Kreg Owners' Community

I have come across a pristine K2 Master and am excited to build projects, It seems to have everything it is supposed to even a blue plastic 2 hole portable.

The face clam seems a little small to hold the blue portable to 2x4s in the center.

The directions are a bit light and there are no depth guides with the product. 

I will mostly to start with connect 2x4 to 2x4 and 2x4 to 3/4 stock.  I found the screw size and type chart which answers my questions about connecting material that has the same thickness.

How do I determine the screew length for connecting stock to other stock with a different thickness?

Also how do I determine drill depth?

Thanks

Eric Palmer

Views: 6198

Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

Can you take a picture it would help.

Go to the regular Kreg website and look at the Master System.  There is a link at the bottom of the page for the owner's manual.  I assume it's like my Kreg Jr. manual and will contain all of the information you need.  Good luck!

Hello Eric! :)

Now you said "K2", are you sure it's not "K3" or "K4"?

I found a users manual for the K2, just click on link below....

K2

...it tells you how to set your drill bit for different sizes and probably other info you might need. It's in PDF format and you can save it to your hard drive to perhaps print out for future use.

As for connecting 2x4 to 3/4" stock you should be able to do it. Just try it on some scraps using 3/4" settings. Use 1 1/4" screws and make sure they don't extrude out the 3/4" board.

thanks jame's that was cool.

James Waller said:

Hello Eric! :)

Now you said "K2", are you sure it's not "K3" or "K4"?

I found a users manual for the K2, just click on link below....

K2

...it tells you how to set your drill bit for different sizes and probably other info you might need. It's in PDF format and you can save it to your hard drive to perhaps print out for future use.

As for connecting 2x4 to 3/4" stock you should be able to do it. Just try it on some scraps using 3/4" settings. Use 1 1/4" screws and make sure they don't extrude out the 3/4" board.

Awesome.  The manual helps a lot.  I'll post some pictures later as well.  We are going to build a work bench soon.

Eric

That is a great manual, thanks!

Yall are very welcome!

As always if you not sure, try it on scraps before ruining your project.

Again the instructions are very helpful. I have confirmed that I do have the k2 Master kit.  I have attached a picture of the portable that came with it and the two additional blue pieces.  I'm not sure what to do with the two small pieces.

I did go out and buy a new Kreg K3DGB K3 Drill Guide Block and Kreg KPDGB Jig Portable Drill Guide Base On Saturday. My daughter and I put together the frame for the workbench project yesterday. It was so much fun.  We will put the MDF top on it this week and then paint it.  

I'm so glad to be using the Kreg Jig system.

Eric

Attachments:

Sorry about the upside down picture. Pictures from my phone sometimes do that. Grrrrr.


Eric

" I'm not sure what to do with the two small pieces."

From reading the manual, it looks like the smaller block is used in the jig when using 1/2" material and the larger block is used to raise the guide for 1 1/2" material.

Hard to tell what the pieces look like exactly from the top. Also could you provide a image of the K2 to help determine if that is what the 2 pieces are for.

I found this image of the different jigs Kreg has come out with, which one you have...K2 or K2000?

I myself have the K3MS.

Hi Eric. I have been using kreg jigs since they were first introduced.  From what I have seen in your photos what you have is a k2000 pro set and made into a k2000master when the rocket jig containing three pieces was added.  This is the the three pieces you posted in your last photo.

I own the k2 which is all aluminum and definately different than the k2000 which was the upgrade from the k2.  I own both the k2 and the k2000 which through a promotional, added the  rocket jig and the small single clamp on jig with it to make what they began to call the k2000 master.  They are actually well designed however was a little sparce on directions.  Over the years I have figured them out.    In the following photos I will try to explain them. 

 

 

This photo is the contents of the k2000 package.  Showing is the main body and the two wings used to support your material. 

The two pieces just above the main body and the clamps is the 1 1/2 " riser used to bore 2x4 (1 & 1/2 inch material) and the 1/2 inch riser to bore 1/2" material.  The wings worked by screwing down the body to a bench or plywood and then the two wings on each side.  In these wings there is a drill setting guide showing where to set your drill bit collar to the size of material you are boring.  There is also the main drill guide shown just above the lower pictured wing.  Above that is two different length of thumb scews to attach the parts.  The short one is to attach the drill guide which will bore the 3/4 inch material and the long thumb screw is to attach the 1 1/2" riser block.  It goes between the main body and under the drill guide. This positions the drill guide to bore the 2 x4 material (1 1/2 inch thick material) You set the dirll bit to bore 1 1/2" and adjust the clamp in the main body to hold the material.

