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I need to restore the top of my kitchen table. The polyurethan has become scratched, although not down to the wood. It did a great job and now it's time to sand it lightly and put down two fresh coats.

I'm thinking 220 grit initially with a final pass using very fine steel wool.

What type of sandpaper won't load up?

Is there a better sequence than 200 and steel wool?

Thanks!

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I would use 300-400 grit for starters and go from there, I use 3M paper from lowes in a sheet for those grits.  In an orbital I prefer Freud Diablo paper.  As far as gumming up, use some mineral spirits on your paper and that will mediate the loading and also the heating up of the poly.  Use a scrap block of wood and wrap your paper with it, this will also flatten the surface of the old finish and use the same technique in between coats on the new one.


Thanks! That is exactly the advice I was hoping for. I'm a rookie, but still appreciate the differences in grit types and favor 3M products.
justin waldron said:

I would use 300-400 grit for starters and go from there, I use 3M paper from lowes in a sheet for those grits.  In an orbital I prefer Freud Diablo paper.  As far as gumming up, use some mineral spirits on your paper and that will mediate the loading and also the heating up of the poly.  Use a scrap block of wood and wrap your paper with it, this will also flatten the surface of the old finish and use the same technique in between coats on the new one.

Let me know if you have any other questions, good luck and let me know how it finishes for you!
 
Pete Flynn said
 Thanks! That is exactly the advice I was hoping for. I'm a rookie, but still appreciate the differences in grit types and favor 3M products.
justin waldron said:

I would use 300-400 grit for starters and go from there, I use 3M paper from lowes in a sheet for those grits.  In an orbital I prefer Freud Diablo paper.  As far as gumming up, use some mineral spirits on your paper and that will mediate the loading and also the heating up of the poly.  Use a scrap block of wood and wrap your paper with it, this will also flatten the surface of the old finish and use the same technique in between coats on the new one.

Refinishing:

Use a coarse 60-80 grit for rapid removal, then proceed to a med 100 grit, than to a fine 220 grit, then to an extra fine 320 grit.

ROS (random orbital sander) with "variable speed", is the way to go.

It's essential to go with the "slower speed".

Keep the tool moving, in the grain direction.

VAC up or remove the sanding dust, as you progress thru the sanding process.

A "high speed"  will result in overheating the surface material, resulting in the finish material beading up---

the particles soften, then harden, and ball-up and will cause surface blems.

Residue buildup will cause blems and scratches in the finish.

Clean the sanding medium, such as with a gum eraser, to clean the sandpaper, as you progress along.

Keep the sand paper clean.

If it gums up, clean it off---if you can't get it clean, throw it away and start with a fresh sheet.

Surface preparation is key to a quality surface finish.

Pete,

There's different types of sandpaper, that you might want to peruse.

Aluminum Oxide, 

Silicon Carbide, and 

Garnet.

Each has their benefits.

Pete, 

The following is in reponse your inquiry---"What type of sandpaper won't load up?"

All sandpapers load up.

Clean it frequently as you progress along, using a sanding belt cleaner.

Its like a giant gun eraser.

A card scraper is an excellent tool for smoothening a surface. 

A card scraper cuts-off the micro wood fibers, left behind during sanding, and will a provide a glass-like smooth surface.

 

 

Thanks everyone. I will be sanding with a block, gently, as I only intend to degrade the coat of finish and not cut into the stained surface below. I will pursue the 100, 200, 320 progression.

Pete

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