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Pocket hole joinery for 1 3/4" thick stock - building door for flat track system

I am a big fan of my Kreg jig and use this joinery whenever possible. My current project takes me outside the stated 1 1/2" thickness max and I am wondering if others have used pocket hole joinery on thicker stock and any tips on ensuring success.

I am installing a flat track system above a large interior doorway oepning. The door dimensions: 76" wide x 82" tall. The hardware requires a minimum door thickness of 1 3/4". Weight limitation is 300 lbs. I am still tweaking the final plans, but one of the goals is to make it acoustically dampening if possible. Therefore, my current plan is to build with 6" wide rails and stiles of poplar (will be painting) and for the panels I am thinking of pancaking 1" thick insulation sheets between a layer of beadboard fascia on each side - hoping these panels will help decrease sound transmission as well as keep the door as light as possible.

I don't own a mortise and tenoning jig, nor do I have big enough clamps to adequately glue and clamp a door this large, which is another reason why using pocket hole joinery would be great. Does anyone see glaring design issue problems that I am missing, and is pocket hole joinery the way to go with this project? Thanks for any insights or thoughts.

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Thanks for your quick reply, Doug. I should add that I don't own enough clamps to do the piggyback thing on something this big - maybe across one corner, but probably not both, which isn't ideal when going for square. :). I figure I can invest in more clamps and possibly some mortising jig (or spend time making one), or go for loose tenon joinery like beadlock, or go with pocket holes. Having no experience in door making, I am really open to other suggestions if there is a better way to go with this. It's definitely an experiment, which is the fun part, but I'm used to them working out. Not feeling quite so confident on this one, particularly with the size and weight - I don't want it coming apart on me down the road . . .

K Rich,

For a door that size and weight, I'd recommend the ''mortise & tenon'' joinery.

It's among the strongest joints in woodworking.

The frame construction needs to be strong.

Make the mortise and tenon, 1/2 the thickness of the door---

which would equal 7/8'' for a 1-3/4'' thick door---

3/4'' will suffice.

Make the tenon engagement of at least 1''.

Make the tenon with a shoulder.

a stopped mortise-and-tenon joint

Mark the mortise on your board.

Choose a drill bit that matches the width of your mortise as closely as possible (without going over).

Set the depth of cut on the tool.

Drilling slowly, make your first hole at one end of the mortise.

Make the next pass at the other end of the mortise.

Drill/chisel out the rest of the mortise.

Clean the hole up with a chisel.

  Cut the tenon with table saw, miter slide saw, circular hand saw or router.

(A Japanese style flush cutting hand saw can also to used).  

Use a miter gauge.

Mark the cut on both sides of the board to be tenoned.

Set the depth of cut to the required thickness--- the tenon to be centered in the board.

Turn the board over and do the other side.

Clean up the tenon with a sharp chisel.

  The tenon needs to fit in the mortise without being tight or binding---slip-in fit is desired---don't use a sledge hammer).

  Glue-up with Titebond III.  This material has a longer set time, which is beneficial for larger pieces/joints.

  Clamping:  use 3/4'' pipe clamps.

  For the 76'' wide door, I'd recommend additional 6'' wide vertical stile members, 

you'll have 4 equally spaced stiles, with 3 equally sized wide panels.

  CAUTION: An 82'' high door, will end up warping/bowing.

  alternate door design---

A.  1/2'' plywood, with 1x6 wood frame around the perimeter, and on both side of the plywood.

1/2'' plus 3/4 + 3/4 will result in a total thickness of 2''.

B.  1/4'' plywood, with 3/4'' stock on each side and then install 1x6 cross members---

akin to a big ''X" with a frame surround.

1/4'' plywood is lighter in weight.

  Rigid insulation board can be installed, on both sides, so as to provide a sound barrier. 

C. 1x6 framework---covered with a sheet of 1/4'' hardboard, on each side and rigid insulation board inside, between the openings in the frame.

D.  Hollow-core doors, fastened together, side-by-side.

Think about this? Get 3/4" stock and 1" stock and sandwich them together. Make a set of rabbited rails and stiles out of 3/4" material and a set of 1" material with the rails and stiles alternating in length. You can use pocket holes & screws to join the rails and stiles together and then you will have added strength when the joints overlap.

You will not need any large clamps to make the glue up of the sandwiched rails and stiles. Your inslation board will have to be added before making the sandwich. (I would consider using cabinet laminates for the outside portion to cover the insluation board). If needed you can add a breadboard edge to the top for your sliding door hardware.

Gary

 

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