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Boy I hate to ask these such obvious newbie questions, but I did do a search before I asked, and couldnt find a reference in the users guide.

 

When using the jig, are the measurments marked nominal or actual?  Same question when picking screw lengths?

 

Thanks

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They are for actual sizes. So, if you are using a 2x4, you will use the 1 1/2" setting.
Thanks for quick reply Jason. Better to ask than waste lumber I suppose.
Hard question as I used a Kreg plan that called for a specific size lumber and specific size screw. Because the lumber was actually thinner, ie 1 X 6 is actually 5/8" thick the screws did not set properly. I called Kreg and they said it didn't matter but I explained it certainly does even using their own designs. Bottom line is IF you can get an actual 1" thick piece use it or the screws WILL not do what they should, irregardless of what Kreg says.......Mike
Mike Swaga said:
Hard question as I used a Kreg plan that called for a specific size lumber and specific size screw. Because the lumber was actually thinner, ie 1 X 6 is actually 5/8" thick the screws did not set properly. I called Kreg and they said it didn't matter but I explained it certainly does even using their own designs. Bottom line is IF you can get an actual 1" thick piece use it or the screws WILL not do what they should, irregardless of what Kreg says.......Mike

I am surprised that they would say such a thing. I have only used the Jig twice, but already recognize that the actual thickness is critical to proper screw depth. Until I learn all the tricks I will certainly be doing some mock-ups to make sure I don't blow out the stock.
There is one very important consideration in this discussion...are you joining edge to edge or edge to face? Edge to face joints on lumber thinner than 3/4" are difficult because the screw bite is quite small, even when drilled at the proper setting. I have learned that the best trick to getting stronger edge to face joints is to use normal screws (not self drilling). This gives you 1/4" more thread grab. Edge to edge joints are much more forgiving but you need to use the actual size for setup.

James Howell said:
Mike Swaga said:
Hard question as I used a Kreg plan that called for a specific size lumber and specific size screw. Because the lumber was actually thinner, ie 1 X 6 is actually 5/8" thick the screws did not set properly. I called Kreg and they said it didn't matter but I explained it certainly does even using their own designs. Bottom line is IF you can get an actual 1" thick piece use it or the screws WILL not do what they should, irregardless of what Kreg says.......Mike

I am surprised that they would say such a thing. I have only used the Jig twice, but already recognize that the actual thickness is critical to proper screw depth. Until I learn all the tricks I will certainly be doing some mock-ups to make sure I don't blow out the stock.
Believe it or not I was making 4 sided "face" frames to circle my windows and doors to mount Christmas lights for easy up and down hanging. I was using ripped 1X4 pine, so I was edge joining 1 3/4 X 3/4 stock. I originally was going to just do lap joints but didn't want to hassle buying and setting up a dado blade on my Craftsman table saw. Once I precut all my pieces the jig made quick work. What I thought was originally going to be a whole weekend project turned into just one afternoon. I did have one issue when I didn't set the drill bit up properly, but the first few will still be ok to use since this project isn't exactly what you would call furniture quality. LOL

Steve Cvetetic said:
There is one very important consideration in this discussion...are you joining edge to edge or edge to face? Edge to face joints on lumber thinner than 3/4" are difficult because the screw bite is quite small, even when drilled at the proper setting. I have learned that the best trick to getting stronger edge to face joints is to use normal screws (not self drilling). This gives you 1/4" more thread grab. Edge to edge joints are much more forgiving but you need to use the actual size for setup.

James Howell said:
Mike Swaga said:
Hard question as I used a Kreg plan that called for a specific size lumber and specific size screw. Because the lumber was actually thinner, ie 1 X 6 is actually 5/8" thick the screws did not set properly. I called Kreg and they said it didn't matter but I explained it certainly does even using their own designs. Bottom line is IF you can get an actual 1" thick piece use it or the screws WILL not do what they should, irregardless of what Kreg says.......Mike

I am surprised that they would say such a thing. I have only used the Jig twice, but already recognize that the actual thickness is critical to proper screw depth. Until I learn all the tricks I will certainly be doing some mock-ups to make sure I don't blow out the stock.
Mike, Not sure why you're lumber is 5/8" when a "1 by" is actually a tad over 3/4". Sounds like you planed it down to 5/8" or just got a bad piece of wood.

