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Jay,
Very informative---GREAT info.
Thanks for sharing and posting the details.
I agree, cabinet construction and installation is critical.
Many are clueless and the advice some give is scary.
Outstanding article Jay! Thanks for always being so very helpful.
Jay very good comments and detail on the proper way to hang or install cabinets in home or shop, think you have covered more then just the basics and know you are speaking from many years of building very nice looking cabinets and know what you are talking about , I would recomend that any one that is going to hang cabinets , to read this discussion , thanks for helping as all ways , JIM !!!
Jay,
GREAT read.
Very well illustrated.
Thanks for sharing your insight.
Jay, very good reply , well written , great details and very easy for any one to under stand !!! Thanks for the information and your help as all ways , JIM !!!
hi, i have started using a method of shimming the base cabinets the is far superior to using wood shims. i reenforce the toe kick area with 2 X 4 material cut to fit inside the toe kick and drill with a forsner bit a 3/4 hole about 1/2 inch deep then use a 1/2 inch brad point bit to drill a 3/4 inch deep hole in the center of the forsner bit hole. i drive a t-nut into the hole and install a bolt into the t-nut .i also put a felt piece over the head of the bolt so it won't mar the floor and you can move the cabinet around with no problems. to adjust height just move the bolt in or out of the nut. i use 3/8 inch bolts about 1 to 1 and 1/2 inch long. sounds like a long procedure to use but it works really well. try it you might like it.
Hi Frank, It would be a long proceedure and in fact I have used similialr methods during my time building cabients as a profession and have done many different types of builds. It is a method of which I seldom found a need for as I have no problem just picking you the cabinet and setting it into place. The problem that I see with your method is that it places all the weight on a small diamater of which will sink into some floors over time. The use of wooden shims works well as it is fast and accurate and does distributes the cabinet's weight over a larger area than a small diameter of a bolt head.
There is a system similiar to what you are discribing of which uses legs that are adjustable down from the cabient floor and found in some of the pre-made European cabienet of which yoiu set in place a level them to the proper height by extending and retracting the legs height. Expensive and did actually nothing to speed up and or make the job of installing cabinets.
Another method of which I have used is to build a seperate toe kick assembly seperate from the cabinet box and set the toe kicks into place first and make the tops level making the adjustment using both shims and also by shaving the toe kicks to fit the uneven floors. i only do this when the floor is very much out of level and requires an extream measure to get the cabinets level. In some cases that allows me to add material between the cabinet box and the toe kick. In cases like this the use of a seperate toe kick that is prefinished is then glued and pin nailed to the toe kick. This is done after the toe kick are inplace and just before sitting the cabient boxes onto the toe kick frame. Anything that I can't fix with this method then the floors should be leveled before any cabinets are placed on the floor.
Once this is done it is a simple process to sit the boxes onto the toe kick and screw them into place screwing them to the base and to the wall studs and then together to make a firm base for a counter top of choice.
There is not the danger like hanging a upper cabient up on a wall that I wrote above in my post. They are either out of level and or out of plumb and is either is wrong will have to be corrected to remedy the ailments.
You idea would work but not practicle for what I have been doing. Every cabinet install is different and that is why I suggested a visit to the location of the cabient installation when possible before the build as it can aid you in the final installation. You can build a cabinet to fit many problems and make a cabinet of better quality without having to do so many alterations once at the place of installation. I had rather know about the floor and wall conditions so that I can correct what I can and then build the cabinet to fit without having to go to the extreams as I would had I not known of problems before arrival of the install. That is the beauty of building a true custom cabinet as it is built to fit the walls and floors both in height and width and length and also on what the cabinets are attached to and are sitting on.
I do thank you for your imput as it may give others ideas.
Frank R. Clark said:
hi, i have started using a method of shimming the base cabinets the is far superior to using wood shims. i reenforce the toe kick area with 2 X 4 material cut to fit inside the toe kick and drill with a forsner bit a 3/4 hole about 1/2 inch deep then use a 1/2 inch brad point bit to drill a 3/4 inch deep hole in the center of the forsner bit hole. i drive a t-nut into the hole and install a bolt into the t-nut .i also put a felt piece over the head of the bolt so it won't mar the floor and you can move the cabinet around with no problems. to adjust height just move the bolt in or out of the nut. i use 3/8 inch bolts about 1 to 1 and 1/2 inch long. sounds like a long procedure to use but it works really well. try it you might like it.
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