Small Closet Complete

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Comment by Ken Darga on January 7, 2012 at 9:25am

''Penetrol'' is a great product---

What it can't do?

Penetrol cannot be used in 2-part chemical resistant coatings, Acrylic or other water based paint, chlorinated rubber or coal tar coatings. Always mix a small amount first, if not sure, to determine compatibility.

Comment by Ken Darga on January 7, 2012 at 9:14am

B Truck,

Fir plywood, for your intended project, will suffice for the body, frame work and shelving, with painted surfaces.  

Voids in the ends of the plywood, can be filled (closed) using putty, and sanded smooth.

Prime/seal the wood surfaces before applying the finish paint.

It would be a good practice to finish all the pieces, shelves and the like, with primer/seal, before assembly of the units into the closet.

(RATIONAL:  seal all the unexposed surfaces, to prevent entrance of moisture, so as to prevent ''delaminating'' of the plys.)

If you intend for the finished end result, to be a more natural ''wood finished'' look,

I'd use a birch or oak plywood construction, over fir plywood.

I'd seal the wood with a ''sanding sealer'' and give it two coats of a poly finish ---

or shellac.  

Light sanding between coats is necessary, for good adhesion of the top coats.

NOTE:  painted shelves/surfaces, exposed to usage, such as sliding objects on the shelving,

will show signs of wear quickly, and be ready for touch-up or refinishing, in the near future, and often.

A natural wood finish will have a less visible affect.

For drawers---I'd use an upgraded plywood, such as birch.  

Baltic birch is better, but more costly.

Shelving---alternate construction:

melamine coated particle board---

the material finish is more durable to painted surfaces.

Nicks, that occur at a later date, on corners or edges, can be touched-up, with ''white appliance paint/epoxy''.

Comment by Ryan Bruzan on January 7, 2012 at 9:14am

The cabinet grade stuff is great for the price, but you have to balance that according to what your time is worth and your history of working with it. I might use it for panels (sides, tops and bottoms) on projects with individual, smaller modules (such as the one shown below), but I do not recommend it for shelving and tall panels, framed or frameless unless you properly brace it. I wouldn't use shelf pins without sleeves, but for a closet, that can get expensive if you will be drilling system holes throughout all the panels. Even the higher priced birch and oak plywood will require some bracing at some point, but it is easier to work with. To each his or her own.  

I used to think that MDF was a cheap way to go for projects, but high density MDF has so many more qualities than mythical opinions. I'm not talking about the stock junk at the home centers. Doesn't warp. Retains true dimension and straightness. Rarely a chance for pits or week spots (I've never had that problem, though). Highly durable. I used super refined Plum Creek MDF in my own closet several years ago, painted it, and it still remains true today. Might be a different story if my kids turned it into a jungle gym, but that hasn't happened.

This is my experience working with these materials. You would likely find many other opinions and experiences, but you will have to work with the materials yourself to really understand. 

This is a great question to start in a discussion to see what others have experienced. You might also search www.woodweb.com and www.lumberjocks.com and see what pops up there.

Comment by B. Truck on January 7, 2012 at 4:57am

Ryan et. al,   What is your opinion on the 3/4" cabinet grade plywood at H.D. for a PAINTED closet organizer with drawers?  Is it stable enough? Or, do I need to pay the extra for the birch or oak? 

Comment by B. Truck on December 31, 2011 at 12:28am

Ryan, the base cap upside down method just clicked.  Good Idea.

Comment by B. Truck on December 31, 2011 at 12:21am

Ryan, thanks for the tip on the white edge banding - though I tend to agree with Michael that it often looks cheap - I am trying to avoid it; seen too many peels - I might give the white band a try, might work since its just paint grade. I cant visualize the upside down cap mould though? Any links to that?

I'll look into the Penetrol, never dreamed it could be used to fill small voids and textures on the ply edges. How bout it Michael, mix tips?

 

Thanks guys.

 

I

Comment by Ryan Bruzan on December 30, 2011 at 11:19pm

Michael Campbell makes great points! Easier still, you can apply base cap molding upside down. All depends on the project, the final look you wish to achieve, the size of your budget and the capabilities of your tools and your ability to use them.

Penetrol http://www.flood.com/paint-additive-solutions/products/view-product.... This stuff is amazing and has many more quality factors than just smooth texture. Its ability to go where paint itself cannot usually go, such as minute crevices and pinholes, allows for great seal and protection while remaining strong and flexible once it dries. It can even be used in latex and acrylic paints. If you are not familiar with the product, I suggest playing with it and testing it first so you know the right mix for your desired application. I'm sure Mr. Campbell would be kind enough to elaborate on the best mix for different types of paints. 

Comment by Michael Campbell on December 30, 2011 at 8:28pm

B. Truck,  you can make an edge with either an ogee or a roundover bit on the router that looks nice on the edge of ply. Glue it and pin it in place.  I don't like edge tape, looks cheap.  When you paint it use pen-trol with your paint to get a smooth look.  good luck

Comment by Ryan Bruzan on December 30, 2011 at 8:06pm

You can either use birch or oak edge tape and paint it Freud EB010 13/16-Inch White Birch Edge Banding Tape or you can use polyester white edge tape Freud EB035 13/16-Inch Ski White Edge Banding Tape and don't have to paint it. You can apply with a dry household iron. Glue melts in a few seconds, but I use a block to press the tape down while it sets. You will need to run a few test pieces and familiarize yourself with the shaving process. I use a box cutter or palm plane, then sand paper to clean up the edges.

Or you could invest a few grand on an industrial bander! Good luck. Let me know if you have any more questions.  

Comment by B. Truck on December 30, 2011 at 8:33am

LOL.  Any chance you can remember what you did for edge treatment?  I am contemplating a similar set-up and am thinking about painting the plywood, but I'm not real sure how to treat the edges. Also, wondering what grade of ply I need if Im just going to paint?  Any thoughts?

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