I have been running into this frustration more and more lately. What is the best and most foolproof way to clamp stability into a joint so that it won't slip when putting in the pocket screw?
I use the Kreg Klamps, according to their instructions,
and don't have any problems.
The joints align perfectly.
Insure there is adequate clamping pressure, so as to stabilize the work-pieces, so the joint doesn't slip, before installing the screws.
Do you mean the one that fits inside the hole? That does work quite well, until I have a hole pattern that doesn't allow that clamp to be near enough to the one I am screwing.
The best rule of thumb when clamping your joint is to put the majority of your clamping pressure on the piece that is receiving the screw. This is the piece that will do any of your moving once the screw starts to enter it. If you have any other questions please let us know.
I use a 2 clamp system. First I clamp both pieces to my work bench typically with a padded "F" style clamp, placing the clamp over the joint between the piece with the pocket holes and the piece the screws will go into. This insures the faces of both pieces remain flat. Then I apply a second clamp positioned the same as if I was clamping the pieces together with glue and no screws. This insures neither piece will move when the screw is installed. This may seem like a lot of clamps, but it works for me.
Hope this helps, Don
If I were making a face frame or door the clamping would not be an issue. Where I am having a problem is edge to face like in making a carcass for a cabinet or a drawer box.
I clamped a runner along a line that I squared back off the face frame. Placed the divider against that runner & put the screws to it.
The clamp that fits into the pocket hole works,, as you know,, very well for attaching the divider to the face frame.
One other way to go about it for smaller items like drawers is to use your bar clamps & assemble the box like a glue-up. Nothing moves that way.
When assembling cabinet carcasses or similar projects requiring edge to face mounting I use corner squares from Rockler. I clamp the two pieces to the square to keep them aligned, both flush and square. I then still use a long clamp to hold the pieces together while driving the screws. Since the pocket holes are inside the carcass I use the assembly squares on the outside.
I came to use this process because I also glue my pocket hole joints, even though its not required. I have the pieces glued together before driving the screws. Once the screws are in I can release the clamps and use the screws to hold the pieces together while the glue dries.
Oh yes, besides the commercially available assembly squares Rockler sells they can also be shop made.
Screw two pieces of straight timber at 90 degrees on your workbench ,place frame in two the temporary frame clamp with downward pressure screw together.Hope this helps.
I use corner clamps on carcuses and kreg on face frames. I also seen some uses metal deck corner brackets and clamps. I am going to try.
I recall reading that, or a similar article, and had to verify it for myself.
I checked some typical stamped & formed angle braces, normally found at home centers---
I found the angles WERE NOT true 90 degrees.
The angles were measured using an accurate precision machinist square.
BTW---the angles can flex, depending on the amount of load they are subjected to.
The BEST I've found for assembly squareness, is using the "clamp-it" squares, offered by Rockler.
They're TRUE, of rigid construction, and feature reinforcing ribs.
These are my GO-TO squares for clamping frames, cabinet boxes, and the like.
Also available in the mini size.
Great for drawers, where the larger size is to big to fit inside of a box/frame.
Gary roofner said: