Kreg Owners' Community

Kreg Jig use on 90-degree joint with solid cherry panel and plywood shelves

I have a concern on using pocket screws with a solid cherry panel joined to plywood shelves (90-degree joint).  I used pocket screws in place of a dado as its easier but am now concerned that the 2 different wood types will expand differently and crack the hardwood panel.  Do you suggest using a slot in one of the pocket screws and/or what is suggested for this application?

Thanks,
Bill

Views: 375

Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

Hi Bill any time that a solid piece of wood is jointed to something that is stable and does not respond to moisture content as rapid and in fact there is little change in plywood, you should never pin and or glue them together with out allowing them to be able to move independently of each other.  One way is like you mentioned slotting the screws and another way is the dado or a slot that holds the panel in place but with out trapping it so the panel can not move.

This is the reason for the floating door panel as it is allowed 1/4 inch gap between the rails and sitles  (1/8 inch on each side).  Most do not realize that a door with a solid wood panel is actually made up of 5 separate pieces.  There is the two rails and the two stiles and then the panel.   There is one exception and that is when a plywood panel is used in place of a solid wood panel.  The panel is held tight in the groves by using a rubber B_B that is known as a space ball and or a rubber of foam strip known as a panel aligner.  It keeps the panel in a centered location preventing the ever annoying panel rattle and unstained parts of the door panel from becoming exposed  when the climate move it.    As a rule of thumb there should never be any mechanical fastener or glue that will prevent the movement of a solid panel under climate changes.

Good advice Jay .

thanks for the input, do you have any suggestions on the best way to slot the kreg jig pilot hole?  

Jay Boutwell said:

Hi Bill any time that a solid piece of wood is jointed to something that is stable and does not respond to moisture content as rapid and in fact there is little change in plywood, you should never pin and or glue them together with out allowing them to be able to move independently of each other.  One way is like you mentioned slotting the screws and another way is the dado or a slot that holds the panel in place but with out trapping it so the panel can not move.

This is the reason for the floating door panel as it is allowed 1/4 inch gap between the rails and sitles  (1/8 inch on each side).  Most do not realize that a door with a solid wood panel is actually made up of 5 separate pieces.  There is the two rails and the two stiles and then the panel.   There is one exception and that is when a plywood panel is used in place of a solid wood panel.  The panel is held tight in the groves by using a rubber B_B that is known as a space ball and or a rubber of foam strip known as a panel aligner.  It keeps the panel in a centered location preventing the ever annoying panel rattle and unstained parts of the door panel from becoming exposed  when the climate move it.    As a rule of thumb there should never be any mechanical fastener or glue that will prevent the movement of a solid panel under climate changes.

Bill, most likely I would use a drill bit and bore the hole in the panel oversized larger than the screw shank.  Be sure to leave the screw loose enough that the panel will be able to move sideways uner the screw head. To be safe I would do this to all of the screws.

bill steinike said:

thanks for the input, do you have any suggestions on the best way to slot the kreg jig pilot hole?  

Jay Boutwell said:

Hi Bill any time that a solid piece of wood is jointed to something that is stable and does not respond to moisture content as rapid and in fact there is little change in plywood, you should never pin and or glue them together with out allowing them to be able to move independently of each other.  One way is like you mentioned slotting the screws and another way is the dado or a slot that holds the panel in place but with out trapping it so the panel can not move.

This is the reason for the floating door panel as it is allowed 1/4 inch gap between the rails and sitles  (1/8 inch on each side).  Most do not realize that a door with a solid wood panel is actually made up of 5 separate pieces.  There is the two rails and the two stiles and then the panel.   There is one exception and that is when a plywood panel is used in place of a solid wood panel.  The panel is held tight in the groves by using a rubber B_B that is known as a space ball and or a rubber of foam strip known as a panel aligner.  It keeps the panel in a centered location preventing the ever annoying panel rattle and unstained parts of the door panel from becoming exposed  when the climate move it.    As a rule of thumb there should never be any mechanical fastener or glue that will prevent the movement of a solid panel under climate changes.

Elongated holes can be made by---

drilling two holes "X" distance apart---

remove the material between the two holes.

The "X" dimension is determined by the size of the hole plus the length of the desired slot.

Removal of the material between the two holes can be accomplished by routing.

A counterbored hole can be accomplished using a forstner bit to recess the screw head,

then followed by adding the hole to accommodate the screw shank.

PS---the waste material between the two drilled holes, and also be removed by chiseling it out.

thanks for the suggestions, i will give that a try.

Reply to Discussion

RSS

Need Help?

For Technical Support, please call 800-447-8638 or send a message. Reps are available Monday through Friday from 8am to 5pm CST. 

Videos

  • Add Videos
  • View All

Forum

Jig settings for 2 ¾ x 1 ½ boards with 30 degree miters?

I making a hex ring out of 2x4s ripped to 2 ¾ inches wide with 30 degree miters.  What setting on the Jig should I used? 1 ½ is too much.  Thanks.Continue

Started by Patrick Halinski in Kreg Jig® Operation Dec 30, 2023.

40mm Cup Hinge Jig Question

Hi All.....I have the 35mm Kreg Jig hinge drill guide. The guide is great for 35mm Hinge Cups, but I have a speciality 40MM hinge cup to drill.Has anyone adapted the Kreg guide to work with 40mm Forsner drill bits? Or have a guide that works…Continue

Started by Ed Anderson in Beginners' Zone Oct 3, 2023.

Product Reviews

New Kreg 720Pro

I saw the video Kreg put out for this new jig and had high hopes for it.

I purchased one today and am very disappointed with it.

First the docking station is extremely cheap. The plastic is pathetic. A Lego has more…

Continue

Posted by Duke Leon on February 15, 2021 at 9:00pm

Not Pleased With Pocket Hole Construction

Several months ago, I purchased the Kreg K4MS so that I could build the Lego Table as outlined on the companion "buildsomething" web site which exclusively uses pocket hole construction.  I have considerable experience with conventional…

Continue

Posted by Robert Ringel on September 17, 2020 at 1:48pm — 9 Comments

© 2024   Created by KregRep.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Privacy Policy  |  Terms of Service

_