Kreg Owners' Community

Any suggestions on cutting plywood (Circular Saw) straight when the edges aren't? If I use a straight edge guide and the edges aren't straight, how do I find another straight line to refer it to? I am a beginner and I am enjoying my new hobby. I just want to learn the tricks of the trade to make my projects worthwhile. The detail work (straight boards) are so important and I am lacking in this ability.

BTW- I only have a small Craftsman Jobsite Table saw, and this isn't fit to cut large pieces of Ply.

I appreciate this site and everyone that is so helpful.

Views: 2532

Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

Carpenters/framing square

 

combination square

Rafter square

Cabinet makers square

Adjustable angle square

Mike,

In addition to all this really good advice, I just want to add one thing.

"If I don't have any square corners, Is there a way to square?" This was your question. Remember your Geometry class and the 3, 4, 5 rule. Use any units of 3, 4, and 5 on the sides of a triangle will create a 90 degree angle. Needless to say the more carefully you measure the more accurate it will be, but sometimes this can be useful when working with a sheet of plywood that has been whacked up and you need to start over to get a square corner.

I would just clamp the straight edge guide on the plywood and make a cut.  Then I would use a combination square and place the long side on the freshly cut side and mark your next cut.  Once you have the cut marked I would flip the combiation sqaure around so the short side is on the fresh cut side and this will allow you to mark a longer cut line.  Then finally I would clamp down the straight edge guide and do the final cut and you should have a 90 degree angle.  Then you could do the rest of the corners and you should have a 4 90 degree corners.

 

 

They also sell the Universal Edge Guide to do repeated rips (using the straight edge on the board), but I'll be honest and say that it makes me nervous since the saw could theoretically veer toward the uncut edge. This was the issue I had with my homemade straight edge. 

--------------------------------------------------------

ken, the ueg  comes with a secondary guide device on the sawbase. We call it the FIN.

Even if you try you can't move the saw from the cut line.

the FIN is a safety device and prevents kickbacks the same time.

If you have a true straight edge ( All panels are straight but not square) there is no reason to use long tracks of even lift the panel to the table.

here is me cutting 3/4" ply with the UEG.

Enjoy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bFziH_ymiOM

ycf dino

eurekazone.

I've got several of these clamps, from 24" to 100" that work very well. I can also use some of the shorter ones as temporary fences when the situation arises. Especially on my bandsaw where the stock fence is to tall to get me a narrow cut.

Clamp guides

Good job avoiding cutting full sheets on the table saw. I don't consider that a safe operation on a full size saw (sans serious infeed, outfeed and side support) much less on a table top.

I would say the contrary the UEW it has a rival knife behind the blade to minimize kickback. The Uew looks a lot like John Schaben  homemade jig .

I used the wrong name the UEG .  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bFziH_ymiOM  Watch the video there is a rival knife behind the blade.



Gary roofner said:

I used the wrong name the UEG .  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bFziH_ymiOM  Watch the video there is a rival knife behind the blade.

Hi Gary,

Looks like a riving knife but is much closer to a TS spliter.

Riving knifes flex and they become useless after few bumps.

The FIN is study and  eliminates kickbacks.

The same time works like a  secondary guide.

holds  the cut piece and don't allow the edge guide to move even if you try...

Believe it or not...if you have a straight edge...the cut is better than any tracksaw system.

Aluminum extrusions are straight but is very well known that many people are using the straight edge of the panels to align the guides.

here is the FIN at work.

and  a new design of patented inserts....with a $5.00 old blade.

The first video shows the FIn and the other shows the antisplintering insert.

enjoy.

http://tracksawforum.com/showthread.php?p=32073#post32073

ycf dino

eurekazone

Reply to Discussion

RSS

Need Help?

For Technical Support, please call 800-447-8638 or send a message. Reps are available Monday through Friday from 8am to 5pm CST. 

Videos

  • Add Videos
  • View All

Forum

Jig settings for 2 ¾ x 1 ½ boards with 30 degree miters?

I making a hex ring out of 2x4s ripped to 2 ¾ inches wide with 30 degree miters.  What setting on the Jig should I used? 1 ½ is too much.  Thanks.Continue

Started by Patrick Halinski in Kreg Jig® Operation Dec 30, 2023.

40mm Cup Hinge Jig Question

Hi All.....I have the 35mm Kreg Jig hinge drill guide. The guide is great for 35mm Hinge Cups, but I have a speciality 40MM hinge cup to drill.Has anyone adapted the Kreg guide to work with 40mm Forsner drill bits? Or have a guide that works…Continue

Started by Ed Anderson in Beginners' Zone Oct 3, 2023.

Product Reviews

New Kreg 720Pro

I saw the video Kreg put out for this new jig and had high hopes for it.

I purchased one today and am very disappointed with it.

First the docking station is extremely cheap. The plastic is pathetic. A Lego has more…

Continue

Posted by Duke Leon on February 15, 2021 at 9:00pm

Not Pleased With Pocket Hole Construction

Several months ago, I purchased the Kreg K4MS so that I could build the Lego Table as outlined on the companion "buildsomething" web site which exclusively uses pocket hole construction.  I have considerable experience with conventional…

Continue

Posted by Robert Ringel on September 17, 2020 at 1:48pm — 9 Comments

© 2024   Created by KregRep.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Privacy Policy  |  Terms of Service

_