Kreg Owners' Community

Hey folks!

 

I'm new to this whole Kreg thing as well as a new woodcrafter.

 

I want to build new cabinets for my kitchen and I have been searching the web for designs, tips, etc...

 

I came across a pro cabinet makers site and many of the people writing thought that Kreg was good to ok for doing face frames but did not think much of the cases being produced with the Kreg system.  Mostly it seemed that they had cases fail, or start to fail, after a few years of use.  There were also some comments about the joinery loosening up after a bit, especially if there was no glue.

 

Just wondering about the success and longevity members here have had.  I really like the concept of the system and want to be sure of the results before I put in all the time, money, and effort.

 

Thanks for your honest responses,

 

brotherbd

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I can't speak for longevity of more than a year but my cabinets are strong, sturdy and stable and every bit of them has been done with Kreg. A toybox I built for 2 year olds more than 2 years ago is still just like new and the desk my laptop is sitting on, along with the other three desks that are in our office are more than 4 years old, all done with Kreg.

Make sure the depth is set correctly on your drill and your jig, use the proper screws and you will be just fine. BTW, Kreg makes pocket hole machines for the pros to use and pocket hole joinery has been around for a very long time. So there must be something to be said for it!


Good luck with all you do. Lots of amazing woodworkers on here that are always ready to help the others out.

Paula
I have used Kreg to make bathroom cabinets and also three Walnut chairs for the church that have been used every sunday during two services. The chairs were put together with only pocket joints without glue. The only glue used was to hold the plugs in place where ther could be seen. The rest of the joints were left open. The geatest strength is in the seat. They are screwed in place along wit the backs to add strengthto the entire chair.
I have made many cabinets using pocket hole joinery. About the only joints I don't use pocket joinery on are

1. still use dado for the bottom shelf on base cabinets especially the sink base because of the weight of a person laying in there to install sink and plumbing.

2. door panels because of having to plug holes in the doors.

3. style and rail door frames for the same reason having to plug holes. just as easy to clamp and glue.

I do use glue on all joints.

Bob
I just built a base kitchen cabinate and used the kreg jig all the way through, better that the existing cabinates hands down!
Sometimes when something new comes along the "old" way of doing it by some people is still the best in their minds.
Kreg joints may not look as "clean" as some but they are stronger than most at least I think so.


Eldon L. Mead said:
I am on my way to Belize, CA with a load of plywood and tools to build cabinets in a cabana my wife and I started a couple of years ago. I too have never build cabinets but after researching different types of cabinet construction I chose the KREG jig and KREG cabinet instructions for my attempt. After reading different articles in magazines about cabinet construction I feel the KREG jig will suit my needs best. I will be in Belize for the next 5 months and plan to get back to you when I'm finished as to the success or failer of the project. Thanks for all the comments above. They have given me additional confidence before I try my skills.
Eldon

Never had an issue with anything I have built yet with a Kreg Jig. I have a shop full of cabinets I used daily and most have 100-300 lbs stacked on them, heavy metal objects slid across, hammered and pounded on very regularly. I have not used glue on any of them. The plans I used are the simple 2 x 4 workbench plans that came with the jig. I have designed bigger, longer and deeper benches using the same basic design and it's holding strong. I was planning on using the reg jig to build new cabinets using a better wood than MDF or pine.

I'm trying to picture the 1x4 braces/reinforcements that Stephen Frught is referring to. Can anyone post pictures or a link to pictures of what Stephen is describing??

And out of curiosity, why should it be solid wood rather than using good quality 3/4" plywood?

--Ken

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