things at you that I learned over the years.  maybe it will be of help and or give you an idea. lol

Thanks John, I can handle adding a plug for sure, that's easier than rewiring something, thanks again everyone!

John Gray said:
The 20 amp breaker is more than enough and so is the wire size. You will need to buy a  plug for it or wire it direct to the outlet. It still is not a big job to do. Have fun using the new saw.

justin waldron said:

Lowell/Joe,

I appreciate all the advice.  I currently have  two 20 amp breakers feeding my 220v and I am using 12 guage wire for that.  The new saw calls for a 20amp breaker and it pulls 12.8 amps. 

 

Jay,

I will be sure to post pictures!!  I haven't done the lazy susan yet, I haven't gotten to that wall yet, I've been running through hickory though and eating blades along the way!! 

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