James Howell said:
Believe it or not I was making 4 sided "face" frames to circle my windows and doors to mount Christmas lights for easy up and down hanging. I was using ripped 1X4 pine, so I was edge joining 1 3/4 X 3/4 stock. I originally was going to just do lap joints but didn't want to hassle buying and setting up a dado blade on my Craftsman table saw. Once I precut all my pieces the jig made quick work. What I thought was originally going to be a whole weekend project turned into just one afternoon. I did have one issue when I didn't set the drill bit up properly, but the first few will still be ok to use since this project isn't exactly what you would call furniture quality. LOL

Steve Cvetetic said:
There is one very important consideration in this discussion...are you joining edge to edge or edge to face? Edge to face joints on lumber thinner than 3/4" are difficult because the screw bite is quite small, even when drilled at the proper setting. I have learned that the best trick to getting stronger edge to face joints is to use normal screws (not self drilling). This gives you 1/4" more thread grab. Edge to edge joints are much more forgiving but you need to use the actual size for setup.

James Howell said:
Mike Swaga said:
Hard question as I used a Kreg plan that called for a specific size lumber and specific size screw. Because the lumber was actually thinner, ie 1 X 6 is actually 5/8" thick the screws did not set properly. I called Kreg and they said it didn't matter but I explained it certainly does even using their own designs. Bottom line is IF you can get an actual 1" thick piece use it or the screws WILL not do what they should, irregardless of what Kreg says.......Mike

I am surprised that they would say such a thing. I have only used the Jig twice, but already recognize that the actual thickness is critical to proper screw depth. Until I learn all the tricks I will certainly be doing some mock-ups to make sure I don't blow out the stock.
Add a little of your wood glue to the threads before screwing.

Steve Cvetetic said:
Mike, Not sure why you're lumber is 5/8" when a "1 by" is actually a tad over 3/4". Sounds like you planed it down to 5/8" or just got a bad piece of wood.

James Howell said:
Believe it or not I was making 4 sided "face" frames to circle my windows and doors to mount Christmas lights for easy up and down hanging. I was using ripped 1X4 pine, so I was edge joining 1 3/4 X 3/4 stock. I originally was going to just do lap joints but didn't want to hassle buying and setting up a dado blade on my Craftsman table saw. Once I precut all my pieces the jig made quick work. What I thought was originally going to be a whole weekend project turned into just one afternoon. I did have one issue when I didn't set the drill bit up properly, but the first few will still be ok to use since this project isn't exactly what you would call furniture quality. LOL

Steve Cvetetic said:
There is one very important consideration in this discussion...are you joining edge to edge or edge to face? Edge to face joints on lumber thinner than 3/4" are difficult because the screw bite is quite small, even when drilled at the proper setting. I have learned that the best trick to getting stronger edge to face joints is to use normal screws (not self drilling). This gives you 1/4" more thread grab. Edge to edge joints are much more forgiving but you need to use the actual size for setup.

James Howell said:
Mike Swaga said:
Hard question as I used a Kreg plan that called for a specific size lumber and specific size screw. Because the lumber was actually thinner, ie 1 X 6 is actually 5/8" thick the screws did not set properly. I called Kreg and they said it didn't matter but I explained it certainly does even using their own designs. Bottom line is IF you can get an actual 1" thick piece use it or the screws WILL not do what they should, irregardless of what Kreg says.......Mike

I am surprised that they would say such a thing. I have only used the Jig twice, but already recognize that the actual thickness is critical to proper screw depth. Until I learn all the tricks I will certainly be doing some mock-ups to make sure I don't blow out the stock.

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