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No plans, I just measured and cut, sort of put the plans together in my head. The only tricky part if you put your hinges in one of the bookcase corners, is to calculate the correct maximum width of the bookcase to clear the door jamb. Not sure if you can see from the pictures but there is a gap on the right side of the bookcase so that the front right edge will clear the jamb. The hinges are on the left side back of the book case. I also beefed up the left side and bottom of the bookcase with 2x lumber and put a steel screen door brace diagonally on the back to eliminate sagging under weight. I wish I had documented this build as several folks have asked for the plans. Worst part is, I sold the house this door was in, so maybe I will document the plans if I build another one. If I do, it will also hide my gun room, as did this one.
Chuck,
I have finally completed my door. It was selected as a featured project and I revised it to add more detail steps for anyone building one. I had three sets of instruction and each had different directions.
The hardware is very strong and the design is super but instructions are weak.
Anyway have a look.
BTW, I should have said "normally closed pushbutton switches" as the circuit needs to be active until a button is pushed to open the circuit.
Glad that helped. Hope you post your project when finished!
Very neat. Thanks for the info.
The electronics were fairly simple. I used a Seco-Larm E-941SA-80Q Mini Maglock, 80 lb. along with a 12v AC power supply that I plugged into an outlet in the room. I break the positive wire 2 times, one with a rocker switch inside of the room and again with a rocker rocker switch under the "secret panel" on the outside of the door. The LED's on the switches are powered by the same 12v power supply. I could have used normally open pushbutton switches which would have made the wiring easier. Anyway, I mounted the electromagnet to the top of the door frame and the strike plate atop the bookcase aligning with the electromagnet. Works great, but more for fun as the door can open during a power failure unless the 12v supply is backed up by a UPS.
Here is the information on the electromagnet and the power supply, which I purchased from Amazon.
http://www.seco-larm.com/E-941SA-80Q.htm
http://www.jackyleds.com/12v-2a-20a-power-supply-adapter-for-110v-2...
Nice Job! Effective too.
I am in the middle of building a surface mount Bi-fold Bookcase Murphy Door. Mine will just cover a closet in a study. Can you add a little on the electronics of your door?
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