Since my router will spend it's life under the table in a cabinet running smaller bits I didn't need the power and size. The smaller one has a better balance and feel in my smaller hands. I have tools from most all manufactures so some that work for me get used more. I spend a lot of time on research before buying on utube watching tools in use and watching how the operators hands move the tool to see how it would work for me. Tools can also get over engineered. you can get a pocket hole jig at the china knockoff outlet that makes really sloppy holes, or a high priced overfeatured unit that takes more to adjust when you move your workpiece when you use the Kreg jig simpler unit twice as fast with better results. There's my 2 cents, your results may vary.
Luke Troughton said:David,
Can I ask why you choose the MOF001 over the TRA001. Only a $20 price difference. Researching routers and router table is overwhelming. Nevermind when you get into accessories. It seems like it is never ending. I also see that amazon sells the whole combination router/table package.
Thanks again for the advice. I can use all the help I can get.
The Triton has several desired features that others do not. Plenty of power at 3 and 1/4 horse is enough to turn large bits with out bogging down. It has the soft start speed control on the router that easy to adjust. The adjustable through the table is a desirable feature and you can also adjust it from under the table depending on your likes and dislikes. The best feature that I have found to be desirable is the fact that the Triton pulls air in from the top and push it out from the bottom. Since it is a upside down when mounted in a table the Triton blows the dust out and away from the router motor rather that sucking it in. On my prior router table I had a hatachi mv 12 of which had plenty of power at also 3 and 1/4 horse and also the variable soft start speed using the included built in dial. The problem it was frequent filling up with chips and wood dust and require freguent cleaning out. The final death of the router motor was the speed control that was electronic and an expensive part that took about two weeks to obtain. The cause was the motor bound up with chips and when I turned it on one day it tried to start and made a big hum and immediately the electronic control smoked and died. That was the second time and caused by the same thing. Neither time did you have time to react to shut down even with your hand on the switch. I also found that the collet was often loose and galled the bit shanks with ease even though you took care and tighten the collet tight. The triton had a great collet that stays tight even with 3 inch dia bits in hickory and other hard and grain twisted lumber. I have has it now going on 8 years and never had a single problem with it and I use it every day in production of doors and other heavy routing tasks. I would recommend the Triton's and for the router table I would take the 3 and 1/4 hp model.
I would like to point out something about router bits. The 1/4 inch shank are not the best choice if you want consistent accuracy and a longer lasting bit. Everyone knows that the carbide edge bit are the ones to buy however that is something else that is often not considered when choosing bits. The very fact that routers spin an very high speeds and with this speed comes heat, the enemy of the cutting tool edges. With this comes stability against accuracy of the cutting surface on the shank on where or not it remains straight and accurate. This being said the 1/2 inch dia shank is the better choice as it has more metal to dissolve more heat quickly thus allowing a cooler bit cutting edge surface. It should also be noted that the larger shank grips in the collet better and also important is that the larger shank with absorb more vibration.
Dust collection is always a problem with control and if not controlled it can become a risky health problem and especially in later age. I have a dust collection system of which I have built up and it has improved my health to a noticeable degree. The guts of my system is a 3 hp Jet of which I have made additions to by piping the dust for the machines back top the dust collector. I am currently designing a complete rebuild of the system where I will be building a muli stage vortex cyclone system by building a sheet metal cone that fits the current parts of the jet. A cheap alternative is a dust collector from Harbor Freight of which is cheap enough but gives you the beginning of making the same system, although not the same amount of suction, but it is still sufficient to handle a small one man shop. Pintrest has several drawings and illustration basics on making a system. I highly encourage you to use some system to control dust as it does effect your health as well as a distraction to working wood as the dust becomes a dirty environment. It gets into you home from your clothing as well as any attached shop to the home it can become saturated through out your home through the circulation system of your heating and cooling systems.