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I am wanting to build an octogon planter box. 8 sides. At what angle do I cut the ends to meet and form the octogon circle? Thanks in advance for any help.

Teresa

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Teresa, the answer is 22&1/2 degrees on each end or side of equal length or width of stock. The method I use in figuring angles cuts on miters is as follows:   360 degrees is a full circle.  In your case you are wanting to make a eight sided object using miters.  This means you are using 8 equal lengths of stock.  A miter on each end means there is 16 cuts to make.  Take the 16 cuts and divide it into 360 degrees and you arrive at the miter angle of 22 &1/2 degrees.  If you are making a cylinger type object that stand up on end and has a debth greater than that of common 3/4 inch material the miters would be made by ripping the equal sized stock at 22&1/2 degrees.  This formula works on any number of sides you are building for instance a 10 sided object is cut  at 18 degrees.    10 pieces of stock is 20 cuts  divide 360 by 20 and the answer is 18 degrees.

You might be interested in reading three different post that I posted dealing with miters and curves.  They were on: April 26, 2011  April 27, 2011 and Feb 22. 2011.  The one on Feb 22nd is one dealing with turning corners in cabinets with angles.  It can be applied to what you are planning however allows you to make the curves in a different manner that will allow you to use a kreg screw if the octogon is large enough to allow you to get a drill driver inside of the circle.  Hope this helps you with your project.  Octogon planter boxes sound pretty interesting as Spring is upon us.

 

22.5

Hi, Jay, new guy on the block here. My wife wants an 8 sided planter also so you answer to Teresa was great to read. I will be using 2 x 12 stock to make it. Seeing as I will be joining mitered ends do I use the same length Kreg screws as if the joints were not mitered?

Jay Boutwell said:

Teresa, the answer is 22&1/2 degrees on each end or side of equal length or width of stock. The method I use in figuring angles cuts on miters is as follows:   360 degrees is a full circle.  In your case you are wanting to make a eight sided object using miters.  This means you are using 8 equal lengths of stock.  A miter on each end means there is 16 cuts to make.  Take the 16 cuts and divide it into 360 degrees and you arrive at the miter angle of 22 &1/2 degrees.  If you are making a cylinger type object that stand up on end and has a debth greater than that of common 3/4 inch material the miters would be made by ripping the equal sized stock at 22&1/2 degrees.  This formula works on any number of sides you are building for instance a 10 sided object is cut  at 18 degrees.    10 pieces of stock is 20 cuts  divide 360 by 20 and the answer is 18 degrees.

You might be interested in reading three different post that I posted dealing with miters and curves.  They were on: April 26, 2011  April 27, 2011 and Feb 22. 2011.  The one on Feb 22nd is one dealing with turning corners in cabinets with angles.  It can be applied to what you are planning however allows you to make the curves in a different manner that will allow you to use a kreg screw if the octogon is large enough to allow you to get a drill driver inside of the circle.  Hope this helps you with your project.  Octogon planter boxes sound pretty interesting as Spring is upon us.

 

Hi Duane, I am glad that you have joined us here of the community and have found some useful information to assist you on one of your projects,  Working with miters is always a fun experience and cutting a miter to make a turn in wood can be challanging and a rewarding experience.  To answer you question I have used a 2 inch long screw in miters when using 2 x stock.  The 22 & 1/2 degree cut in an eight sided joint gives you approximately a 1 inch penetration into the adjointing piece.  There is still enough meat left beyond the threaded end of the screw to use a 2 1/4 inche screw but will become thin if you attempt to use a 2& 1/2 inch long screw.

 

The thing about doing the joint using the method that I have described in my posts allows an easy way to build a eight sided piece.  Just remember that you are boring the pocket hole in the 90 degree piece and screwing the screw into the miter.  Each of the eight sided pieces will have on miter and one 90 degree cut.   The size of the object is mainly determined by the length of the piece and changes rapidly so it is best to determine the length using some scrap. 

