Kreg Owners' Community

Hey folks!

 

I'm new to this whole Kreg thing as well as a new woodcrafter.

 

I want to build new cabinets for my kitchen and I have been searching the web for designs, tips, etc...

 

I came across a pro cabinet makers site and many of the people writing thought that Kreg was good to ok for doing face frames but did not think much of the cases being produced with the Kreg system.  Mostly it seemed that they had cases fail, or start to fail, after a few years of use.  There were also some comments about the joinery loosening up after a bit, especially if there was no glue.

 

Just wondering about the success and longevity members here have had.  I really like the concept of the system and want to be sure of the results before I put in all the time, money, and effort.

 

Thanks for your honest responses,

 

brotherbd

Views: 12746

Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

i have built several custom cabinets, an entertainment center and a desk. some have glue in joints, others dont. so far i have not seen any issues. if you are concerned about it "failing" just make sure you use glue. My entertainment center has been beatin' and battered by my two kids and so far it had held up with no issues.
Well, I’m no professional cabinet maker, just an amateur with a few tools and the love for making things out of wood. I built a set of face frame cabinets for a friend’s box van. He is a professional dog handler and travels all around the country in his truck with his dogs.

I built him six standard hanging kitchen cabinets using Kreg joints for the frames and cases. I did glue the joints as I was worried about things vibrating apart going down the road. They are hung on the wall just like you would hang them in your kitchen. The cabinets get very rough use and bounce around in a rough riding truck for tens of thousands of miles every year. They are holding up well and show no signs of failure.
Being in the cabinet profession for the last 34 years, I feel confident that I can lay rest to his fears of cabinet joint failure. That being said, many cabinet manufacturers use a Kreg type joint for their face frames. I have never seen a failed face frame joint but have taken many apart in order to modify a factory built cabinet. Of the factory joints, most have glue in the joint. Now, moving on to the cabinet "box", this is where the failure occurs 99% of the time. I most definately recommend putting a "hang rail" of 1"x4" solid wood material on the inside back of the cabinet, up against the top and flush with both sides of the wall cabinets. Fasten this piece from the outside back, top and both sides of the cabinet with GLUE and fastners. This is where the pressure is put on the cabinet. If you don't mind a little less room on the bottom shelf of the cabinet, you can do it here also, but the top is the most important location. If done properly, this cabinet construction will last longer than yourself.
I did exactly as Stephen recomends with the "hang rail" top and bottom and it is working great. I should also add that my friend loads the cabinets pretty heavy with all kinds of equipment, shampoo, etc. And they hold up well bouncing down the road.
I really appreciate the feedback from y'all. Between the constant vibration of a mobile rig and the long time experiece with multiple systems of cabinet joinery I feel a lot better about using the Kreg system. Steven's suggestion for the mounting nailers could be where the others had experienced more of their failures. I had already planned on using solid wood for the mounting nailers it could have been that the others has used MDF or melamine coated particle board for the nailers. There were no specifics in the conversations but either would make a poor choice for mounts because of their flexability and poor tearout. They are decent materials for what they are intended for, but they make poor mounting material.

Once again, thanks for sharing!

Brett
aka brotherbd
i use kreg to build my work bench only with kreg and glue , its very very strong !!!
I have built bed frames and Islands and used the Kreg for most all of the joints. It is only smart to use glue with any joint. You just don't have to get carried away with it.
Kreg joints/cabinets are REALLY strong. Your cabinets are as good as your weakest link. Perhaps some of the "naysayers" are using particle board or MDF which aren't going to hold a joint as well as a plywood cabinet. Or perhaps they are using the wrong screws for those materials...

I completly trust the Kreg joints. Since buying a Kreg jig 2 years ago...I have used it in all but two projects. It is certainly my favorite tool in the shop.
I have built all kinds of cabinets using my kreg Jig. Never any problems. I have heard of issues if you use MDF or other types of particle board and no glue but I always use Cabinet grade plywood and solid wood for face frames and a little glue. If you have concerns about the inside of the cabinet, just use the plugs to cover the holes.
I have built 3 sets drawers and 2 workshop cabinets using kreg jig and have had no issues. You need to use the right type of screws for the type of wood and correct depth setting. If you want to use glue, do it but I didn't and haven't had a problem yet. I am a little rough with my equipment but it keeps on working!

Paul Dawley
I think just the opposite. If you use KREG joinery with glued up joints - it will be the STRONGER and MOST SQUARE thing you have ever seem! Follow the instructions for settings and screw size and you cannot go wrong. If you could get your car on top of it I'm sure it would hold.

You might want to try out GOOGLE SKETCHUP to do the design...
I am on my way to Belize, CA with a load of plywood and tools to build cabinets in a cabana my wife and I started a couple of years ago. I too have never build cabinets but after researching different types of cabinet construction I chose the KREG jig and KREG cabinet instructions for my attempt. After reading different articles in magazines about cabinet construction I feel the KREG jig will suit my needs best. I will be in Belize for the next 5 months and plan to get back to you when I'm finished as to the success or failer of the project. Thanks for all the comments above. They have given me additional confidence before I try my skills.
Eldon

Reply to Discussion

RSS

Need Help?

For Technical Support, please call 800-447-8638 or send a message. Reps are available Monday through Friday from 8am to 5pm CST. 

Videos

  • Add Videos
  • View All

Forum

Jig settings for 2 ¾ x 1 ½ boards with 30 degree miters?

I making a hex ring out of 2x4s ripped to 2 ¾ inches wide with 30 degree miters.  What setting on the Jig should I used? 1 ½ is too much.  Thanks.Continue

Started by Patrick Halinski in Kreg Jig® Operation Dec 30, 2023.

40mm Cup Hinge Jig Question

Hi All.....I have the 35mm Kreg Jig hinge drill guide. The guide is great for 35mm Hinge Cups, but I have a speciality 40MM hinge cup to drill.Has anyone adapted the Kreg guide to work with 40mm Forsner drill bits? Or have a guide that works…Continue

Started by Ed Anderson in Beginners' Zone Oct 3, 2023.

Product Reviews

New Kreg 720Pro

I saw the video Kreg put out for this new jig and had high hopes for it.

I purchased one today and am very disappointed with it.

First the docking station is extremely cheap. The plastic is pathetic. A Lego has more…

Continue

Posted by Duke Leon on February 15, 2021 at 9:00pm

Not Pleased With Pocket Hole Construction

Several months ago, I purchased the Kreg K4MS so that I could build the Lego Table as outlined on the companion "buildsomething" web site which exclusively uses pocket hole construction.  I have considerable experience with conventional…

Continue

Posted by Robert Ringel on September 17, 2020 at 1:48pm — 9 Comments

© 2024   Created by KregRep.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Privacy Policy  |  Terms of Service

_