Screws dont come to stop

[Tommy G]

Most of the time when I am using the Kreg Jig, the screws go in to the piece of wood I'm joining and come to a tight stop.  Sometimes though I feel like a couple have kept spinning, and didn't come to a stop on their own (and would continue if I held the drill on them).  The joint still seems pretty strong, just not sure if I'm doing something wrong.  Any ideas?

[Ken Darga]

Sounds like the screws have lost their grip---"over tightening".

Use a hand driven tool.

Common occurance:

a. the screw will strip when engaging in soft wood, or

b. the soft part of the wood, such as between the growth rings, or

c. inadequate thread engagement

[Shannon Mason]

I've had the same issue from time to time. Mr. Darga made a good point. I've been using mainly soft wood with my projects. 

[Tommy G]

Makes sense, it happened in some pine I'm working with now.  Thanks everyone.

[James P. Cottingham]

One more point, use the right screws for the wood: course thread for softwood, mdf, plywood, etc. and fine thread for hardwood.

[James Smith]

I have experienced the same issue, not just with Kreg joints but also with butt or lap joints while countersinking the screws. This only happens in pine for me. Ken makes good points. What I did was to lower the clutch setting on my driver to about a 6 and that solved my problems

[Ken Darga]

Repair Striped Screw Hole:

Remove the screw(s) from the joint.

Install a small about of glue into the hole.

Install tooth-picks.

cut-flush

reinstall screw(s)

[Ken Darga]

Driver Torque:

Not all drivers are the same.

The "inch-lbs" of torque, at a setting of "6", may not be the same as another tool at the same setting.

When installing screws, start out at the lowest setting on the driver tool,

and gradually increase to the next higher number setting,

until the required amount of tightness is achieved. 

TIP:  install screws into a scrap piece of the same type of wood, and check your results,

before proceeding to the final finished product.

Make a few practice runs in various places and surfaces on scrap wood pieces.

Install a screw in the grain and between the grain (growth rings).

Make a note of the number setting on the driving tool, when the screw is installed, to the desired depth and tightness.

After installing the screws with the power driver, use a "hand driving tool", such as a screwdriver, or the like,

to get a feel for the tightness.

(It has to feel good, to be right).

NOTE: the rings in the wood can be much harder than the material between the rings.

[KregRep]

Like Ken and the others said, there are times when it's still possible to strip out the wood. Most importantly, as James said, use the proper screw. Fine-thread screws tend to not get enough "bite" in softwoods. The coarse-thread screw is the way to go—also in plywood and other sheet goods.

I drive Kreg screws with my drill all the time, but I make sure to back my clutch setting down to around 4-6. If the clutch is slipping before the screw is fully engaged, you can set the clutch a bit higher. This may be necessary in harder woods.

When it comes to driving screws, some people feel like using the clutch is cheating, and that you should be able to just tighten them by feel. Yes, I do this a lot, too. But the clutch is there for a reason, and when one of the keys to project success is getting the screw tightened just right without over-tightening, I absolutely use the clutch!

Of course, as Ken also said, if you are having issues on a particular project—maybe the wood is exceptionally soft, etc.—you can always drive or finish driving the screws by hand.

KregRep 

[Keith Woythaler]

I had the same issue.  Ken gave me the same suggestions, so I switched to a ratchet-style screwdriver I had and just screwed by hand....I have not had a problem since.  Every single screw sunk in nicely and held super tight!

[Jay Boutwell]

Hi Tommy,  It happens to you more often until you learn how to listen to the sound of the drill motor and the feel of the drill as the screw enters into the wood.  You will become better as you progress in  your woodworking.  Many depend on and use a clutch setting on a drill however they sometimes get strip outs.  I have found that over the years that the sound of the drill and feel of it as it turns the screw into the wood will tell you how tight the screw is getting.  For me it is the most accurate method of tightening a screw.  An example would be determining what clutch setting would you use when screwing screws into hickory compared to that of screwing screws into pine?  It is hard to tell until you have practiced the art for awhile.  Even when you are screwing screws into the same piece of wood you will find soft places where the screw will strip out however if you are listening to the drill motor and paying attention the feel of the drill you will no longer have to depend on  a clutch setting .  Often in my practice I will use a pneumatic  driver to assemble a project and have to depend on the feel and sound of the driver to determine when the screws are tight.  So here it is the old saying that it is not always the tools that determine the final ending of a project but experience and trial and error.  Keep at it and you will master the art.

I am glad to see you as a member of the community and wish you much happiness as you make your journey through the craftsmanship of woodworking.

[Tommy G]

Thanks guys.  I started making a chair yesterday and didn't run into any issues on about 20 attempts, so I think it's a matter of making sure its the right screw type, and going slow.  The drill I use has a a bit of a hair trigger, so I have to be careful there, but so far so good.  Not sure if it has a clutch setting, but that's probably a different conversation altogether.  Using a Dewalt DWD 112, so I'll check out the settings on their website and see what's up.  The wagon/cart I made turned out ok for my little guy, so if he's happy, I'm happy.  We'll see how this chair goes, thanks for the help!

[Zachary]

An impact drill is usually good for joining stock. Harder to strip out the material. Also I always use glue as a fail safe.