 When assenmbling the joint, It is very improtant to keep the inside or the heel of the miter flush with each adjointing piece and once the piece is completed then cut off the protruding end of the miter (toe).  
 This angle of cut will cause you to have to cut or sand off approximately 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch off the toe to bring the sides flush.  Something to note when you do this is that it helps to conceal the miter by fooling the eye as you will look at the very point where you expect the joint to be and it is not there.  In a sense it moves the eye to a point where the joint is actually not there but about an 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch back from the point where the angle turns.   Enjoy and work safely,  any questions feel free to contact me.
Duane Heda said:

Hi, Jay, new guy on the block here. My wife wants an 8 sided planter also so you answer to Teresa was great to read. I will be using 2 x 12 stock to make it. Seeing as I will be joining mitered ends do I use the same length Kreg screws as if the joints were not mitered?

Jay Boutwell said:

Teresa, the answer is 22&1/2 degrees on each end or side of equal length or width of stock. The method I use in figuring angles cuts on miters is as follows:   360 degrees is a full circle.  In your case you are wanting to make a eight sided object using miters.  This means you are using 8 equal lengths of stock.  A miter on each end means there is 16 cuts to make.  Take the 16 cuts and divide it into 360 degrees and you arrive at the miter angle of 22 &1/2 degrees.  If you are making a cylinger type object that stand up on end and has a debth greater than that of common 3/4 inch material the miters would be made by ripping the equal sized stock at 22&1/2 degrees.  This formula works on any number of sides you are building for instance a 10 sided object is cut  at 18 degrees.    10 pieces of stock is 20 cuts  divide 360 by 20 and the answer is 18 degrees.

You might be interested in reading three different post that I posted dealing with miters and curves.  They were on: April 26, 2011  April 27, 2011 and Feb 22. 2011.  The one on Feb 22nd is one dealing with turning corners in cabinets with angles.  It can be applied to what you are planning however allows you to make the curves in a different manner that will allow you to use a kreg screw if the octogon is large enough to allow you to get a drill driver inside of the circle.  Hope this helps you with your project.  Octogon planter boxes sound pretty interesting as Spring is upon us.

 

Hi, Jay,

Thanks for your reply, it was very helpful!! I have another question for you. Is there a way to figure out what length to cut the eight pieces  for a certain size octagon?  I saw one method but not all eight pieces are cut the same length, which in my simple brain they would all be equal.

Duane



Jay Boutwell said:

Hi Duane, I am glad that you have joined us here of the community and have found some useful information to assist you on one of your projects,  Working with miters is always a fun experience and cutting a miter to make a turn in wood can be challanging and a rewarding experience.  To answer you question I have used a 2 inch long screw in miters when using 2 x stock.  The 22 & 1/2 degree cut in an eight sided joint gives you approximately a 1 inch penetration into the adjointing piece.  There is still enough meat left beyond the threaded end of the screw to use a 2 1/4 inche screw but will become thin if you attempt to use a 2& 1/2 inch long screw.

 

The thing about doing the joint using the method that I have described in my posts allows an easy way to build a eight sided piece.  Just remember that you are boring the pocket hole in the 90 degree piece and screwing the screw into the miter.  Each of the eight sided pieces will have on miter and one 90 degree cut.   The size of the object is mainly determined by the length of the piece and changes rapidly so it is best to determine the length using some scrap. 

 When assenmbling the joint, It is very improtant to keep the inside or the heel of the miter flush with each adjointing piece and once the piece is completed then cut off the protruding end of the miter (toe).  
 This angle of cut will cause you to have to cut or sand off approximately 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch off the toe to bring the sides flush.  Something to note when you do this is that it helps to conceal the miter by fooling the eye as you will look at the very point where you expect the joint to be and it is not there.  In a sense it moves the eye to a point where the joint is actually not there but about an 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch back from the point where the angle turns.   Enjoy and work safely,  any questions feel free to contact me.
Duane Heda said:

Hi, Jay, new guy on the block here. My wife wants an 8 sided planter also so you answer to Teresa was great to read. I will be using 2 x 12 stock to make it. Seeing as I will be joining mitered ends do I use the same length Kreg screws as if the joints were not mitered?

