With all the accurate miter saws and table saws available and the Kreg Jig pocket screw system of today, the making of angled joints has allowed us to master the art of joining wood together.
Since building a cabinet that runs along a wall in a straight line requires little or no angle cutting of stock, other that the 90 degree cut to length and join with a pocket screw. Other configuration require the use of miters and angles. I was wondering what everyones method is for doing cabinet runs that twist and bend into angles like like 22 1/2 degrees, 45 degrees and or some other angle to fit a wall or build a custom cabinets run other than a straight line or a 90 degree bend. I know everyone has their own methods and it would be interesting to hear about everyone's approach to this problem.
Michael, sounds like a pretty good and sound method to me. There is several tricks in the work of building an angle cabinet and lots of different approaches to it. That is why I started this discussion as I though it would be interesting to know what others are doing when they build theirs.
I plan on waiting for a few others to publish their methods and then I will explain how I do mine using pocket screws and two cuts on the table saw.
My method of building angled cabinets is actually straight forward where I cut the required cabinet angle on one stick of the face frame and run it into a 90 degree joint using glue and pocket screws to secure the members. When using 13/16 stock the cutting of the angle and running it into a 90 degree stock the toe on the angle piece grows depending on the cut angle. To remedy this aline the inside pieces with other allowing the toe of the miter to extend out past the 90 degree piece secure the joint with the pocket screw and then sand and or cut the excess of the toe off. (refer to photo) .
When using 13/16 " stock the toe to heel will grow 3/8" on a 45 degree miter. A 22 1/2 degree miter the same stock grows less than 1/8 inch. The method above shows a miter for the outside of a cabinet angle so the make the inside just reverse the 90 degree piece to place the screw side in towards the toe of the miter. Aline in the same manner and then sand off the toe. This places the screws to the inside of the face frame. On the ou... Rule of thumb, run the screws into the mitered piece always boring the pocket holes into the 90 degree piece......................................... (more will follow)
(Angled cabinets continued:) In dealing with an angled cabinets the most ideal thing is to cut the miters and the 90 degree piece from the same stock of wood thus maintaining grain figures as well as color of wood. The same applies in the sheet goods as well as wide lumber. To make a miter turn in sheet goods or lumber mitered in the long grain cut, the same miter to 90 degree connection applies. To cut a stile in a mitered turn, use stock that is wider than the finished size of the two stiles. Cut the needed miter angle and then recut the waste from the stock into a 90 degree stock and attach the miter again allowing the toe of the miter to extend past the 90 degree stock and then sand or cut this off. The photo below is a 45 degree outside miter that you would use on the back of a cabinet. A 22 1/2 degree is done the same manner and if you match the grain you will make an almost invisable joint. The best part of this, it is done with two saw cuts, no cleats or backing pieces. It is flush on the inside and the outside and it is fastened with pocket screws and glue. Again to make a inside piece, just reverse the piece so the screws are on the side opposite that of what you want to be visable.
Another advantage to the method is that the miter joint tricks the eye. When you sand or cut the toe off at the face of the 90 degree piece and maintain that cut so that it is flush to 90 degree piece you fool the eye into looking at the corner where most expect the joint to be and it is not. It is actually located about 3/8 of an inch from the actually joint on 3/4 or 13/16 stock. You can also take advantage of this method by it allowing you the flexability to sand the corner round into a full bullnose style. There is no length to how long this joint can be and it does not matter what angle you make. You cut the miter and screw it into the 90 degree piece and you have a almost invisable joint, secured with glue and pocket screws.
It might sound tricky but it is really simple once you get behind the saw and cut a few pieces. You learn the method very quickly and find that you can make difficult cabinets very easy with two cuts on the saw, the miter cut and a matching 90 degree. Bore the pocket holes in the 90 degree piece and glue and screw the pocket screws into the miter. The big thing to remember is bore the holes on the opposite side that you want to expose. Need more information please ask. This is one of the most difficult things to do in cabinet or furniture building. It becomes easy and simple using this method.
Geoff, you asked for photo for an example of the mitered faceframe angle. Here is one done in Hickory. Look closely and you will see a 22 1/2 degree mitered joint on each side of the doors (two glass and two raise panels below the glass doors. Note the ability of this method of keeping the wood grain patterns.