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Hey all! I'm new on the forums but have used Kreg tools to make lots of things!

I just bought the 44"x64" universal table, but I'm looking for a fast, very sturdy option for a top?

I'm thinking I can go with a sheet or 2 of hardwood plywood but I'm not sure how the center will hold up, any suggestions or tips that have worked for you?

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James, 

I'd use 2 layers of 3/4" MDF.

(plywood can warp).

I'd suggest installing 2x4 cross members, butted to the underside of the sheet material---orientated vertically--- spaced 16" apart, and running the 44" table depth.

The cross members will provide rigidity and support for the large panels, as well as reduced bounce, when hammering on the table.

You can also install a 1/4" thick sheet of hardboard, atop the MDF.

It'll preserve the MDF top, from damage and chipping.

When the hardboard gets damaged, you can easily replace it.

The hardboard can be affixed to the MDF with double stick tape.

Apply 3-4 coats of shellac to the wood exposed surfaces.

(So as to reduce/prevent moisture entrance into the wood).

I'd also install a 1x maple edge band around the perimeter of the table top.

(this will dress it up and look nice).

BTW---avoid nails, brads or staples when joining the plys.

(Titebond glues are very effective).

Another thing, that I find very handy on my work tops, is intalling "T-tracks" and bench dog holes.

Also take a look at the Kreg Bench Klamp systems.

I find the plates very useful, located strategically, for some clamping tasks.

Have fun with your builds.

Thanks so much! I'm going to be placing a CNC router on the one side of this table so rigidity is most certainly important! So as your saying, cut 4 2x4's at 44" and run them on the 2"side against the frame?

This will have the table standing 5" above the metal frame if I've added up correctly? Or if I lay them flag I will be sitting at 3" above the frame?

I was debating on pre drilling and fastening the MDF to the 2x4s at the cross sections, will this allow enough support or am I best to titebond as well as screw into the 2x4s?

I'd make the 2x4, orientated vertical, and nested inside the frame.

Make applicable notches in the ends of the 2x4's, so they register snugly in the metal frame channels/angles, of the frame top.

The edges of the 2x4's and the top surface of the metal frame, to be in the same plane.

The top to rest flush on the metal frame and 2x4's.

If the 2x4's are located on top of the metal frame, it'll elevate your work surface another 3-1/2".

You can secure the top panels to the 2x4, from the top-side---

OR, the top panel can be secured to the frame members from the underside.

The fasterers can be of such length, that they will only engage in the bottom layer of the two 3/4" MDF sheets.

Install the screws through thru-holes in the metal frame top.

Pocket hole fasteners, and be used to secure the top panel to the 2x4 members.

I'd just titebond 3 glue the top uppermost 3/4" MDF panel to the lower MDF panel.

Apply the glue and use a grooved trowel to spread an even beading.

Position the top layer on the lower layer---move it around slightly to spread out the glue.

The place weights, (cement blocks or the like), on the top panel for an hour, giving time for the glue to set.

Space the blocks so as to apply evenly distributed pressure on the top panel.

I've made some work tops using two 3/4" MDF panels, and constructed as described---

you can pound on it with an 8lb sledge---the bounce will be minimal---it's that solid and rigid.

Well I took all of your advice and I wanted to come back to let you know it worked great!

I went ahead and titebond3 2 pieces of 3/4 MDF, I sanded the edged and used blonde shellac to seal the edges and top.

With the supports I ripped down the ends of a 2x4 to fit into the frame channel, and left a 1/16" thicker in the middle to let the top sit flush on the table and on the supports!

It's awesome and level as can be!
Thanks for all the help in getting this done!
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James,

Thank you for your reply and for your thanks.

Happy it worked out for you.


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