Jay Boutwell said:

Teresa, the answer is 22&1/2 degrees on each end or side of equal length or width of stock. The method I use in figuring angles cuts on miters is as follows:   360 degrees is a full circle.  In your case you are wanting to make a eight sided object using miters.  This means you are using 8 equal lengths of stock.  A miter on each end means there is 16 cuts to make.  Take the 16 cuts and divide it into 360 degrees and you arrive at the miter angle of 22 &1/2 degrees.  If you are making a cylinger type object that stand up on end and has a debth greater than that of common 3/4 inch material the miters would be made by ripping the equal sized stock at 22&1/2 degrees.  This formula works on any number of sides you are building for instance a 10 sided object is cut  at 18 degrees.    10 pieces of stock is 20 cuts  divide 360 by 20 and the answer is 18 degrees.

You might be interested in reading three different post that I posted dealing with miters and curves.  They were on: April 26, 2011  April 27, 2011 and Feb 22. 2011.  The one on Feb 22nd is one dealing with turning corners in cabinets with angles.  It can be applied to what you are planning however allows you to make the curves in a different manner that will allow you to use a kreg screw if the octogon is large enough to allow you to get a drill driver inside of the circle.  Hope this helps you with your project.  Octogon planter boxes sound pretty interesting as Spring is upon us.

 

Duane, Like I mentioned in my post this is a hard one to figure with out using some scrap wood of which is the same thickness and cutting it to be near the size that you want the Octagon to be.  Cut the eight pieces of what you believe will render enough material to make the octagon and the lay them out in the configuration to be.  You lay them out keeping the inside lined up flush.  This is known as the heel of the miter.  Remember that you are cutting the miter on one end only.  Once you can see the size that the cuts you have made give you, then you can see that you either have to add to the length or remove from the length.    Since you know you will be loosing between 1/8 & 3/16"  (you can see the amount by the amount the toe extends past the 90 degree piece ) on each of the miter ends at the toe.  If the octagon is 1 inch over size remove 8 times the amount that you see that overhangs the 90 degree end of its adjoining piece.  You will do the opposite if it is undersized.

However if you know the inside size, cut the 22 & 1/2 degree on each piece and measure the length of the octagon inside piece at the heel of the miter to the point where the adjoining miter will attach, and cut it there.   It is important to know here that all pieces must be of equal thickness.    However since you are using 2 x12 I assume that the material is actually 1 & 1/2 by 11 & 1/2 inches  and if you are running the pieces on edge be sure that all of these are 1 & 1/2 inches thick.   Since it is the edge that we are concerned with you can use 3/4 " thick scrap as long as you cut it to 1 & 1/2 inches wide. 

It may sound complicated and time consuming but it is actually quick and easy.  If you still have a problem with it send me the size and how you are building it and I will send you back the measurements. In working with miters just remember the long point of the miter is known as the toe and the short length is the heel of the miter.  The accuracy of miters depends on precise measurements as well as thickness of material being equal.
 
Jay Boutwell said:

Hi Duane, I am glad that you have joined us here of the community and have found some useful information to assist you on one of your projects,  Working with miters is always a fun experience and cutting a miter to make a turn in wood can be challanging and a rewarding experience.  To answer you question I have used a 2 inch long screw in miters when using 2 x stock.  The 22 & 1/2 degree cut in an eight sided joint gives you approximately a 1 inch penetration into the adjointing piece.  There is still enough meat left beyond the threaded end of the screw to use a 2 1/4 inche screw but will become thin if you attempt to use a 2& 1/2 inch long screw.

 

The thing about doing the joint using the method that I have described in my posts allows an easy way to build a eight sided piece.  Just remember that you are boring the pocket hole in the 90 degree piece and screwing the screw into the miter.  Each of the eight sided pieces will have on miter and one 90 degree cut.   The size of the object is mainly determined by the length of the piece and changes rapidly so it is best to determine the length using some scrap. 

 When assenmbling the joint, It is very improtant to keep the inside or the heel of the miter flush with each adjointing piece and once the piece is completed then cut off the protruding end of the miter (toe).  
 This angle of cut will cause you to have to cut or sand off approximately 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch off the toe to bring the sides flush.  Something to note when you do this is that it helps to conceal the miter by fooling the eye as you will look at the very point where you expect the joint to be and it is not there.  In a sense it moves the eye to a point where the joint is actually not there but about an 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch back from the point where the angle turns.   Enjoy and work safely,  any questions feel free to contact me.
Duane Heda said:

Hi, Jay, new guy on the block here. My wife wants an 8 sided planter also so you answer to Teresa was great to read. I will be using 2 x 12 stock to make it. Seeing as I will be joining mitered ends do I use the same length Kreg screws as if the joints were not mitered?

