kreg benchtop router table

[michael evans]

Hi all just road tested my kreg router table , i give it 8out of 10.

                                  PRO/s

Its well made with a nice flat table.

The insert plate top notch quality.

The plate levellers are a great idea.

Dust extraction via the fence seems to work well.

Assembly fairly simple good instructions.

                                 CON/s

Table should come with hold down brackets.

No nvr switch had too take off my old table and fit.

My biggest gripe is the fence why is it not self squareing like its bigger brother?

It is nice and flat but adjusting the fence a pain,i still have to use a combination square to get the fence perfect.

[Ken Darga]

Here's a very handy small router table---

ready to go---

includes router base and fence---

just attach your trim router

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=30716&site=ROCKLER

(Right now for $50!!!---can't be that price).

[Ken Darga]

For longer machine cuts on a router table

a.  make a suitable extension for your router table---one on each side of your table top.

Align and secure in place, so the surfaces are in one plane, for smooth travel of the workpiece.

b. add an auxiliary fence, of ''X'' inches long, 4 ft if need be---

clamp it to the present fence---( t-bolts and knobs, or the like).

Make a ''zero clearance'' cut in the aux fence, with the applicable router bit in place---

pivot the fence, to make the bit shape profile cut into the aux fence.

Alternate---for machining larger pieces and for pre-production or low volume work,

make a separate work top---

ex 4ft wide by 3 ft deep x 3/4 MDF--- (add cross members to the underside to prevent sagging).

Machine the larger table to facilitate a router and applicable base.

Use a separate base and affix your router to the base.

Machine a recess in the top to accommodate this router base.

(this style router base, or the like

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=19741&site=ROCKLER

This one is very handy---

drop right into a fitted opening.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5295&site=ROCKLER

Drop the router with the base affixed, in thru the top opening---

secure in-place.

Make a separate router table fence to facilitate the new larger table.

(The fence can be made from 3/4'' stock---2 pieces secured together at right angles.

The vertical member of 4-6'' and the horizontal member 3''.  (this size works nicely for machining larger pieces)

Secure the fence to the table using simple clamps---clamping the horizontal member of the fence to the table top.

Machine a ''zero clearance'' in the vertical member of the fence, with the applicable router bit,

for the desired project piece.

Works for me.

I also have a small router table, for the palm router, so as to perform shaping operations on smaller pieces.  I just clamp this little portable router table to my work bench, or other suitable work surface.

It also fit nicely on the tailgate of a pickup, outside picnic table, deck railing, saw horse stands, jaw-clamp stand, just to name a few.  I carry this little set-up with me on every job. 

(If your wife doesn't object, you could clamp to the kitchen table or counter top. Just keep a shop vac with dust chute close by).

[Ken Darga]

Mike,

Adjusting both knobs/clamps is necessary.

It's not a matter of being lazy---

it's a matter of learning the skilz.

Tweeking the fence is a MUST, for accurate results,

Practice on cut-0ffs. 

Practice makes perfect.

If a joint can't be made perfect,

make it adjustable.

[michael evans]

Hi Nick no idea if the self squareing fence would work on the smaller table,probably not because of its dimensions. This maybe a question for the good old [KREG REP] Also wether they have any plans to manufacture a self squareing fence for the small table,if not whats the reasoning behind it .As Ken said it maybe that a pivoting fence better,probably what the expert woodworkers would say.

[michael evans]

Appreciate the advice Ken.I guess i need to get out of my tablesaw habits.Iguess its me being lazy [having to adjust both knobs]have a good day .

[Ken Darga]

Mike,

How long did you have that unit, and how many roads tests did you perform, before you made your evaluation?

 

A router table fence, that is permitted to pivot, is the way to go.

The pivoting action is needed for most routing operations, and fine tuning for precise cuts.

A router table is not like a table saw, where you're only making straight cuts.

After you perform many routing operations, on that table, you'll understand where I'm coming from.

I can dial in to cuts that are paper thin---

can't get that with a fence, I think you're referencing.

Adjust the fence to where it's close---tighten down (hand tight) the left-side fastener---

followed by fine adjustments on the right-side fence, then secure/tighten the right-side fence.

Install a stop block behind the right-side fence, along with spacers---

such as ''file card'' stock.

File card stock (3x5) is .007/.008'' thk.

If thinner shims are needed, newspaper (.003'' thk) can be used.

 

[Nick Grillo]

Michael I agree with you on the self squaring fence. It would be a lot easier if they can provide one for the bench top. I'd pay extra for it. Do you know if the self squaring fence will work with ours?