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WHAT TABLE SAW DO YOU OWN ?AND WHAT DO YOU LIKE MOST ABOUT IT ? RATING OUT OF 5!

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 I got the jobsite 10" Craftsman table saw. I like it because I can fold it up out of the way. It also has a lock on the degree setting. I thought  was a great feature on a 10 inch table saw. If I ever decide to upgrade my saw. I would go with the Sawstop  contractors saw because of the safety feature it has. I am always careful but, you could get cauky  and I rather change the blade then change my way I do things because I don't have the use of some fingers. I would give my saw a 4. Because of the locking feature.
I used a Shop Smith for many years and thought it was pretty good till I got a Hitachi dedicated table saw.  A world of difference.  Only complaint is the blade angle and height adjustment wheels are a little difficult to use.  I haven't seen this available since they starting making it the same saw under the Porter Cable name.  They only changed the method of clamping the back end of the fence.   It came with a decent blade but I upgraded to blades from Freud and Forrest.  Wood comes off them as perfectly as if from a jointer.  I also made a outfeed table that is hinged so it drops down out of the way.  Very well worth the effort.
I too have the Ridgid r4510.  Love the saw.  Just one point of contention that I had earlier this week...I went to change out my saw blade to a Forest Woodworker II and discovered that the nut holding on the blade came off opposite of what the book said.  Other than that..the saw works like a champ!!
hmmmm, I will have to watch out for that, thnx for the heads up on the nut rotation

I have a Sawstop 3.0hp and to the earlier comment about the finger test...

 

I installed and Incra miter according to the directions, but when you turn it to a 45 degree angle it no longer clears the blade.  Yes, the Sawstop works as indicated.  There is a very small nick in the metal fence and after a ruined blade and a new brake, I won't make that mistake again.  Nevertheless, I still have all 10 of my fingers.

I hate to admit it, but I have a 10", 2 hp. craftsman contractors table saw, probily 15 yrs. old. Cuts straight, square and my thumb. Keep looking at a newer model, but this does a good job. Of course the right blade helps.

I also have a Delta 10" contractor saw #2000 series, added my router table. I bought it used on "kijiji" sell site. I had to re set the main works to make it cut true...but it was worth the extra time. Replaced the blade with a "Freud" 40 tooth.

 Was wondering if it is worth making my own 0 clearance insert out of 1/2 in ply or using the white plastic material like in cutting boards ?

Bill Steinfeldt here, what type of blade guard is on your saw. Mine is a split guard, the two halves move independently from each other and do not work after 4o degrees blade tilt. Sorry to say I got three fingers in mine. I would realy like to know what guard they used back then and does it work on extreem angles?

Donald Rice said:
I hate to admit it, but I have a 10", 2 hp. craftsman contractors table saw, probily 15 yrs. old. Cuts straight, square and my thumb. Keep looking at a newer model, but this does a good job. Of course the right blade helps.

Bill,

 

I'm not sure who you are asking about the guard, but my blade with 90 degrees (no tilt) when I hit my miter... I just didn't have the guard on it because I couldn't see the alignment with my material.  The material was about 14" wide and barely had the miter its notch.  I guess I should build a table sled and that would have prevented it.

If I read this right, you were working from the side the blade was tilted TOWARD??  I, personally, don't consider that a safe practice in it's own right.. I always work from the side the blade is tilted away from. True, you need to be alert for ride up but less chance of trapping stock under the blade./

Robert Gordon said:

Bill,

 

I'm not sure who you are asking about the guard, but my blade with 90 degrees (no tilt) when I hit my miter... I just didn't have the guard on it because I couldn't see the alignment with my material.  The material was about 14" wide and barely had the miter its notch.  I guess I should build a table sled and that would have prevented it.

I had my guard off when I got injured as well, mainely because it does not work at over 40 degrees. I was just wondering of they had changed the design in 15 years. My lovely wife Marjorie baught this Sears 10 In. contractors saw for me a couple of Christmases back. I like my saw a lot, it runs fine and I rip down reclaimed lumber up to 6 by 6 in. beams. Well be safe always. I have the piece of wood that I got hurt on in my shop as a reminder and I look at it DAILY.



Robert Gordon said:

Bill,

 

I'm not sure who you are asking about the guard, but my blade with 90 degrees (no tilt) when I hit my miter... I just didn't have the guard on it because I couldn't see the alignment with my material.  The material was about 14" wide and barely had the miter its notch.  I guess I should build a table sled and that would have prevented it.

I've done a lot of work with a Ryobi BTS 20. That was a nice little saw but when I "upgraded" to the BTS 21 things fell apart. I had already sold the 20 so went with the Ridgid 4510.  All I really need to add to the BTS 20 was a split subfence that was a bit taller with a t-track for feather boards and a INCRA V120 miter guage.

Patrick Pittman said:
I don't have anything nearly as powerful or elaborate as what all of you have... I have a Ryobi 10" direct-drive table saw.  Ya, I know...  don't I wish I had a real table saw?  But to be honest, this little saw has really amazed me.  I've ripped 2x4's and 4x4's, full sheets of plywood up to 3/4 thick (with the help of in and out-feed tables and it just keeps on going!  I would really like to have something bigger but I don't have a garage or even a cement slab to support anything bigger.  One day the budget will allow for a cement slab and a bigger saw but in the meantime, I'll just keep cutting, and cutting , and cutting....

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