Jay Boutwell said:

Teresa, the answer is 22&1/2 degrees on each end or side of equal length or width of stock. The method I use in figuring angles cuts on miters is as follows:   360 degrees is a full circle.  In your case you are wanting to make a eight sided object using miters.  This means you are using 8 equal lengths of stock.  A miter on each end means there is 16 cuts to make.  Take the 16 cuts and divide it into 360 degrees and you arrive at the miter angle of 22 &1/2 degrees.  If you are making a cylinger type object that stand up on end and has a debth greater than that of common 3/4 inch material the miters would be made by ripping the equal sized stock at 22&1/2 degrees.  This formula works on any number of sides you are building for instance a 10 sided object is cut  at 18 degrees.    10 pieces of stock is 20 cuts  divide 360 by 20 and the answer is 18 degrees.

You might be interested in reading three different post that I posted dealing with miters and curves.  They were on: April 26, 2011  April 27, 2011 and Feb 22. 2011.  The one on Feb 22nd is one dealing with turning corners in cabinets with angles.  It can be applied to what you are planning however allows you to make the curves in a different manner that will allow you to use a kreg screw if the octogon is large enough to allow you to get a drill driver inside of the circle.  Hope this helps you with your project.  Octogon planter boxes sound pretty interesting as Spring is upon us.

 

For accurate measurements and cuts, an accurate measuring device is the way to go.

For precise scribed/marked lines, a scribing knife is best.

A sharp utility knife will work; however, the blades are sharpened at a bevel, therefore, the knife blade should be tilted outward to compensate for the bevel on the blade.

Scribing knives are single bevel cut.  Make the scribed mark with flat side against the measuring tool.

Round scribes are an alternate marking tool, and will produce accurate marked lines when properly used.

Wood pencils are okay for marking for rough cutting.

Mechanical pencils, such as the Pentel Drafting pencils, are very useful---

available in

0.5 for a very fine line

0.7 for slightly thicker line

and 0.9mm for even wider lines.

A 2mm pencil is benefical for some uses, for wider lines.

Use HB lead for most uses. 

When making miter cuts, I prefer to make the piece slightly overside---

followed by "sneaking up" to the scribed line by trimming the object to the scribed line.

This can accomplished on a table saw, miter saw, band saw, or hand plane.

When using a hand plane, a shoot board is needed to plane flush, square and in a straight line. 

Hi Jay,

Thanks for the detailed info you have given me. I do not see any problems biting me in the butt because of your help.

Once again, Thanks!!!

Duane



Jay Boutwell said:

Duane, Like I mentioned in my post this is a hard one to figure with out using some scrap wood of which is the same thickness and cutting it to be near the size that you want the Octagon to be.  Cut the eight pieces of what you believe will render enough material to make the octagon and the lay them out in the configuration to be.  You lay them out keeping the inside lined up flush.  This is known as the heel of the miter.  Remember that you are cutting the miter on one end only.  Once you can see the size that the cuts you have made give you, then you can see that you either have to add to the length or remove from the length.    Since you know you will be loosing between 1/8 & 3/16"  (you can see the amount by the amount the toe extends past the 90 degree piece ) on each of the miter ends at the toe.  If the octagon is 1 inch over size remove 8 times the amount that you see that overhangs the 90 degree end of its adjoining piece.  You will do the opposite if it is undersized.

However if you know the inside size, cut the 22 & 1/2 degree on each piece and measure the length of the octagon inside piece at the heel of the miter to the point where the adjoining miter will attach, and cut it there.   It is important to know here that all pieces must be of equal thickness.    However since you are using 2 x12 I assume that the material is actually 1 & 1/2 by 11 & 1/2 inches  and if you are running the pieces on edge be sure that all of these are 1 & 1/2 inches thick.   Since it is the edge that we are concerned with you can use 3/4 " thick scrap as long as you cut it to 1 & 1/2 inches wide. 

