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Hi all!

I picked up some very heavy, custom kitchen cabinets at a reuse center.

My thought was to just put some face frames on them (I like inset doors), because face frame construction isn't hard for me anymore.

I took the doors off, only to find that despite the unfinished wood on the sides and back of the cabinet, the doors and inside of the cabinets are mdf!   Really, the sides even have bare screws in them, given they were installed with those sides hidden.  Threw me for a loop!

So, my question is this:

How many pocket holes would be recommended to drill to attach the face frame (36 x 24) in 3/4" MDF?  I'm concerned that with even exposed, full wrap inset hinges that can definitely hold the doors, the face frame might pull away from the cabinet.

Thank you for your advice,

Christine

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Drill a hole 6" in from each end, and roughly every 6". With MDF, you'll want to be careful about using a low clutch setting so that you don't tear out the hole. I'd also suggest glueing up the front edge, just to add a little bit of hold.

I use plywood for any cabinets I built, but I had some custom-made cabinets built for my bathroom (don't ask) and they are built with veneer MDF. They use euro-style hinges into the MDF, no face frame, and are solid.

Even with MDF, the connections will be pretty solid; you should be fine.

By gluing the front edge, you mean the MDF (which at the moment has the veneer over it) to the face frame?

The boxes I've made myself are plywood.  This is my first experience trying to deal with MDF.  The dust is incredible.  Ick.

Thx.

Yes, dusty, heavy, and not particularly strong.

Yes, I was thinking glue on the front of the MDF.However, it's likely just glued-on veneer tape, so not much benefit. Mind you, it won't hurt either.

I'm not adverse to peeling it off. 

I'll see how attached it is.

Thanks again.

Not much holding power with screws in MDF.

Alternate construction:

A. Spline joinery:  Route a 1/4" wide by 3/8" deep groove in the edge of the MDF and a matching groove in the face frame---

install a "spline" and glue-in-place.

The method will result in a much larger glued surface area.

B. Dowel pins.

Alternate: Biscuits of a modified form, it sounds to me? 

Can't at this point.  I haven't taught myself how to use my 3 routers yet and don't want to start on this.  I did too nice a job on my face frames!

I'll be fussing with this probably tomorrow.  I have the day to either mess it up or make it work!

The veneer/laminate strip on the edge can be removed.

Start with a sharp stiff blade tool---knife, or the like, to get the strip lifted, and peel away.

Finish smooth with a scraper.

(NOTE: sanding may round the corners).



Christine Freeman said:

I'm not adverse to peeling it off. 

I'll see how attached it is.

Thanks again.

That was my thought.  Thanks.

A "sharp" wood working chisel, is a very useful tool.

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