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Anyone have plans for a table saw stand?

I'd like to set it up on a stand, probably with lockable casters, and leave it attached. I can mock up something myself, but just wondering if anyone has a plan kicking around for this already.

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Derek,

Stands are handy, but I find a cabinet base for in the shop use, more beneficial.

Open frame stand on casters

or 

enclosed with drawers

Small stand with drawers

larger size with drawers and door.

Top with enlarged surface area. 

Thanks Ken; I was thinking about a simple stand, but I like the idea of the enlarged surface area. I have a small bench saw, so the idea of a larger base is appealing. The only thing is that sometimes the saw travels back and forth to my cottage, so I was thinking of something that could detach or break down. Then again, maybe the thing to do is build the stand so that the saw can be removed easily.

Or...maybe it's time to break down and buy a better saw and move the old one to the cottage permanently!

Hi Derek,

Thanks for your timely reply.

When using the table saw at various job sites,

a mobile folding stand are handy.

They take up little space and store well.

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Personally, I use a couple different types---

A SkillShop Delux Model 2200 and a Black and Decker WorkMate.

They fold up and store flat, are useful for many tasks.

They're useful as a bench tool stand, for painting, cutting or using as a workbench or sawhorse. The one-handed clamp system allows clamps to be adjusted together or individually.

A portable table saw, or the like, can be clamped to the work top.

The legs on the this B&D style folds down, which will lower the table saw surface.

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(Pic shown is of a newer model B&D.  I have an older model, a lot more heavy-duty). 

The SkillShop Delux model 2200 has telescoping tubular legs, for adjusting the work surface height.

(Sorry I don't have a photo at this time.  This model was discontinued---bummer---the best portable workbench on the market.  It is a real HEAVY-DUTY bench.  A cast base with integral storage for legs, bench dogs and other tools.  It features 2'' dia tubular tele legs that locks at 6'' intervals, adjustable clamping table, bench dogs, plus several other nice features.  I presume it got phased out because of the high costs and with the introduction of cheaper work stands that came onto the market).

Folding stands such as shown.  

(These style stand can be obtained from auto body tool shops.  Rated 500lb capacity).

Light weight, folds and stores flat, adjustable working height.

Astro Portable Folding Work Stand 500 lb. Capacity - 557003 

A platform can be affixed to the top on the stand and a table saw fastened securely.

A platform can consist of 3/4 PW, 2x6 stock, or the like.

I use 2 of these in tandom, when working larger and longer pieces, such as doors, and the like.

A sheet of PW can be added atop the frame, and make for a larger work surface area.

Thanks ken for sharing such a useful information.A table saw is the most common piece of large woodworking equipment found in shops around the world. Table saw are very versatile, and if you can only have one piece of woodworking equipment, a rigid table saw is probably the best one to choose. These more portable types of table saws offer versatility and ease of use with the convenience of portability.

Derek,

I making plans, (sketches on napkins), for a mobile stand,

to accommodate a Bosch GTS1031.

Design concept:

Top surface to extend to the left, right and back of the table, to provide a longer work surface area.

Back extension ''hinged'', fold-down, with locking feature.

Back extension, lift-up and lock, to increase the working surface area, as needed.

Open shelf area, in the uppermost area under the top, on the left and right side, for an at-the-ready tool storage.

Pull-out tray(s) for saw blade storage.

Drawers on left and right side.

Cabinet door(s) in center, below table saw.

4 swivel casters with brakes, facilitate mobility.

 

Materials:

3/4" PW for the main enclosure.

Cabinet counter-top material for the top.

Drawers: 1/2'' PW.  

Drawers slides on the underside of the bottom most deeper drawers.

BE CAREFUL.  My workshop is extremely small, so I have a DeWalt jobsite saw that I picked up refurbished from TookKing for a steal.  When I first got it, I fashioned a base for it using an old heavy-duty keyboard stand (from my music days) that held a 100-pound Alesis weighted 88-key synthesizer.  I made a nice heavy top for it, and the first time I ripped down a full sheet of plywood, the leverage on the long piece was enough to cause the whole thing to nearly tip over, which could have gotten SUPER UGLY real fast.  Now, when I need to make table saw cuts, the saw comes down off its shelf (where it has to live because I don't have the floorspace) and I put it on a carpet with non-slip backing on the garage floor, make my cuts, then put it away.  Whatever you buy or make, realize that with so much weight near the top, that when you put a long, heavy piece on it, with the edge close to the edge of the saw table, there will be enormous force helping the thing tip over.  If you build a cabinet, best thing to put in the bottom drawer is three 80-pound bags of cement or sand, then make sure the saw is firmly bolted to the weighted stand/cabinet.  Flying wood off a table saw sucks.  A flying table saw is unthinkable.

Good points, Russ. That's exactly the reason why I wanted to build a stand; I've usually been putting the saw either on my B&D workmate, or on a couple of sawhorses with a couple of pieces of 2x10's between them. Neither is particularly safe or stable. Like you, workshop space is at a premium, but so are fingers and toes.  :-)

Russ Haynes said:

BE CAREFUL.  My workshop is extremely small, so I have a DeWalt jobsite saw that I picked up refurbished from TookKing for a steal.  When I first got it, I fashioned a base for it using an old

I put a job sight saw on this stand, with the legs folded in,

and fastened the table saw to the top, to prevent it from shifting.

After giving the table saw some ''tilt'' tests,

I conclude this new stand is not stable enough, if one intends to cut larger stuff, 

unless a 60lb bag of cement or sand bag is placed on the lower frame member, to insure it won't tip.

Also, an outfeed support is needed for ripping longer stock. 

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This tube type sand filled bag is useful.

Place it on the stand lower shelf

QUIKRETE 60 lbs Sand

Alternate counter weight:

3 gal bucket, filled with sand or pea gravel, and fitted with a lid.



Ken Darga said:

This tube type sand filled bag is useful.

Place it on the stand lower shelf

QUIKRETE 60 lbs Sand

I modified the plans for the basic 2x4 workbench to hold my job site table saw at about the same height as my work bench.  Then added castors to make it mobile around my garage.

 

Scott -- that's the same saw I have.  Is that a ZCI on yours?  Did you make it from scratch?  I made mine from a piece of phenolic I ordered from Rockler -- major pain in the ass.  Was wondering if you had any better luck with a different method.  Problem I found was that the tabs that it wasn't a consistent 1/2" from the table to the bottom of the tabs that hold up the insert so there was a lot of grinding the spots where the insert sits on the tabs with a dremel.

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