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 I receintly purchased a Kreg precision miter gauge and im having troubles with setting it. I thought my saw was out so I chalked the fence and ran it up tight to the blade so i could spin by hand and slid back to check.The pattern is pretty consistant half moon.

 If I use the nylon shoes on the bottom of the tool,they catch the table edge and I have to bump the tool to get it to move.Kinda dangerous when the saw is running.And it also binds in the miter groove because of the over hang past the runner.I have to push down straight to get it to slide nice.My saw is a Ridgid contractor saw with a 12/36 top.

 when I miter gauge on 45 and pin it Im usually greater 90 deg.I have a Kreg framing table and if glued and screwed I have quite gap on the last corner.I shouldn't have to use the 1/10 scale just to make a sm square frame.

 Has anybody come across this problem? Was this a waste of money?

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I haven't got the Kreg miter guage but my INCRA V120 has some adjustments built in to dial it in to a perfect 90° and the runner has adjustment cams to take any slop out of the rail. I would think the Kreg would have similar.

I have the Kreg miter gauge and it was dead on right out of the box. I assume you meant your rip fence is square with the blade. Is your blade square with the miter slot? If it's not, it doesn't matter whose miter gauge you use, it will give you fits. It also makes your saw more dangerous to use. Are you pulling the miter gauge back so far that the nylon buttons leave the table? 

I just got this the other day so im tring to dial it in . If I do and angle cut and i have to pull the tool back far enough to clear the blade.Then those nylon buttons are off the table,so whe i slide ahead and the button catchs the edge so then i have to bump it to get it over.Im going to try something differant before I get to excited.But my biggest concern is I cant get a perfect 90.



Hugh Clare said:

I have the Kreg miter gauge and it was dead on right out of the box. I assume you meant your rip fence is square with the blade. Is your blade square with the miter slot? If it's not, it doesn't matter whose miter gauge you use, it will give you fits. It also makes your saw more dangerous to use. Are you pulling the miter gauge back so far that the nylon buttons leave the table? 


it has nylon buttons that adj in and out to take up the play in the miter slot. I just cant the perfect 90.I just got it and im just playin with it right now tring to figure it out.But so far it not true with my saw
John Schaben said:

I haven't got the Kreg miter guage but my INCRA V120 has some adjustments built in to dial it in to a perfect 90° and the runner has adjustment cams to take any slop out of the rail. I would think the Kreg would have similar.

Perry,

Check your table saw---

the miter slot needs to be parallel to the saw blade, before truing up the miter gauge.

The nylon guide bar play adjustment is different than the 90° adjustment,, at least on the INCRA. There are 4 screws, button head cap screws actually, on the head of the miter guage.  I lock the guage at 90° on the scale, loosen those 4 screws and adjust the head. The guide bar should be adjusted first to get all the slop out there and then set the head to the blade. As posted before though, all this is contingent on the basic setup of the saw being correct.

perry macphee said:


it has nylon buttons that adj in and out to take up the play in the miter slot. I just cant the perfect 90.I just got it and im just playin with it right now tring to figure it out.But so far it not true with my saw
John Schaben said:

I haven't got the Kreg miter guage but my INCRA V120 has some adjustments built in to dial it in to a perfect 90° and the runner has adjustment cams to take any slop out of the rail. I would think the Kreg would have similar.

well thanks for the input you guys. Me chalking the fence wasnt close enough.I incorperated a dial indicator on my kreg tool and slid across the blade pushing the tool to one side and found I was out .010 the length of the blade,starting  and stopping between the teeth ,and readjusted my trunion and got it within .003.doesn't sound like much but on 8 cuts to make a square it made quite a differance.Now I gotta find some shim stalk cause after readjustment ,I have soft leg in my trunion mount and it binds when i go to bevel the blade. Thats what you get when you only buy midium grade from over seas.Easy fix..once again thanks

Automotive feeler gauges are very handy---

useful to make accurate adjustments.

I just went and dialed in the truion again and got if even closer.Had to the guide for the tipping the blade bound up and I could only get 25 degrees .Redid it and got it some close.After buying a saw you sure see the flaws.I had a Craftsman with stamped table extensions and I could not keep that thing straight,sold it and bought a Ridgid,Now I see the flaws in this one.But it severs the purpose and built heavier then thee last one  

Ken Darga said:

Automotive feeler gauges are very handy---

useful to make accurate adjustments.

I bought the kreg miter guage last fall, the chrome wheel with a screw threw it on the bottom on the end won't allow it to fit in the miter gauge slot is it ok to remove the wheel?

I have a sears craftsman table saw older model table steel stand and table saw came together.

I know metal stand don't matter mentioned it thought might explain better table saw model ;l have.

Looking at buying a new table saw anyway, any certain brand or model that will accept miter guage out of the box allowinmg it to slide back forth as it should.

What is your view of the kreg precision router table and it there just the one model/

thanks jim

James,

The "wheel" is there to keep the miter gauge from tipping when you have a T-shaped miter slot. I think I remember filing mine a little to get it to fit better. If you don't have a T-shaped slot, you don't have any choice but to remove it. I would save it for when you have a better saw, though.

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