Tags:
You slide them into the pocket hole with with angled side OUT and turned so it is parrallel to the face of the surface the hole went into. The plug WILL NOT sit flush, you will need to trim it flush with the workpiece. A flush cut saw works OK if you put some blue painters tape down so you do not end up scratching the workpiece.
And, oh yea, don't forget the glue!
That lasst reply was just about what I do .Watch my video
Kerry Drake said:You slide them into the pocket hole with with angled side OUT and turned so it is parrallel to the face of the surface the hole went into. The plug WILL NOT sit flush, you will need to trim it flush with the workpiece. A flush cut saw works OK if you put some blue painters tape down so you do not end up scratching the workpiece.
And, oh yea, don't forget the glue!
I did this and drilled 6 pocket holes close enough together to use a ROS to sand down all 4 at once. It worked great. Thanks for the idea.
Jerry Lee said:
I have a very easy and quick way of the installing and sanding of the plugs. I will list photo's soon,but for now what I do is buy the kreg plugs the closest to match my project.Then I take a scrap piece of hardwood the harder the better and drill a pocket hole in it with my kreg jig, then I place the plug in the hole that I made in the hardwood and using a belt sander with 220 grit paper I sand the plug down almost flush to the hardwood and remove it using a awl or knife point to pull it out.(Note always sand against the direction the plug goes in or it might pull out while sanding).Then pour wood glue in your real pocket hole and put some on the plug with your finger also,slide it in, clean up excess glue with wet rag, and then finish sanding it which is very minimal. I had the same problem as do many others,its like to much work trying to sand the whole thing down with it full size.Try it you will Love it. Thank's
New to the community and thanks for the tip. Doing that tomorrow.
Nick
Jerry Lee said:
I have a very easy and quick way of the installing and sanding of the plugs. I will list photo's soon,but for now what I do is buy the kreg plugs the closest to match my project.Then I take a scrap piece of hardwood the harder the better and drill a pocket hole in it with my kreg jig, then I place the plug in the hole that I made in the hardwood and using a belt sander with 220 grit paper I sand the plug down almost flush to the hardwood and remove it using a awl or knife point to pull it out.(Note always sand against the direction the plug goes in or it might pull out while sanding).Then pour wood glue in your real pocket hole and put some on the plug with your finger also,slide it in, clean up excess glue with wet rag, and then finish sanding it which is very minimal. I had the same problem as do many others,its like to much work trying to sand the whole thing down with it full size.Try it you will Love it. Thank's
Jerry Lee, this is a great tip. I just did this with 24 plugs using maple scrap, quick and easy, then inserted in pine table...all flush with minimal finish sanding needed. Thanks for sharing.
I use a oslicatiing multi-tool. The trick is to come at it the same way you drilled the pocket hole. This way the blade will get caught and will not lift up and you will not have to dig down to start the cut.
Maybe 4 seconds to cut down a plug flush. Then just a little finish sanding.
Here is a link to an example. His problem though is he is coming at it from the side. Slips off a few times and looks like he is marking up the cabinet while its cutting.
Thanks for the tip, Josh.
Some of those osci blades have a slight tooth set.
The tooth set will scratch the work-piece surface.
Some blades do more harm than good.
The blade shown in the video is stiffer than I like.
The operator does not appear to be holding the saw blade flush to the surface---
notice that it's slightly "up" at the trailing edge.
The saw teeth will scratch the work-piece surface.
If the teeth are slightly set, they can be hammered flat, using a brass-head hammer, using gently tabs.
Rest the back-side of the blade on a hard metal surface, such as a flat steel block/plate, or the like.
A flexible "flush" cutting saw blade performs best.
The flexible flush-cut "pull saws" work very nicely.
Joshua Russell said:
I use a oslicatiing multi-tool. The trick is to come at it the same way you drilled the pocket hole. This way the blade will get caught and will not lift up and you will not have to dig down to start the cut.
Maybe 4 seconds to cut down a plug flush. Then just a little finish sanding.
Here is a link to an example. His problem though is he is coming at it from the side. Slips off a few times and looks like he is marking up the cabinet while its cutting.
Ken I agree with everything you said. I will also mention that you will want offset blades. This way the fastener holding the blade on will not come into contact with the wood. I started out using a pull saw and although I think I have the patience to cut 30 or 40 plugs, I really do not.
For Technical Support, call 800-447-8638 or send a message. Reps are available Monday through Friday from 8am to 5pm (CST).
Started by Ken Kortch in Other Kreg® Products. Last reply by Brad Martin yesterday.
Started by Lynn Greff in General Woodworking. Last reply by Lynn Greff yesterday.
Started by Robert Melrose in Other Kreg® Products Apr 16.
Started by Robert Wolf in Beginners' Zone. Last reply by KregRep on Thursday.
Started by Dan Smith in Beginners' Zone. Last reply by Glen S Apr 9.
The Kreg Project Center is great by itself, but 2 KPC's are better than 1 when you want to set up a 12 ft. work station in a couple minutes.…
ContinuePosted by Glenn Revheim on April 5, 2018 at 5:57am — 1 Comment
The first thing I will do is set price aside and focus on the tool and why I bought the Domino.
I have orders for a few dining tables and chairs. I have made one prototype chair, while I have all the tools to make angled…
ContinuePosted by justin waldron on April 2, 2018 at 5:46am
© 2018 Created by KregRep.
Powered by
Badges | Report an Issue | Privacy Policy | Terms of Service