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Is it possible to use pocket holes to join 45 degree miters

I am making coffee table I would like to join the four solid red oak panels together to make a rectangle using 45 degree miters.  I was wondering if anyone every had any success use the pocket hole jig for joining miters.  I have been playing around with it in my garage and have been having not much luck finding the best placement of the depth collar and the correct length of screw to make a nice, tight, strong joint.  I am using 3/4" material.  Please Help and input would be great.

Thanks

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You just set for 3/4 stock and lay the angle cut flat to the krieg jig the hard part is find where you have enough material to drill your pockets for full depth.
Believe me I would love to just join all the corners together sqaure, but my wife is a freak about seeing the end grain. It does stain alot darker and is noticable. I tried talking her into finger joint corners or even a fancy dovestail, but no luck. Women just don't seem to understand, but I pick my battles and unfortunatley this one isn't worth it.

Robert Melrose said:
Only if you want the pocket holes on the outside. Then set the jig so that the short side of the miter is you reference point but drill from the other side. It will work but it wasn't meant for this typ of joinery. If you are using solid oak why miter it? There is no plywood to hide. You can also join them with a fixo biscuit. Do a search for Lamello Fixo.
http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/Main/Public/Articles/Skill_Builde...
Scroll down to the half lap miter joint. It should meet your needs.
Better yet, get a wife that appreciates whatever you make for her.
the half lap miter joint is a great idea!
I just found this video that shows you how to easily cut a half lap miter joint.

www.woodsmith.com/issues/167/videos/mitered-half-lap-joints/
I use my pocket hole jig to join 45 degree cuts all the time building barn wood picture frames and I use it to join all the way down to 2 3/4 inch stock. The main thing is to make sure that your pockets are ligned up so that your holes dont start where you dont want them. Try it on some scrap first. The other crucial step is to make sure your angles are truly 45 degrees and that each length of your material is the same length. I use stops on my cut off saw to ensure exact reproducable cuts and I also use a ripping jig on my table saw to ensure I have an exact straight edge to cut my 45s from. good luck hope this helps.
Blake
I am joining the panels together as a box. I don't believe you can actually get a nice solid joint with a pocket hole jig in this situation. I tried in the garage for hours. I beleive the best soluion I heard so far was from you Robert and that is the lock miter router bit. Thank you all for time and if anyone can think of any other ways I could use to join these panels on a 45 I am all ears.
Thanks again everyone and espesially Robert.

Robert Melrose said:
So Darrin, Just so I have it correctly. Are you joining the panels together like a box or are you joining them together like a picture frame? All the other replies are assuming you are making a picture frame miter. A half lap miter won't work for panels.
The kreg screw packages has the propper screw length for the thickness of material you are using. The propper screw for 3/4 inch stock is 1 1/4" length screw. they also reccomend you using a fine thread screw for hard woods and a coarse screw for soft woods. The other tip is when setting the depth for your drill bit to have the handle of the jig all the way forward so as to clear the clamping part of the jig. Learned that one from a couple of blown holes. I love my Jig and I use it all the time in my operation. good luck!

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