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anybody have a good nail hole filler for mdf casing? I know not to use straight up caulking, too messy. Dap ?, wood filler? Its pre-primed and pre-painted by me. Used  a brad nail gun so the holes are small

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sawdust from the mdf and wood glue mixed together.

Schalk Wood Putty---a very good product.

Available at most hardware stores and home centers.

Powder form---mix with water or glue---easy to use.

Can also be mixed with water base white paint, to match your finished product.

Try car body filler works for me.

Mick,

What are some of the advantages using the material in wood?

 


michael evans said:

Try car body filler works for me.

Hi ken ,i use isopon car body filler alot in my woodwork projects.Its very flexiable does not crack and lends itself too sanding very well.Have a good day ken.

PS---

Oil base stain can be added to Schalk's, to match to a finish.



Ken Darga said:

Schalk Wood Putty---a very good product.

Available at most hardware stores and home centers.

Powder form---mix with water or glue---easy to use.

Can also be mixed with water base white paint, to match your finished product.

Matt,

I've used ''white'' caulk, for many years with good success, when filling nail holes and small voids in white trim.

Makes for nearly invisible repairs.

Apply a small amount, to your finger tip--- (just what you need for the hole)---

apply it into the crevice---

smoothen the caulk with a wetted finger tip---

remove access.

Wetting your finger tip with water, will prevent the caulk adhering to your skin.

(This method works best when smoothing the caulk, like in your bathtub inside corners---works better than any tool I've found on todays market).

Keep a wetted rag handy to remove the caulk from your skin, as you work progresses.

"Clear" caulk works nicely for some repairs.

Most useful when filling voids, where two different colors meet.

Such as, where white trim meets with a painted wall.

I think Ken has it right....thats the method i have used in the past on trim work after bradnailing and then painting.

the one thing you have to remember about fillers is that they can't be any harder (or softer) then the materials you are using....it will affect the sanding. that is why the caulking method works so well especially for painted surfaces.

oh and i wet my finger in a cup of water before wiping across the caulk

good luck

John,

wetting your finger in a ''cup'' of water is a good idea---

if it accidently spills, one doesn't have a lot of water to mop up.


John Schroeder said:

>>>... i wet my finger in a cup of water before wiping across the caulk.../p>

Ken.... lol, exactly

john,

I generally use a 1 gal size bucket, with approx a pint of water.

(A plastic painters bucket is handy for this purpose).

The size makes for just the right size and amount of water, so that I can also dip my finger tips into the bucket to rinse off the adhesive.

And, with a wetted shop towel on the bucket. 

great tip ken, thanks....

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