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I am having a problem using a collor with a straight bit . 

Here is pictures of my project the last picture shows the problem. Here is the link https://kregjig.ning.com/photo/albums/rolltop-desk-build

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The only thing I  can think of causing the problem is the collar height is the same as the template . should I go to 3/4 mdf for pattern rather than 1/2.

Gary, 

Which direction were you traveling the router???---

clockwise or counterclockwise around the template???

At first glance, it appears the router and guide bushing moved away from the template.

Sometimes attributed by the direction of travel and the style of bit.

Using a straight bit, can contribute to this.

Taking too much material in each pass will contribute to problems.

The cutters on the bit, grab too much material---

resulting in the router & guide moving/pulling away from the template.

"Depth of cut"---it's best to make shallow passes---max of 1/4" in each pass, in softwoods, 1/8" in hardwoods.

The guide bushing must be snug to the template profile, during it's travel and direction.

When making grooves of such nature, I always use a spiral bit.

Ken I was going clockwise. I just thought about it suffering from a summer cold . I didn't clamp the work piece down justdouble sided the template to the piece. I fell foolish.

Hi Gary, routers have their own mind and If you allow them to have even a little amount of error in guiding them they will take a mile.  From looking at your photo I also agree that you allowed the router to move off the template.  This allowed the router to run with the grain of the wood resulting in a cut that is out of its intended direction. 

If you have the template firmly attached to the surface of your stock the router should have followed the template accurately providing that you are using the proper router techniques.  In order for this to happen you need to make sure that not only is the template firmly attached to the stock but the stock must also be held securely as any movement of that can cause you to pull the router off the template surface.

Where the difficulty lies is due to the fact that when you are the person that is holding and moving the router around a template it makes  you who is responsible to make sure that the router control is rock solid against the template surface and its speed of movement is even and only advanced in a speed that allows the bit to cut the material at an even pace.  You must hold this router flat and tight against the template surface to resist any sudden grab of the bit due to grain and or soft or hard spots in the material being cut.

One of the best techniques of cutting with a router and to maintain the best control is to pull the router towards you rather that pushing the router away from you.  This means when possible try to position your self so that you are pulling the router towards you.  As you pull the router towards you apply the sideway push to keep the template guide bushing against the template and when cutting around curves you must remember to continue the push towards the template.  Failure to do this will allow the router to run wild and thus comes off the template and brings the cut with it.

The direction of travel of this cut is very important as you want to advance the router in the direction of which causes the bit to cut into the wood.  If you travel in the opposite direction it makes the bit lift off the wood, thus lifting the router off your template.  The depth of cut is also important as the deeper the cut the more the router is going to resist your control. 

The condition of the cutting bit is important and in this case making a straight downward cut the best bit is a spiral bit that has an up cut that lifts the waste up and out of the cut.  The type of router is important as the best cuts are done using a router with a variable speed control so you can match the cut speed with the conditions of the material.  The wider the base of the router is, the better the control.  So this means that you will get the best control with the widest base plate that you can use.  A router that has enough power is also important as it is much easier to control the router placement with one that has enough power to cut through hard and soft spots with ease.  The speed changing from the loading of the router motor from hard places and then back to soft places cause the router to have a tendency to jerk so you must be able to overcome the routers attempts to move off the template.

The router templates must be smooth and allow a fluid type movement of the router as it moves around the shape of the template.  The template bushing must be tight in the routers base with a bit that cuts dead center with the template bushing otherwise you will get odd cuts as you move around the template shape.  Something here that is very important is that as you cut around a template a person has the tendency to rotate the router in the hand as it moves through the cut.  It is much better if you can keep the router in a "same position" and move it without changing the position of the router as you rotate around the cut.  The reason being is that when you start moving the router in your grasp you allow the router the ability to move off the template.

I often cut shapes with a bearing flush trim style bit that has the bearing on top of the bits cutting edges.  ( between the router motor and the cutting flutes of the bit)   These type bits are known as a "pattern makers" bit.  This means that if you do this you must have the template sized according to the bit diameter.  These bits yield the most accurate cuts due to the smooth and resistant free ability to track around the template.

Gary as a tip to you in cutting the track groove for the slat or tambour door you will need to pay special attention to the side of the groove that faces down (bottom of the tambour door) This is the most important side of the cut and it must be smooth and gradual with no humps or sudden changes as this will hang up you door.  You will find that you will need to open up the top side to the track groove at any place where there is a turn such as at the beginning of the roll over of the tambour at it extreme height and then again as it begins to go down behind the desk.  To do this use the large edge piece of your tambour door  ( sits on the desk at the closed position)  cut and shape the track upper side to allow this piece to go around the corners.

Your frame work looks good.  Any more questions or if you need any help please feel free to ask me.

I had not felt good the last couple days. I shoud not have been working because I did fell well. created alote extra work remaking the pieces.

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