Kreg Owners' Community

I own a neat-looking 90-degree Clamp [one end has a swivel base and the other clamping end [pin-like] fits into a Kreg-drilled hole].  I should have utilized my clamp in earlier projects, but I'm still learning. 

Question:  Has anyone had success using this Clamp in other than a 90-degree setting.  For instance, could I use it in securing some of my mitre cuts, ie: 45-degrees, etc.!

I just love using my Kreg K4 Master Jig and for those interested in making their very own storage box from the Kreg downloaded free plan....feel free to see my photos of my version of this plan [complete with comments].

I'm thinking of purchasing a second 90-degree Kreg Clamp to assist my future projects, and would be eager to hear input from fellow Kreg Community Members.

Thank you, from BC, Canada.  John

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John Tomkinson here.  I meant to type "Right-Angle Clamp".....still new at this.  John

I've had limited success to about 10 degrees from perpendicular.  Any more that than and the clamp pressure tends to cause the joint to slide apart.

Hi, Tim.  Thank you for your response.  I might try fashioning a 'jig' set-up to accommodate clamps and to reduce wider angles.  It's kinda fun to be creative, and with Kreg items, it makes diy ideas accessible.  All the best for this Holiday Season, Tim, from the Kootenays in BC, Canada.  'John'

Tim Grace said:

I've had limited success to about 10 degrees from perpendicular.  Any more that than and the clamp pressure tends to cause the joint to slide apart.


Place a "wedge" on the surface of the workpiece,

for the swivel clamp face to rest on.

To resist slippage of the wedge:

bond a sheet of slip-resistant material on wedge the face, that mates with the workpiece surface.

Slip resistant material, such as the waffle workbench type material, skate board slip resistant material, 

Just to name a couple types.


a. use hot-melt to secure the wedge in place---the wedge can be easily removed by prying it off, and the glue residue scraped off.

b. use a snippet of small diameter wire solder,

c. snippet of wire brad

d. small dia lead balls

e. double-stick tape

just to name a few.

Installing brads in the wedge face:

insert the brad about 1/4" deep

leave the head exposed

trim the brad down to the workpiece surface with diagonal cutting pliers,

this will leave a small pointed piece of the brad showing.

the brad point(s) will grip with the mating surface.

To minimize the little prick-punch marks in the workpiece, left by the brad points,

headless pin brads can be used.

They can be installed by pushing them into the wood, using pliers, then trimming them off, as described above.

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