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I made my 3rd project using my Kreg Jig this weekend.  I'm working on making the Pottery Barn kids storage unit but i have a question.  i made the seat top overhang the sides of the storage bench by 1".  however, i forgot to cut the angle that i wanted on the front edge before assembling and if i do it now my circular saw will cut into the sides of the bench.  so, i figure i will use my router and just do a round over on the front.  i don't have a round over bit yet for the router, so i am wondering what size i need for 18mm birch/maple plywood.  my router is a used one i picked up that uses 1/4" shank if that matters.  

 

i'm guessing that i will be able to setup some sort of guide board to run the router along the edge and do this.  any tips are greatly appreciated. 

 

 

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No problem, a roundover bit has a bearing on the end which rides against the wood and provides guidance, you don't need to rig a fence. The pic shows a beaded edge, you just adjust the bit height to where the bead isn't cut.

For 18mm stock, a 3/16 or 1/4" radius roundover would give a nice, smooth edge although if you hit some voids in the plywood you may need to fill before finishing.

Here is one source for bits

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pag...

 

I agree with John, 3/16 or 1/4" radius roundover will look great.  You will find that there are lots of choices of brands & places to buy them and everyone has their opinion as to which brand is best.  I always try to keep in mind that you get what you pay for.  Be sure & test on scrap wood & try different depths of cut to get the desired look.  If you do a search, i am sure you will find other discussion on this site about router bits.          Mandodad

Ya know, these days I think that more often than not, we don't get what we pay for. I'm going on two years with this set of roundovers, and I use the 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 a lot. I really didn't expect this much out of them, so much so I bought a set of CMT's that were on sale last thanksgiving to replace those three sizes. I still was using the eBay ones as of last nite... go figure

http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-pc-1-2-Shank-Round-Over-Beading-Router-Bi...

 

CMT's are still unused.

 

For the OP. I assume you have never used a roundover before and also assume that your router is fixed speed. I strongly suggest you practice on some scrap until thoroughly comfortable. The roundover will have a tendency to burn unless you can turn down the rpm or maintain a brisk feed rate. Since I am assuming you will not be able to reduce the router speed, I am recommending you practice until you can make the required passes quickly and confidently.

Mandodad said:

I agree with John, 3/16 or 1/4" radius roundover will look great.  You will find that there are lots of choices of brands & places to buy them and everyone has their opinion as to which brand is best.  I always try to keep in mind that you get what you pay for.  Be sure & test on scrap wood & try different depths of cut to get the desired look.  If you do a search, i am sure you will find other discussion on this site about router bits.          Mandodad

Hi Shawn I agree with Doug anytime I tried routing an edge on plywood I wound up dodging plywood shrapnel, The link that John sent you for MLCS is an excellent place to get router bits from. I live about 20 minutes away from them and just started using their bits and so far they have all been great, also they have free shipping.

Hope this helps

Thanks everyone for the info. Doug, will that bead trim stay put on the edge of a bench or will the kids climbing on it break it off?

Douglas Harwood said:

Shawn,

I would highly advise against using any type of router on plywood.  You can ruin your project.

Routers and plywood do not like each other.  You will splinter your piece and become very frustrated.

I would recommend you bite the bullet and go buy some nice 3/4 inch wide bead trim(that gives a nice

rounded over edge)take your time and 45 degree miter starting at one end of your project, I always work

from my left to right(that's just me).  Sneak up on your cuts and when you're satisfied simply glue the pieces

on the edge of your project and use blue painters tape for your clamps.  With a good glue, I like "Tightbond"

you shouldn't need to brad nail.  Lowes carries a nice bead and it will really set your project off and keep

your blood pressure down.

 

Been there, done that.

 

Regards,

Doug

"I would highly advise against using any type of router on plywood."

Yikes!!! Sure glad no one told me that a few years ago, I would never have gotten anything done. That's almost like saying you can't use pocket screws in plywood.

Fact is, most plywood machines pretty well. Furniture grades, like the OP listed usually machine very well. True, there are some things more difficult than others, dovetail joints are very difficult although I have managed some passable ones using backer boards, lock miter joints are, IMO, impossible if going across grain on the surface veneer. Lower quality plywood will give some issues because of the voids but those can usually be filled. I just did these signs this afternoon. Lettering was with a 3/8" roundnose and I used a 3/16" roundover/beading for the edge. The plywood was some scrap leftover from a shop drawer project and isn't Home Depots best by a long shot.

  



John Schaben said:

"I would highly advise against using any type of router on plywood."

Yikes!!! Sure glad no one told me that a few years ago, I would never have gotten anything done. That's almost like saying you can't use pocket screws in plywood.

Fact is, most plywood machines pretty well. Furniture grades, like the OP listed usually machine very well. True, there are some things more difficult than others, dovetail joints are very difficult although I have managed some passable ones using backer boards, lock miter joints are, IMO, impossible if going across grain on the surface veneer. Lower quality plywood will give some issues because of the voids but those can usually be filled. I just did these signs this afternoon. Lettering was with a 3/8" roundnose and I used a 3/16" roundover/beading for the edge. The plywood was some scrap leftover from a shop drawer project and isn't Home Depots best by a long shot.

  wow John I never had that kind of sucsess routing anything on plywood, They really look good, and I like the contrast in the colors.

Most will experience a lot of chip-out, in fir plywood.

 

TIP:  make shallow passes, until you achieve the desired dimensions.

Sometimes in 1/16'' increments is necessary.

 

Wood filler is effective, to fill the undesirable voids.

 

A filler can be made from the sawdust/shaving, of the base wood---mix it with some glue---

make it into a paste/putty-like form, and pack it in the void(s).

Make smooth with an appropriate tool, allow to dry, and sand smooth.

Shawn,

Bead trim can be attached via ''spline joinery''---

glue and clamp in place.

 

shawn said:

Thanks everyone for the info. Doug, will that bead trim stay put on the edge of a bench or will the kids climbing on it break it off?

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