To bore the 1/2"  material you add the 1/2 spacer to the main body and in front of the drill guide.  The drill guide needs to be in the 3/4" material mode using the short attaching thumb screw. The small riser will sit infront of the drill guide with the tabs downward.  The only other thing is to set the drill bit collar to bore 1/2" material and adjust the clamp to hold the stock.

 

Photos shows the Jig set for a 2 x 4 and shows the 1 1/2 inch riser block attached with the long thumb screw  The small seperated piece shown in the lower portion is the 1/2" riser.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Photo on the right shows the jig set for boring 1/2 inch material.  To prepare the base for this you have to have the drill guide attached to the base using the short thumb screw.  The 1/2 inch riser is set in front of the drill guide.  The clamp is postioned to hold the material and the drill bit is set for the 1/2 material.  My finger is pointing to the 1/2 inch riser.

   

 

 

Photo showing the jig set for boring 3/4 inch material.  Note the short thumb screw is used and there is no spacers under the drill guide.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Photos shows the "ROCKET" which was a three piece unit with and 4 screws.  The main body is made for boring the 3/4" material as it is.  You set the guide with the bottom edge at the extream bottom of the material you are boring and clamp it with the face frame clamp.

To bore a 2x4 you add the larger of the two risers usign the two long screws and screw it into the base through the two holes provided.  Clamp it to the bottom of the 2x4 you are boring (where the screws exit) set the bit and bore.  You set the bit using the guide on the wings fo the main k2000 pro jig.

To bore the 1/2 inch material attach the small riser the same way as you did the larger riser.  Set up and bore the in the same manner.  

 

On the main jig I have a short cut for setting the drill bit debth that will work with out fail providing that you have the drill guide and base prepared for drilling the 3/4 ", 1 1/2", or 1/2" first.  Simply set the drill bit into the guide and then set a common nickel coin on the base.  Set the drill on top of the nickel and tighten the stop collar.  On the rocket jigs you set it the drill bit debth using the main jig.  The Rocket was designed for portable use and is not exactly the best but better that none when you have no choice and can not get the big jig into a tight place.

 

 

Showing how to set drill bit using a nickel.  I do this on all of the Kreg jigs and have no problem with trying to set the bit.  This is on assured method of not boring through your jig base.

 

Hop this helps you with your questions. On thing I did not cover is using the small one hole jig.  I do not reccomend it on materials other than 3/4" as trying to set the bit in not as accurate as using the large jig.  You can set it using the setting on the large jig but I have found it not to be trustworthy other than on 3/4" material.

Reply to Discussion

RSS

Need Help?

For Technical Support, please call 800-447-8638 or send a message. Reps are available Monday through Friday from 8am to 5pm CST. 

Videos

  • Add Videos
  • View All

Forum

Jig settings for 2 ¾ x 1 ½ boards with 30 degree miters?

I making a hex ring out of 2x4s ripped to 2 ¾ inches wide with 30 degree miters.  What setting on the Jig should I used? 1 ½ is too much.  Thanks.Continue

Started by Patrick Halinski in Kreg Jig® Operation Dec 30, 2023.

40mm Cup Hinge Jig Question

Hi All.....I have the 35mm Kreg Jig hinge drill guide. The guide is great for 35mm Hinge Cups, but I have a speciality 40MM hinge cup to drill.Has anyone adapted the Kreg guide to work with 40mm Forsner drill bits? Or have a guide that works…Continue

Started by Ed Anderson in Beginners' Zone Oct 3, 2023.

Product Reviews

New Kreg 720Pro

I saw the video Kreg put out for this new jig and had high hopes for it.

I purchased one today and am very disappointed with it.

First the docking station is extremely cheap. The plastic is pathetic. A Lego has more…

Continue

Posted by Duke Leon on February 15, 2021 at 9:00pm

Not Pleased With Pocket Hole Construction

Several months ago, I purchased the Kreg K4MS so that I could build the Lego Table as outlined on the companion "buildsomething" web site which exclusively uses pocket hole construction.  I have considerable experience with conventional…

Continue

Posted by Robert Ringel on September 17, 2020 at 1:48pm — 9 Comments

© 2024   Created by KregRep.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Privacy Policy  |  Terms of Service

_