Son's 30th Birthday Fishing Rod Holder

Comment

Comment by Stephanie H on January 31, 2018 at 9:59pm

Darrel, I have no plans for this.  I just made it from the ideas I had in my head and researching others to design my own.

Comment by darrel sodren on January 30, 2018 at 5:30pm

I would like to get plans of this rod holder

Comment by Jay Boutwell on October 8, 2015 at 1:50am

Stephanie this is a link to some molding.  The last time I bought some was about 2 years ago and the place I got it from was a plastic outfit  back east.  I will have to check on a source for it and see if they still have it.  It is called both rubber and or plastic Tee molding.  This is a link that will show you a photo.

http://www.t-molding.com/index.html

Comment by Stephanie H on October 7, 2015 at 11:34pm

Who and what does rubber edging look like?  Links?  The cord grommets, although a great idea are too expensive for this project.  Especially with all the holes we will have.  I have searched for it, but come up with a lot of things that just do not look right.

Comment by Jay Boutwell on October 7, 2015 at 9:48pm

They are available at Rocklers.  Type in cord grommets in the search bar on their main catalogue.  They have the ones called "fast Caps" double sided grommets  and the other style that I have used are the ones called standard grommets and the multi slot grommets.  If you look at them closely you will see that the middle pulls out.  I use the outer rim. Secure them using epoxy cement.  The fast cap are the better ones as the bottom insert goes on the bottom making them look good on both sides and they are only a round plastic insert that just lines the hole.

Comment by Stephanie H on October 7, 2015 at 9:27pm

Jay,  Do you have a link or pictures of what you are referring to regarding the plastic inserts on the fishing pole holder? 

Comment by Jay Boutwell on October 7, 2015 at 9:05pm

Stephanie the only time I will use contact cement only for the purpose of attaching plastic laminates and some veneers.  It needs to be applied correctly or you will have bumps and loose spots due to a dry surface( place where not enough contact cement was applied and or it was not rolled out correctly using a laminate surface roller).

Trying to second coat a surface you must be sure the surface is dry to touch before you apply the second coat or the first coat will begin to roll up leaving you a rought bumpy surface that will also leave you with bumps. 

 

Applications of the two pieces together ( the substrate and the laminate) is the hard part as you must line up the parts before one touches or it will instantly make a permanent bond.  Many use dowel sticks to lay between the surfaces on large items like counter tops and or large veneer skins.  Some use wax papers and such items however these tear easily and will leave you with a surprise in the form of a bump or high spot in the laminate or veneer. 

 

The best thing that I have found to use is the slats of a window blind that is metal.  Do not use the plastic type and contact cement will grab onto them.  Lay out the slats on top of the substrate about 8 inches apart and line up ut the laminate or veneer on top of the slats.  These will hole it above the substate.  Begin attaching the laminate or veneer in the center by removing one slat and lightly pushing it straight down once it is stuck to the surface remove another one from either your right and or left and repeat as before,  then on the opposite side remove one and repeat.  By now you have an area that is begining to be large so at this time using your hands remove any air pockets from under the laminate or veneer and by working from the center to the outsides.  Then repeat until you have the laminate or venner attached to the substrate.  Now using a laminate surface roller roll the laminate or veneer out starting from the center to the outsides until complete.  Do this in a reasonable time as the contact cement is continuing to cure and if too dry before being rolled out it can leave you with a dry spot that i mentioned above.  Be sure that every square inch has been rolled out using a good amount of pressure.

 

I should mention that you should count the blind slats and besure you have remove all of them.  To besure leave the slats sticking out on one side so that you can grab them and see that they are all removed. 

 

I also should mention that veneers need to be handled carefully as they will not stand the same about of handeling as laminates.  Very thin veneers require special handeling and some will need to be installed using veneer tools.