It may sound complicated and time consuming but it is actually quick and easy.  If you still have a problem with it send me the size and how you are building it and I will send you back the measurements. In working with miters just remember the long point of the miter is known as the toe and the short length is the heel of the miter.  The accuracy of miters depends on precise measurements as well as thickness of material being equal.
 
Jay Boutwell said:

Hi Duane, I am glad that you have joined us here of the community and have found some useful information to assist you on one of your projects,  Working with miters is always a fun experience and cutting a miter to make a turn in wood can be challanging and a rewarding experience.  To answer you question I have used a 2 inch long screw in miters when using 2 x stock.  The 22 & 1/2 degree cut in an eight sided joint gives you approximately a 1 inch penetration into the adjointing piece.  There is still enough meat left beyond the threaded end of the screw to use a 2 1/4 inche screw but will become thin if you attempt to use a 2& 1/2 inch long screw.

 

The thing about doing the joint using the method that I have described in my posts allows an easy way to build a eight sided piece.  Just remember that you are boring the pocket hole in the 90 degree piece and screwing the screw into the miter.  Each of the eight sided pieces will have on miter and one 90 degree cut.   The size of the object is mainly determined by the length of the piece and changes rapidly so it is best to determine the length using some scrap. 

 When assenmbling the joint, It is very improtant to keep the inside or the heel of the miter flush with each adjointing piece and once the piece is completed then cut off the protruding end of the miter (toe).  
 This angle of cut will cause you to have to cut or sand off approximately 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch off the toe to bring the sides flush.  Something to note when you do this is that it helps to conceal the miter by fooling the eye as you will look at the very point where you expect the joint to be and it is not there.  In a sense it moves the eye to a point where the joint is actually not there but about an 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch back from the point where the angle turns.   Enjoy and work safely,  any questions feel free to contact me.
Duane Heda said:

Hi, Jay, new guy on the block here. My wife wants an 8 sided planter also so you answer to Teresa was great to read. I will be using 2 x 12 stock to make it. Seeing as I will be joining mitered ends do I use the same length Kreg screws as if the joints were not mitered?

Jay Boutwell said:

Teresa, the answer is 22&1/2 degrees on each end or side of equal length or width of stock. The method I use in figuring angles cuts on miters is as follows:   360 degrees is a full circle.  In your case you are wanting to make a eight sided object using miters.  This means you are using 8 equal lengths of stock.  A miter on each end means there is 16 cuts to make.  Take the 16 cuts and divide it into 360 degrees and you arrive at the miter angle of 22 &1/2 degrees.  If you are making a cylinger type object that stand up on end and has a debth greater than that of common 3/4 inch material the miters would be made by ripping the equal sized stock at 22&1/2 degrees.  This formula works on any number of sides you are building for instance a 10 sided object is cut  at 18 degrees.    10 pieces of stock is 20 cuts  divide 360 by 20 and the answer is 18 degrees.

You might be interested in reading three different post that I posted dealing with miters and curves.  They were on: April 26, 2011  April 27, 2011 and Feb 22. 2011.  The one on Feb 22nd is one dealing with turning corners in cabinets with angles.  It can be applied to what you are planning however allows you to make the curves in a different manner that will allow you to use a kreg screw if the octogon is large enough to allow you to get a drill driver inside of the circle.  Hope this helps you with your project.  Octogon planter boxes sound pretty interesting as Spring is upon us.

 

Duane, you are most welcome and I am glad I could be of some help to you.  Feel free to contact me at any time on any of your questions. Enjoy your project and above all work safely.



Duane Heda said:

Hi Jay,

Thanks for the detailed info you have given me. I do not see any problems biting me in the butt because of your help.

Once again, Thanks!!!

Duane



Jay Boutwell said:

Duane, Like I mentioned in my post this is a hard one to figure with out using some scrap wood of which is the same thickness and cutting it to be near the size that you want the Octagon to be.  Cut the eight pieces of what you believe will render enough material to make the octagon and the lay them out in the configuration to be.  You lay them out keeping the inside lined up flush.  This is known as the heel of the miter.  Remember that you are cutting the miter on one end only.  Once you can see the size that the cuts you have made give you, then you can see that you either have to add to the length or remove from the length.    Since you know you will be loosing between 1/8 & 3/16"  (you can see the amount by the amount the toe extends past the 90 degree piece ) on each of the miter ends at the toe.  If the octagon is 1 inch over size remove 8 times the amount that you see that overhangs the 90 degree end of its adjoining piece.  You will do the opposite if it is undersized.

