Settings for 1/2" material not working out

[Joe Ghatta]

I working with 1/2" (0.5") birch plywood and attempting to make some drawers.  Set my Kreg drill bit stop to 1/2" based on the gauge on the Kreg Jig, then set my drill bit 'guide' to the appropriate 1/2" marking for working with the 1/2" material.  After all my holes were drilled out, I first tried the 3/4" Fine Kreg screw but to no avail they were TOO SHORT and did not protruded enough to grip the perpendicular material.  I had some 1" fine kreg screws laying around and I tried these as well.  The 1" fine screw went all the way through the perpendicular material and blew out the the other side splitting the wood and protruding about 1/16". 

I realize I should be using the coarse screws for the plywood, but will it make that much difference with the 3/4" screw not being long enough to grip the perpendicular piece? 

I really don't want to make drawers out of 3/4" material

Can anyone help or have some suggestions?

[John Schaben]

Hi Joe - I've run into that also. The only thing I could figure out is to do some trial and error with scrap while fiddling with the depth collar setting. Need to do it on each 1/2" plywood project as plywood seems to vary significantly from batch to batch. 1/2" doesn't give a lot of wiggle room.

[Joe Ghatta]

I'll try some scrap pieces.  What screw size did you find to work best with this thickness (1" or .75")?  Thanks for the input!

John Schaben said:

Hi Joe - I've run into that also. The only thing I could figure out is to do some trial and error with scrap while fiddling with the depth collar setting. Need to do it on each 1/2" plywood project as plywood seems to vary significantly from batch to batch. 1/2" doesn't give a lot of wiggle room.

[John Schaben]

I adjust to the 1" length. IMO there isn't much stock left in the bottom of the pocket hole in the first place so didn't want to go deeper. Can always go to pan head screws if the washer heads start sticking out of the pocket.

[mo khan]

Hi Joe,

1/2" plywood is never actually 1/2". If you have a vernier scale, measure the plywood and see what the actual thickness is. For 1/2" stock you should use 1" screws (coarse for plywood) and if they are exiting the mating piece, then it definitely means that the plywood is not 1/2". If I'm building drawers with pocket holes, I always use 3/4" pine. If you insist on using 1/2" plywood, I suggest you rabbet the sides and pin them rather than use pocket holes or if you have the skill (or the jig), dovetail 'em!

[John Schaben]

Dovetails in plywood is another PIA unless you have gone to the very high dollar stuff. I found locking rabbets the best on 1/2" ply boxes and arguably as strong as dovetails.

mo khan said:

Hi Joe,

1/2" plywood is never actually 1/2". If you have a vernier scale, measure the plywood and see what the actual thickness is. For 1/2" stock you should use 1" screws (coarse for plywood) and if they are exiting the mating piece, then it definitely means that the plywood is not 1/2". If I'm building drawers with pocket holes, I always use 3/4" pine. If you insist on using 1/2" plywood, I suggest you rabbet the sides and pin them rather than use pocket holes or if you have the skill (or the jig), dovetail 'em!

[Joe Ghatta]

All, Thank you for all the great suggestions.  I'll will try some of these out, I also like the idea of the locking rabbet joints, they seem fairly easy to make.