All Discussions Tagged 'plywood' - Kreg Owners' Community2024-03-28T20:15:58Zhttps://kregjig.ning.com/forum/topic/listForTag?tag=plywood&feed=yes&xn_auth=no1/4 is now 15/32tag:kregjig.ning.com,2016-12-01:2900167:Topic:8514182016-12-01T06:35:59.770ZMerle Nashhttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/MerleNash
<p>I am concerned that since 1/2" ply is no longer available and the new 1/2" ply is now 15/32". Question: Will using a pocket hole punch through on the other side, or, is the 1/32" not going to affect it?</p>
<p>I am concerned that since 1/2" ply is no longer available and the new 1/2" ply is now 15/32". Question: Will using a pocket hole punch through on the other side, or, is the 1/32" not going to affect it?</p> Workbench cabinet - structural question - P screw placementtag:kregjig.ning.com,2016-10-31:2900167:Topic:8474832016-10-31T16:26:00.077ZLaurahttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/Laura177
<p><font face="Times New Roman" size="3">Hello, I got a LAB workbench for free. It is a very expensive one with fantastic wheels and I want to use it. However I would like to convert it into a workbench. I would like to create the cabinet that seats on the two side arms. The workbench is 60"x18" and the cabinet will be 60x15x12. I am building with 5/8" plywood but I can do sides with 3/4" ply if necessary. Considering how long it is I was planning to have the back made of 5/8" plywood instead…</font></p>
<p><font face="Times New Roman" size="3">Hello, I got a LAB workbench for free. It is a very expensive one with fantastic wheels and I want to use it. However I would like to convert it into a workbench. I would like to create the cabinet that seats on the two side arms. The workbench is 60"x18" and the cabinet will be 60x15x12. I am building with 5/8" plywood but I can do sides with 3/4" ply if necessary. Considering how long it is I was planning to have the back made of 5/8" plywood instead of just a couple of cleats. The questions are:</font></p>
<p><font face="Times New Roman" size="3">a) Should the sides and back (5/8" too) overlap the bottom? This means that the pocket holes will be in the bottom piece of the cab</font></p>
<p><font face="Times New Roman" size="3">b) does it matter (structurally) if the holes are inside or outside the cab?</font></p>
<p><font face="Times New Roman" size="3">c) the two sides will overlap the back and the bottom, this means that the back will have pocket holes to attach to the sides. Would it be enough to prevent sagging?</font></p>
<p><font face="Times New Roman" size="3">d) Do I really need a face frame to keep the bottom from sagging?</font></p>
<p><font face="Times New Roman" size="3">e) Would the partitions (at least 2 made of 3/4 ply) be enough to keep bottom and top from sagging?</font></p>
<p><font face="Times New Roman" size="3">I have attached pics:</font></p>
<p><font face="Times New Roman" size="3">1) the table I have</font></p>
<p><font face="Times New Roman" size="3">2) the drawers I would built</font></p>
<p><font face="Times New Roman" size="3">3) My dream workbench (all wood though)</font></p>
<p></p> Best screw placement for a very long cabinet - structural advisetag:kregjig.ning.com,2016-10-31:2900167:Topic:8474602016-10-31T16:11:16.668ZLaurahttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/Laura177
<p>Hello, I got a LAB workbench for free. It is quite nice but I would like to convert it into a workbench. I would like to create the cabinet that seats on the two side arms. It is 60"x18" and the cabinet will be 60x15x12. I am building with 5/8" plywood but I can do sides with 3/4" ply if necessary. Considering how long it is I was planning to have the back made of 5/8" plywood instead of just a cleat. The questions are:</p>
<p>a) Should the sides and back (5/8" too) overlap the bottom? This…</p>
<p>Hello, I got a LAB workbench for free. It is quite nice but I would like to convert it into a workbench. I would like to create the cabinet that seats on the two side arms. It is 60"x18" and the cabinet will be 60x15x12. I am building with 5/8" plywood but I can do sides with 3/4" ply if necessary. Considering how long it is I was planning to have the back made of 5/8" plywood instead of just a cleat. The questions are:</p>
<p>a) Should the sides and back (5/8" too) overlap the bottom? This means that the pocket holes will be in the bottom of the cab</p>
<p>b) does it matter if the holes are inside or outside the cab?</p>
<p>c) the two sides will overlap the back and the bottom, this means that the back will have pocket holes to attach to the sides</p>
<p>d) Do I really need a face frame to keep the bottom from sagging?</p>
<p>e) would the partitions (at least 2 made of 3/4 ply would be enough to keep bottom and top from sagging?</p>
<p></p>
<p>I have attached pics:</p>