However if you know the inside size, cut the 22 & 1/2 degree on each piece and measure the length of the octagon inside piece at the heel of the miter to the point where the adjoining miter will attach, and cut it there.   It is important to know here that all pieces must be of equal thickness.    However since you are using 2 x12 I assume that the material is actually 1 & 1/2 by 11 & 1/2 inches  and if you are running the pieces on edge be sure that all of these are 1 & 1/2 inches thick.   Since it is the edge that we are concerned with you can use 3/4 " thick scrap as long as you cut it to 1 & 1/2 inches wide. 

It may sound complicated and time consuming but it is actually quick and easy.  If you still have a problem with it send me the size and how you are building it and I will send you back the measurements. In working with miters just remember the long point of the miter is known as the toe and the short length is the heel of the miter.  The accuracy of miters depends on precise measurements as well as thickness of material being equal.
 
Jay Boutwell said:

Hi Duane, I am glad that you have joined us here of the community and have found some useful information to assist you on one of your projects,  Working with miters is always a fun experience and cutting a miter to make a turn in wood can be challanging and a rewarding experience.  To answer you question I have used a 2 inch long screw in miters when using 2 x stock.  The 22 & 1/2 degree cut in an eight sided joint gives you approximately a 1 inch penetration into the adjointing piece.  There is still enough meat left beyond the threaded end of the screw to use a 2 1/4 inche screw but will become thin if you attempt to use a 2& 1/2 inch long screw.

 

The thing about doing the joint using the method that I have described in my posts allows an easy way to build a eight sided piece.  Just remember that you are boring the pocket hole in the 90 degree piece and screwing the screw into the miter.  Each of the eight sided pieces will have on miter and one 90 degree cut.   The size of the object is mainly determined by the length of the piece and changes rapidly so it is best to determine the length using some scrap. 

 When assenmbling the joint, It is very improtant to keep the inside or the heel of the miter flush with each adjointing piece and once the piece is completed then cut off the protruding end of the miter (toe).  
 This angle of cut will cause you to have to cut or sand off approximately 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch off the toe to bring the sides flush.  Something to note when you do this is that it helps to conceal the miter by fooling the eye as you will look at the very point where you expect the joint to be and it is not there.  In a sense it moves the eye to a point where the joint is actually not there but about an 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch back from the point where the angle turns.   Enjoy and work safely,  any questions feel free to contact me.
Duane Heda said:

Hi, Jay, new guy on the block here. My wife wants an 8 sided planter also so you answer to Teresa was great to read. I will be using 2 x 12 stock to make it. Seeing as I will be joining mitered ends do I use the same length Kreg screws as if the joints were not mitered?

Jay Boutwell said:

Teresa, the answer is 22&1/2 degrees on each end or side of equal length or width of stock. The method I use in figuring angles cuts on miters is as follows:   360 degrees is a full circle.  In your case you are wanting to make a eight sided object using miters.  This means you are using 8 equal lengths of stock.  A miter on each end means there is 16 cuts to make.  Take the 16 cuts and divide it into 360 degrees and you arrive at the miter angle of 22 &1/2 degrees.  If you are making a cylinger type object that stand up on end and has a debth greater than that of common 3/4 inch material the miters would be made by ripping the equal sized stock at 22&1/2 degrees.  This formula works on any number of sides you are building for instance a 10 sided object is cut  at 18 degrees.    10 pieces of stock is 20 cuts  divide 360 by 20 and the answer is 18 degrees.

You might be interested in reading three different post that I posted dealing with miters and curves.  They were on: April 26, 2011  April 27, 2011 and Feb 22. 2011.  The one on Feb 22nd is one dealing with turning corners in cabinets with angles.  It can be applied to what you are planning however allows you to make the curves in a different manner that will allow you to use a kreg screw if the octogon is large enough to allow you to get a drill driver inside of the circle.  Hope this helps you with your project.  Octogon planter boxes sound pretty interesting as Spring is upon us.

 

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