 

In case you find a spot in your laminate install that is loose sometimes you can use a common iron for clothing and using the high heat, you can re-activate the contact cement enought to attach it by using

 pressure with a roller and or even a hammer and a block of wood.  Besure that you protect your hands as it is hot and also prevent the scorching of the laminate using a towel between the iron and the laminate. 

Keep the iron moving on the loose area and be careful not to over heat the laminate.  I like to use the iron on a piece of the same material to see how much heat can be applied before it scorches.

 

The reason I do not use contact cement in other applications it is not as strong as other glues that will do the job better. 

 

A word of caution in using the contact cement it is very flameable and the fumes are carsagenic.  Water base contact cement is not as dangerous however the bonding strength is not as good.

Comment by Jay Boutwell on October 7, 2015 at 8:29pm

Stephanie, lining a hole such as the ones you cut to insert the fishing pole rods I had rather us the plastic inserts that you can get at cabinet supply stores for running computer and electronic wires through.  Remove the insert cover which is usually a twist type cover that moves to leave you an  adjustable size to allow the wiring to protrude.   I like these as they do not wear out or get dirty like felt and other cloth based covering.  They come is white brown and black and I have see tan ones.  I use the black as they look good in furniture and go with most finish colors. 

 

  For making a soft type edge that is mostly straight and or not too sharp of turns I use the rubber style edging that you can get also at cabinet supply locations for banding speciality type shelves and sometimes things like homemade lazy susan shelves.  The install by using a slot cutter cutting a slot in the material and pushing them into the slot cut by the slot cutter.  A small bard holds them in.  These are quick and fast to do and I have used them on many pieces of furniture and they do look nice.  They also come in several colors mostly in browns tan and black.

Comment by Jay Boutwell on October 7, 2015 at 8:16pm

Stephanie, yoiu asked me my thoughts on staining before assembly.  It is a good way to do it however any nicks or scratches made on the piece as you assemble it will show up of which some may require more repair and often will leave a spot in the finish once you re-stain it.  Also glue lines can show up on top of the finish and if missed you will end up taking the stain off removing the glue.  My choice is to all the stain and finish once the piece is totally assemblied.  A tip for you to remove glue is to use a mixture of 50/50 water and white vinegar.

Comment by Ken Darga on October 7, 2015 at 10:37am

Steph,

The adhesive back felt, seems to be only suitable for a "'temporary" bonding.

That's okay for some tasks, but not for all.

When using contact cement for permanent bonding, it needs to be applied to both surfaces---

allow to dry for 10-15 minutes, and assemble the pieces.

Once contact is make, that's it---you won't be able to make adjustments.

Another method, I use on ocassions, is to apply contact cement to one surface, assemble and position the parts, press firmly in place---by hand or using a small roller is very useful.

When the adhesive is wet, not set, I have a short time to make adjustments.

When working with smaller pieces, I place the object in a "spray booth"---

spray-on the contact cement on the workpiece---lift it out of the booth and transfer the object.

A simple spray booth, can be a cardboard box---12x24 x 3" deep, or of suitable size for the task at hand.  Keep the box tilted at approx 45 degree angle, and with the flap somewhat angled open---so as to avoid over-spray onto adjacent objects or areas.

Waxpaper also works well---the adhesive won't stick to it.

Aluminum foil is another alternate.

Butcher paper and freezer paper, are also very useful to have in the shop, 

One side is coated with a wax.

It's easier to obtain freezer paper---readily available in well stocked grocery stores.

These handy items are very useful in my shop.

When applying contact cement to a surface, and don't want it to spread beyond the desired bonding area, I surround the area with masking tape.  Apply the adhesive, then apply the object---press in place---allow to dry---remove the tape.

Double-stick adhesive tape is another useful tool in my shop---such as carpet tape.

Some tapes are of the double-stick foam type---very hand for some uses.

For some tasks, I prefer this material, over contact cement---a lot less messy.

I just use an amount suitable for the task---like securing the object around the border---either continuous or intermittently spaced.

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