Now, I like this plywood, but like everything else, their description is some what erroneous. They really do not have a real description of this on their website and the employees only know what they have been told. The problem I am finding is this; while most of the plywood at HD is undersized, some where around .708, this plywood now measures out at .701. I measured about 10 sheets. I thought at first I was doing something wrong. I wasn't.
So now 18mm plywood is like 17.5mm and being called 3/4. My question is this, why couldn't I place a pair of washers under the drill bit setup block and then adjust the stop. I actually drilled through the floor of my K5 jig when the stop collar was set at 3/4". I mean we are looking at a loss of 1/16" of material overall. In a couple of instances a couple of screws have popped the veneer. I am thinking that that little adjustment with the washers would stop that from happening. These are cabinet carcasses, but a protruding point of a screw can really open up some flesh.
Thanks
Tags:
David,
Position the stop collar 1/16" closer to the drill bit tip, which will result in the hole not being drilled as deep, as as it would be when at the 3/4" setting.
I recommend making sample test pieces, of the same material thickness, as the final product.
Assemble and double check that the screw point has not protrude thru the mating work-piece.
Works for me.
After doing a few, you'll get the hang of it.
Thanks Ken, I am using a piece of spring steel 1/16' thick under the drill bit height block on the K5. Moves the collar closer to the tip. Works like a charm.
David,
FYI---most plywoods available from Home Centers, are the same thickness.
1/4", 3/8", 1/2" and 3/4" is the nominal thickness.
The "actual" thickness may vary.
I generally carry my dial calipers with me when selecting the desired material.
Sometimes, I've had to sort thru a few from the same batch, to find what I'm looking for to build a specific project.
There are router bits on the market, that have a cutting diameter, for the thinner plywoods.
These router bits are intended for making dados, to accomodate the thinner plywoods.
David,
A set of automotive feeler gauges, are handy in my tool box, for many tasks that require fine tuning.
These gauges are available in short and long leafs, as well as those that have a bent end.
The bent ones come in very handy when working in limited access areas.
The leafs can be used individually or in multiples, to achive the desired thickness.
I use all types, in one form or another.
Shim stock is also very useful as spacers, to have on hand, to use as setup gauges.
Brass shim stock is readily available at Hobby Craft stores.
I purchase them in 12" lengths, and cut them shorter to facilitate my needs, for a specific function.
Washers are suitable; however, the thickness varies from one source or another.
I check these with calipers.
For the desired shims I keep on-hand, I engrave the thickness on the object itself,
so as to be readily identifiable.
The markings on the metal can be achieved using an engraving tool.
David Pettinger said:
Thanks Ken, I am using a piece of spring steel 1/16' thick under the drill bit height block on the K5. Moves the collar closer to the tip. Works like a charm.
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