<p>1) the table I have</p>
<p>2) the drawers I would built</p>
<p>3) My dream workbench (all wood though)</p>
<p></p> Use with plywoodtag:kregjig.ning.com,2016-07-13:2900167:Topic:8334332016-07-13T00:58:57.882ZR Ballhttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/RionBell
<p>Hey guys,</p>
<p>Newbie here. I love the product (probably buying a kit tomorrow). I am building a podium and will be attaching two pieces of 3/4" oak plywood. Will this work well for that? All the examples I'm seeing are of smaller pieces of wood. </p>
<p></p>
<p>Since it's plywood, would I use the larger thread screws, or since it's hardwood, the smaller?</p>
<p></p>
<p>How much space should I put between set screws (in a 4' span)?</p>
<p></p>
<p>Thanks</p>
<p>Hey guys,</p>
<p>Newbie here. I love the product (probably buying a kit tomorrow). I am building a podium and will be attaching two pieces of 3/4" oak plywood. Will this work well for that? All the examples I'm seeing are of smaller pieces of wood. </p>
<p></p>
<p>Since it's plywood, would I use the larger thread screws, or since it's hardwood, the smaller?</p>
<p></p>
<p>How much space should I put between set screws (in a 4' span)?</p>
<p></p>
<p>Thanks</p> Position of Pocket Holes for Strengthtag:kregjig.ning.com,2014-08-07:2900167:Topic:6390532014-08-07T16:19:59.873ZJerryhttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/Jerry606
<p>I am putting some 3/4-inch plywood shelves in a closet that already has vertical plywood dividers. I am using pocket holes instead of shelf pins. For maximum strength, should the pocket holes be on the top or bottom of the shelves? I do not care if the holes are visible.</p>
<p>I am putting some 3/4-inch plywood shelves in a closet that already has vertical plywood dividers. I am using pocket holes instead of shelf pins. For maximum strength, should the pocket holes be on the top or bottom of the shelves? I do not care if the holes are visible.</p> Routing track channels for sliding doors?tag:kregjig.ning.com,2013-09-13:2900167:Topic:5693752013-09-13T13:22:09.928ZJeff Millerhttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/JMcreative
<p>Hi all – big fan of the group, this is my first forum post.</p>
<p></p>
<p>I'm building a large built-in wardrobe out of 3/4" birch ply.</p>
<p>It'll be in the vintage modern style w/ sliding doors, and I'm thinking of using 1/2" ply for the doors themselves.</p>
<p></p>
<p>I'm looking for advice on the track for the doors. </p>
<p>My current plan is to rout the two track channels right into the top and bottom panels.</p>
<p>I have a dewalt compact router and a small router table. </p>
<p>I…</p>
<p>Hi all – big fan of the group, this is my first forum post.</p>
<p></p>
<p>I'm building a large built-in wardrobe out of 3/4" birch ply.</p>
<p>It'll be in the vintage modern style w/ sliding doors, and I'm thinking of using 1/2" ply for the doors themselves.</p>
<p></p>
<p>I'm looking for advice on the track for the doors. </p>
<p>My current plan is to rout the two track channels right into the top and bottom panels.</p>
<p>I have a dewalt compact router and a small router table. </p>
<p>I figured I'd experiment w/ scrap first...because I'm not sure what bit size I should use, or how far to space the channels. </p>
<p></p>
<p>I've thought about some other approaches, but since this is a pretty big project I thought I'd reach out to you guys.</p>
<p></p>
<p>What would you do? Any other thoughts on the sliding door idea?</p>
<p>You can check out my credenza project for an example of the style I'm going for.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Thanks a bunch, Jeff in Boston</p> MDF vs Plywood for garage workbenchtag:kregjig.ning.com,2010-05-20:2900167:Topic:391312010-05-20T14:29:04.872ZDaniel Pinskyhttps://kregjig.ning.com/profile/DanielPinsky
Hi to all:<br></br>
<br></br>
This weekend I will be tackling a workbench project, which is my first project. I have a couple of questions concerning the project.<br></br>
<br></br>
1) Because my bench will be living in my garage and I live up in canada, where it's cold for 6 months of the year, should I be using plywood instead of MDF because of the cold and moister?<br></br>
<br></br>
2) Should I be finishing/protecting my top to protect against the cold and moister. If so, then what should I be…
Hi to all:<br/>
<br/>
This weekend I will be tackling a workbench project, which is my first project. I have a couple of questions concerning the project.<br/>
<br/>
1) Because my bench will be living in my garage and I live up in canada, where it's cold for 6 months of the year, should I be using plywood instead of MDF because of the cold and moister?<br/>
<br/>
2) Should I be finishing/protecting my top to protect against the cold and moister. If so, then what should I be using?<br/>
<br/>
Regards,<br/>
<br/>
Dan